QuoteSatorCodex QuoteDust real arduinos don’t have ch340 they use a ATmega16U2 as a serial over usb converter Only china clones use ch340 But I find it difficult to believe mac is having such issues.. Linux drivers for ch340 are good, and Mac was/is lunux under the hood. One solution might be to simply bypass the ch340... get yourself a usb/serial board (making sure its Ftdi, silabs, cp2102by GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
Ah the curse of the CH340, I haven't been able to get it working at all and had to dig out my old windows laptop for CH340 devices.by GRAYWOLF - General
I use Printbite with gluestick in the uk. ooznest (uk) sell replacement glass but what i noticed with pla and glue stick is that if you leave it a few hours, the glue set and the models just falls off without assistance.by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteRetrotrigger Nice! i was thinking about doing the same thing. but i would replace most of the frame with black aluminium extrusions ( based on a mod for the MKII : ) so all i would need is the electronics and the y cariage. i was even thinking about buying the upgrade kit from prusa research and completing it from there that way you would have almost the same result , why would i considerby GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
The only MKII I know of is the Joseph Prusa official MKII. The frame is pretty much the same as the MKI and I do believe that the carriage is also the same.by GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteRGN01 Have a look at my upgrade parts for my Prusa i3 Steel inspired printer The X-motor sits on a carriage on extended X bars. Richard Thanks, didn't think of springs.by GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteSatorCodex If you still have problems. Just print from the memory card. Easy and hassle free. And no problems fit pc going down for whatever reason, during printing. Or.. go buy a Mac. Unless he deleted everything on the memory card and lost all the files! I had to dig out my old wintop because I cant get the CH340 driver to work on my mac and I have 3 devices that need to use the driby GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
I had a thought about separating the X the mounting points from the X-axis mount in order to move the motor out to tension the belt instead of having a separate tensioner on the other end or on the carriage. Is this a viable idea or has this already been tried?by GRAYWOLF - Prusa i3 and variants
Go Back to PLA, ABS is a pain. A cardboard box won't work but a wood box will. Try ABS juice on the Kapton tape Prevent any moving air fro reaching the print.by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Have you enabled it in the firmware before up loading the firmware? I think you need to remove the # on the opproate line to enable it.by GRAYWOLF - Firmware - Marlin
Why is there 2 discussions about the same issue?by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Check your z-offset value. Every so often I have to reset mine (strange behaviour, i know)by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteJamesK Ye gods, the idea of that thing swinging around the kitchen with a laser attached is terrifying But the pets will enjoy it. I was wondering about wobble as it just didn't look secure enough to be accurate, but the prints show a different story.by GRAYWOLF - General
It sound's like you do not know how the arduino and ide communicate. Spend some time reading up on the arduino and you will realise how easy it is to modify and upload new versions of marlin.by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
QuoteAintGotNoCents Hi, I've been looking around and wanted to know if there were any completed assembly files out there for public use. I was hoping to tinker with some design ideas but don't have a lot of time to build a complete Prusa I3 in Solidworks. Any help would be appreciated, thank you! Yes, on thingiverse.by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
QuoteDragonFire I must admit, LSS kit looks easier to assemble (no soldering required). The Hat for the Fabscan Pi has to have the through hole components soldered, and not all of the wires are pre-tinned. That's with the Watterott kits. The Fabscan Pi is more complex to build, but in theory, being enclosed and better camera, I should get better accuracy. It is also maybe easier to modify the deby GRAYWOLF - 3D Scanners, Book Scanners, and Optics
You did calibrate the z-offset correctly, did you?by GRAYWOLF - General
Bit late, to save damaging the connector, use a small flat blade screwdriver to push in the pin that holds the contact in place. Also check the z- endstop, that could be causing issues like mine did the other day.by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteTobias85 Thanks! I thought, the fan should start after the hot end temperature is higher than 50°C. At least it is like that for the makerbot Gen 2 I know. I will figure that out. Depends, I know mine is configured to be controlled via pwm but I have seen configs that have the driver electronics and extruder fan permanently connected to supply but these are mostly duel hotend machines.by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
As discussed in the mini-series "Mars" a behind the scenes program on Elon's plan. Radiation shielding can be avoided by moving underground but once an accident happened causing serious damage, H&S and money arguments would result in an end to the program.by GRAYWOLF - General
The difference between the box and the arm is that it doesn't take much to alter the box to print ABS whereas the whole of the arm printer will need to be enclosed to print ABS.by GRAYWOLF - CoreXY Machines
Quoteo_lampe I've set my dvd steppers to 106.67 steps/mm. The rest is in the config file attached. I don't remember, which PWM pin I've chosen, but I rerouted the D9 fan output to one of the 5V servo pins. Thanksby GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
QuoteVDX ... I'm adapting my lasers to any sort of CNC-controller (industrial/comercial types too) not by changing the driver software, but by hooking the driver to the X/Y-clock-pins to generate "speed-independant" pulses. Then only a single pin for "LASER ON" and "-OFF" hast to be set from the software, what's mostly given. With the RepRap-drivers it's even simpler, as you already have the clby GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
I am building one of these DVD drive based laser engravers but want to use ramps +lcd instead of the Arduino CNC shield+grbl firmware. Can anyone point me to the settings needed to be adjusted in ramps, please? I already have the LCD+sdcard enabled just need the other settings, please?by GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
Your planning something like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6EtJfaiQ9H0by GRAYWOLF - CoreXY Machines
QuoteSteveRoy I have been using the hexagon hotend on my Prusa i3 builds. Comes in 1.75mm and .4 nozzle How? Mine just clogs up and jams all the time. What PLA and what setting do you use?by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
PVA glue stick works great, just started using it.by GRAYWOLF - Printing
I got my pair and did the laser test,(point laser directly at glasses while not wearing them) block the laser leaving a bright red light.by GRAYWOLF - Laser Cutter Working Group
If you only have mins fitted then only the mins should be triggered. If both min and max is triggered then the printer is confused. Recheck your wiring and recheck your firmware.by GRAYWOLF - General
Who knows but it would be great to bring it back. I liked the "Build a Printer section. Maybe if someone could persuade Angus from Makers Muse or Thomas to get involved there could be hope.by GRAYWOLF - RepRap magazine