I only used a host program for my first axis movements. After that I have been printing with SD cards and Octoprint so this isn't my forte. That being said you need to be concerned with primarily two things: 1) Make sure the baud rate is the same of that in your firmware. 2)Make sure your computer recognizes the printer. Both of these options are under the config menu in the host. To change bby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Does it refuse to move after you home the axis? When you home the axis does it move in the correct direction?by gmckee - General
Thermal runaway is triggered by the hotend or bed not heating up in a given time interval. This is meant to be a precaution against thermistors that fall out of their holes. If the heaters cannot detect a temperature change they will keep on heating up until thing start to melt and catch everything on fire. So, check your thermistors and heaters. Make sure they are wired correctly and that tempeby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
If the Y axis is making a grinding noise then it has most likely reached the ends of the print area. The stepper motor is trying to push the axis further than it can go causing missed steps. You need to home the axis before manual control. The only way the motor of the extruder will move when you instruct a movment to the X axis is a incorrectly wired printer or incorrect firmware. Download theby gmckee - Reprappers
Take a look at Thomas Sanladerer's youtube page. He has a video on basic firmware configuration you can use to set the correct values for your printer.by gmckee - Reprappers
They probably need to be lubricated with some oil or grease. You may be able to get a little more torque with the drv8825 drivers.by gmckee - General
Having dual Z motors requires more current than a normal axis as you have two motors and they are not only positioning systems but have to cope with the effects of gravity. That being said first make sure that you have all of the jumper pins plugged in underneath the stepper drivers. Then try to boost the current using the pot on the stepper driver. If that still doesn't fix the problem your feedby gmckee - General
The host does not have anyway to measure if a signal is passing through a stepper driver to a motor or if components are changed in this instance. It also is very unlikely that all MOSFETs were fried in one go. First thing to do would be to unplug the stepper driver from X axis. If the heaters begin to work fine once again then it is related to the driver/driver socket. Check to make sure therby gmckee - Reprappers
It sounds like you have two separate issues. For the gear not grabbing you may need to increase the tension of the idler pushing against your gear. This is most likely done by tightening the screw(s) adjacent to your drive gear. Furthermore the teeth on the drive gear may be too worn and not sharp enough to grab onto filament. Buy a new drive gear or clean the gear of plastic build up. The skippby gmckee - General
Did the company provide you with the firmware? Or did they say it is already on the board? If it is already flashed you should be able to plug the printer in and the lcd will power up and display text. If it does not you need to download Marlin and set it up with this guide. Next you need a slicer to take a 3d model and generate a tool path for the motors to follow. I prefer Cura. This createsby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
While removing my 600g extruder assembly from the X carriage the other day I had a thought. Would it be possible to remove the extruder as is from the carriage, mount it on the frame, and convert it to bowden. I currently have a E3D lite6 hotend and only print with regular PLA and ABS. My thought was to take a fitting and put either in a printed adapter that takes the place of a hotend in the grby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
What errors are you getting? Give a fresh download a try and set it up with Firmware Guide?by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you trthink uploadin the Ramps Test Code? This will run all your motors and heaters to see any issues. Before you plug it in make sure that you have the 3 jumpers underneath the stepper drivers. Turn on the board and see if the motors move. If they do not use a NON CONDUCTIVE screwdriver to tune the drivers. See videos on how to do this. The test code also turns on and off the heaters. Ifby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
You would need to wire another driver using spare aux pins on the arduino. That would involve creating amother shield or external board. Hardware would involve another hotend at the expense of print volume.by gmckee - Reprappers
I haven't heard of those specific problems but it sounds to be the Arduino. Look at getting a new one.by gmckee - Reprappers
Does your auto bed leveling include a servo on an arm? Actuation of the servo may be drawing to much current from the 5v regulator on the arduino. The LCD also takes power from said regulator. Drawing too much current for long enough will probably reset the lcd.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
It sounds like you have a stepper driver issue. Did you adjust the voltage of the drivers? Are there any bridged solder joints?by gmckee - General
PLA curls easily by nature. I have a 80mm fan at the back of my printer blowing over the whole part that keeps the delamination down. If the corners are peeling of the bed give unscented aqua net hairspray a try with a bed at 60c. I haven't had any prints not stick since may when I got the hairspray.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Most printers run a 12v with a few using 24v, yes that is a heated bed.by gmckee - Reprappers
First know ABS most be printed on a heated bed. If the printer doesn't have one you will be limited to PLA. You could add a heated bed but may need a larger power supply, different controller, other hardware. Avoid no name plastic. People have had good luck with Esun and Hatchbox. They run about $25 USD per kilo. Higher quality can be upwards of $50 a kilo.by gmckee - Reprappers
1 75 is the most common filament today. It has many advantages over 3mm and vice versa. It comes down to what your extruder is set up for. I have been using PLA from hatchbox that I purchased on amazon. ABS is a little tougher and probably better for your purposes. The printer appears to be a Prusa i2. See that forum for for more specialized help.by gmckee - Reprappers
The Prusa i3 runs 2 motors in parallel so I don't see why 4 could be a problem. You will have to use drv8825 drivers with plenty of cooling for 4 steppers and make sure you get motor that don't draw to many amps. Why don't you just use a single powerful motor with a belt?by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Also forgot to add Prusa Calculator for steps per mmby gmckee - Reprappers
That looks to be genuine according to the E3d distribution page It should be a drop in replacement if you r extruder has a traditional mount where the hotend is secured with 2 screws. The assembly is mostly the same as the E3d V6 so you can use one of Tom's guides. Also be aware that the lite is made for PLA and ABS filament and is only able to use 1.75mm filament. Other common filament will worby gmckee - Reprappers
That's awesome! For the hotend I would get a quality one from the start. I bought a knock off j head to start out with. It worked OK until it fell apart mid print. I cannot recommend the E3d lite enough and it is only 35ish USD. A few tips: Don't plug in stuff while the power is on, stuff can break. Use thick wires for heated bed, stuff can melt. Check every part on its own before putting it aby gmckee - Reprappers
QuoteI have altered the pins.h file. and the below config.h file It sounds like the altered pins.h may be the issue. What exactly did you change? You shouldn't have an issue with a standard setup with a Ramps and Prusa i3. Also is there a reason you are running an older version of Marlin? Start with a fresh download of marlin. You could also give repetier firmware a try as they have an online coby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
First off I would try lowering your print temprature. 210c should be as high as you go, I print between 192c and 201c. If that does not help calibrate your extruder with this video. Make sure your steps per mm are correct. on the Z axis. Double check your bed level and Z offset.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
3d printing isn't plug in and play...yet. That being said adding an extra extruder just complicates things. If you want to go the prebuilt or reputable kit route look at Printrbot. The play is $400, and simple metal is $600. If you want to go the reprap route look at the prusa i3. Very large user base, simple construction. Get a kit from a reputable source like Josef Prusa himself or self sourcby gmckee - General