QuoteDADIY Check git hub - they have the 12xx and 13xx file names - Solved it now, for some reason I was sent the wrong github download Got the correct files now. Thank you Dadiy for your help.by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
I did RFTM but none of the files on the repo have any damn number starting in 12 or 13 and I could not find the top idler parts hence why I asked. this is what I got from the repo! So where is all this files then? Contents 1 Overview 2 General notes 3 Printing parts for Fisher 4 Get support 5 Tool List 5.1 Required 5.2 For adjusting plastic parts, if necessary 5.3 Nice to have, but not necessarby GRAYWOLF - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis 3 carriages 1 effector (may be more than one part depending on effector) 3 axis tops 3 idler holders 3 bed mounts 12 motor mounts 1 extruder (depends on extruder) What parts are they as the parts are all numbered and not named ?by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
So just managed to get my I3 working again after its burnout last year and looking at building a Fisher Delta, but I am massively confused. What parts do I need to print? Downloaded the latest parts from github but they seam to be missing parts. Can anyone help?by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
Use a steal box and put intumescent door seals around the opening panels and use fire rated sealent compounds for cable entries. If you have a spare $3K get a "racking extinguisher" and mount in the top of the box above the printer. http://www.redetec.co.uk/products/redetec-with-point-detection This gives you about a 30minute fire resistance enclosure (minimum) which is more then enough time forby GRAYWOLF - General
Clear the glass plate, cover in a clean layer of Kapton tape. Calibrate using the A4 printer paper method. Add a layer of ABS juice and abs will stick. Print using "Raft" option. Do not ignore what people are asking and suggesting. We have all been through this and know what solved it in our own printers.by GRAYWOLF - Printing
In my case, its only there to act as an expensive rectifier to prevent damage to the printer.by GRAYWOLF - General
Have you tried rotating the motor connection on the ramps so that they are the other way around? Most of the problems are because of connection being wrong.by GRAYWOLF - General
Just found another in my shed this one is a series 300 and is "online" Just hope that it does have the oomph for the job and the series 1000 is super heavy and expensive to refurbish.by GRAYWOLF - General
One, this is highly suicidel what your trying and is more likly to cause a fire! Two, it's all written n the cover!by GRAYWOLF - General
Ok, I having a feeling that its there site thats up the fritz.by GRAYWOLF - General
RCD and RCBO's can not be used and they work on over current detection. Quotewes1007 Use an Arduino a transistor and a relay. Smoke detector provides a signal to the Arduino which then triggers a transistor to turn a NC relay off. code it so that once the smoke detector is triggered you either press a button to reset or you just reset the arduino. Be careful with smoke detectors. There are 2by GRAYWOLF - General
Its the old APC Su1000 670watt 230 ups. Try this link http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=su1000inet&ISOCountryCode=GB But I suspect that it will fail.by GRAYWOLF - General
I have one of theese that needs new batteries (i got it for free) http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=su1000inet&ISOCountryCode=GB&tab=documentation I have been reading that an "On-line_ ups is needed on a generator for computers and printers. is this one suitable?by GRAYWOLF - General
Just be grateful that they didn't use Z1, Z2 and Z3! While it would have made more sense, it could be a bit more confusing during assembly.by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
Why does the carriage use 1 long and one normal bearing?by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
While looking for supplies for tin (not solder or tinned) wire I came across the melting point temp of tin being around 200 C. This go me thinking, if the normal printer can print ABS the we should be able to extrude and print tin of a normal printer! Anyone willing to check this out and try?by GRAYWOLF - General
Check your wiring again its possible that something isn't correct. What software are you using and have you tried other software?by GRAYWOLF - General
Quotethetazzbot QuoteGRAYWOLF I have built and melted a Prusa I3 so have some experance, but need a second to fix the I3 scrap it. use the rods to build something else, like a smartrap core that's my current project. Here's my transition: Build Prusa i3 with acrylic frame. Fight with it for three months Order parts for Mini Kossel Build it over a couple of weeks, spare time project Print,by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
I have built and melted a Prusa I3 so have some experance, but need a second to fix the I3by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
I have a Pruisa i3 in several parts after its little burnout incident and was looking for a delta to replace it and have some questions. Compared to the I3 how easy the Fisher to build? How easy is it to calibrate compared to the i3? Doe's it have a display and card reader like the i3? If not, can they be added?by GRAYWOLF - Fisher
Quotevreihen Windows 10 would be a downgrade for those of us who don't use Microsoft products..... And for some that do!by GRAYWOLF - General
No, but Print&Scan shops would be wonderfullby GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteDust GREYWOLF, you are 100% wrong! X homes correctly, so cannot be miss wired. Min endstops are at back and left of a standard I3 type machine. Where the Y moves the bed. This is complealy independant of where the motor is. Yes you are correct, serves me rights for tyring to do to many things at the same time. Move the y-endstop closer to the front and try again, the beds front left cornby GRAYWOLF - General
You have the X and y endstops connected to the wrong imputs. The bed should home to the front away from the motor! on top of the motor Failing that, the endstop is slipping.by GRAYWOLF - General
QuoteKurzaa I agree with Olaf, the idea of a weekend workshop sounds a lot better. A weekend! Took me the equivilent of two weekends to assemble my i3! QuoteKurzaa I would think it might be better to start with an introduction to 3D printing rather than jumping right into the build. Day one starts with downloading a pre-determined model from thingiverse and loading it into some design software tby GRAYWOLF - General
Quotedave3d As I mentioned in another thread, I have installed a smoke detector that cuts the power to the printer. It has been in use for about a year. It is based on an Aico Ei141 ionisation type smoke alarm with an integral Ei128R base unit that houses a switching relay. Other manufacturers should make them with an integral relay. Because it is momentary contact, an external latching relay isby GRAYWOLF - Reprappers
Quotethe_digital_dentist You can always wrap it with aluminium foil before inserting it into the block... but foil is also conductive!by GRAYWOLF - General
I too have just had a fire on my Prusa i3 and ordered the same unit from ebay! Thinking of adding an SSD to kill the 12 lines in a fire but working out the battery backup is literally giving me a headache (or its the alcohol i'm drinking!)by GRAYWOLF - Reprappers