You have your hot end fan wired where your part cooling fan is supposed to be (that's the fan that responds to M106). You also have part cooling turned off for at least the first layer of your prints (which is something between fine and desirable if the machine is wired correctly). If there's only one fan connector on your board, the hot end fan is probably supposed to be wired in parallel withby IMBoring25 - General
There's a setting in Advanced Infill for Only infill where needed. Is that checked?by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
Stock extruder and hot end? Is your hot end fan running 100% of the time?by IMBoring25 - Printing
At 65 you may be over glass transition for your PLA, which would be counterproductive. How warm is the room? Are you giving the part some time to cool before you remove it from the bed? Are you sure it's PLA?by IMBoring25 - Printing
Keep looking. Layer changes will have an explicit Z move. That's a retraction and repositioning move within a layer, not a layer change.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
Do you have a minimum layer time set in your cooling settings?by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
What size font, what size nozzle, and what layer height are you using? There are practical limits to how fine a detail you can make, especially with larger nozzles and bigger layer heights. As intricate as this sounds you might be better off finding someone with a resin-based printer.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
If the B&M locations that are starting to sell printers have success, it will start to make sense for them to also stock in the stores a limited range of the most common filaments for those machines as the user base expands.by IMBoring25 - General
There are a lot of industries that use fractional inches, but in aircraft we use primarily decimal inches (most commonly to three decimal places), so base-ten imperial isn't impossible. It's not a big deal to me either way. Develop the model in the system of units that is convenient for the application (which for a UK-based development would usually be metric) and export the STL in the units exby IMBoring25 - General
For starters, what I think you're wanting is to rotate an object about an axis other than Z...And I stand to be corrected but I don't believe Slic3r has that native functionality. You can rotate the STL in, for example, netfabb, but from within Slic3r I don't see any option to do so.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
All will depend on your specific machine configuration (i.e. thermistor accuracy) and the filament you're using. Not all filaments are created equal. Some suggest starting at a high temperature and lowering it until the results are bad, then going back up. My preference is to start at a temperature that I can smoothly extrude material by hand and raise it until I like the results while printinby IMBoring25 - Printing
Unless you already have the ability to print some highly-improvised custom make-it-work plastics, it's a long shot. You could try calculating how much you'd have to shrink the frame to make the 430mm rods reach, but looking at mine, you'd probably wind up with a very limited build area in Y because the bed insulator would hit the frame triangles (and with the standard plastics I'd expect you'd aby IMBoring25 - Reprappers
Check how far it moves when you manually jog each axis. The steps per mm in your firmware are probably wrong.by IMBoring25 - Printing
If those are the settings they look like, they're the presets for how far and how fast to extrude or retract filament when you hit the buttons to manually extrude or retract filament. They're not used during printing.by IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics
What bed material are you using? My efforts were on clean Kapton tape over glass.by IMBoring25 - Printing
Without support material, that's a tough one. If you lack support capability you might be better off printing it as a cylinder with the diameter being the major axis diameter or as a half-depth thread and then go in with a die of the appropriate thread.by IMBoring25 - Printing
I feel like a broken record lately telling people that a 12V PCB with aluminum and glass over it is likely to have a tough time making 110 and they may not need more than 75 for small parts or 85 for large ones, especially if the room is warm, but that's moving slowly enough you probably really do have a problem with your electronics or a loose connection.by IMBoring25 - Printing
Once a power supply is adequate, a more powerful one at the same voltage will not deliver any more power to a given circuit. It's probably not wrong. Check power supply voltage. Other than that, without changing your hardware, you may not be able to get 110, but you may not need to either. I've had good results on ABS even with large parts with an 85C bed in a room heated to 25C.by IMBoring25 - Printing
If you hit Save on the Filament Settings page it reverts to the previously-set temperatures, right? I had that problem and I don't remember what I did to fix it. I have been upgrading to the latest Slic3r as it's released. Until you figure it out you can open the output G-code with a text editor and change the M104 and M109 commands.by IMBoring25 - General
OK, those temperatures are better in range for ABS but you can still try lower temps and slower speeds for the bridges. You can see how low your material will easily extrude by turning off the motors and turning the extruder by hand as you adjust the temperature. Then you can see how print quality is affected. You also have the option of configuring support material but that will involve someby IMBoring25 - Printing
It depends (just what you wanted to hear, right?). Sorry for leaving the exchange rate up to you... Considering $30/kg to be about the going rate for non-proprietary PLA or ABS filament (assuming the properties of those materials are suitable for your application), a 100%-filled 2x.5x.5 inch rectangular prism (a half-cubic inch of material) would have about $0.25 of material in it. As far as tby IMBoring25 - General
Push one of the endstops and send the command again. Did it change?by IMBoring25 - General
In Marlin, if that's what you're running, M119 returns the state of the end stops. Are they all the same? Do they change when you actuate them? Will the motors turn both ways when the endstop is actuated?by IMBoring25 - General
Your struggles there are bridges (where a layer of material spans what was a gap between two sections of material in the previous layer) and overhangs (where the material slopes out over air on subsequent layers) and there's a lot of material on them if you search. For starters, though, 110 is far too much bed temp for PLA (for a PLA part that size I'd probably use 45 and I've never seen the neeby IMBoring25 - Printing
Most versions of the RepRap plastic parts are designed specifically to be reasonably easy to print on any 3D printer with an adequate build volume, without support material. Some kits involve some parts that are too large for the build volume of a Replicator Mini (power supply cover being one of them) and many involve several parts big enough that they would have to be printed one at a time if uby IMBoring25 - Reprappers
The material itself doesn't have to creep up into the heat break. If the heat works its way into the heat break the clean filament in the heat break will become melted mess, as you eloquently put it. Make sure the hot end fan runs at all times and you're getting good airflow over the cold end or cooling block, whichever your configuration has.by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
Without reference to Slic3r in front of me at the moment I can only say the beta includes a function called "Modifiers" that is reasonably well documented. I don't remember off the top of my head if the split function would do what you want. If it would that would be easier. Absolute dimensioning sends the tool head to a coordinate in the same 3D coordinate system every time. Relative positioby IMBoring25 - Printing
The recommendation I've seen is to limit PLA-based printers to 45, and I'll be using 40-45 as the target for mine when the enclosure is done, even if I eventually get a reason to disassemble it enough to put it back together with all ABS, as the electronics are, after all, in the same environment. My experience has been heating the room to as little as around 25 dramatically reduces ABS warping.by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
If that output was produced while your bed LED was on your current configuration is not capable of stabilizing at your 110 degree bed setpoint with your current settings and the temperature in your room. I'm getting good ABS adhesion on clean Kapton even with large footprint parts and no brim at 85 when I heat the room to around 25. Alternatives would be checking your bed power, adding heat refby IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics