When I leave the hotend on while not printing it stays at a constant temprature. Once I begin a print the temp drops from 195 to 170 and then thermal runaway triggers. I have tried using 210c and it also triggered at about the 3rd layer. I'm using Marlin with standard thermal runaway settings. Printing with 1.75mm white plastic using a j head style hotend.by gmckee - General
Give this video a look. It should help you out.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
Flip the connector around OR change motor inversion for extruder from true to false or false to true.by gmckee - Printing
Those yellow square boxes are the poly fuses on the ramps board that protect electronics.What is happening is your system is drawing too much power through the ramps board which is setting off the fuses. You can replace the fuses with automotive blade type fuses however if your electronics are still drawing more power then the fuses can handle they will continue to break. Make sure your power supby gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
It is very difficult to see but it looks like you don't have springs to support the bed installed. You should have a spring between heated bed and the carriage.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
I agree with Qdeathstar. Confirm steps per mm with the Prusa Calculator.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Is the end stop at the top or bottom of the frame? If is at the bottom change z home direction to -1 and plug in ends top to minimum connector. After you home can you move the axis in host program or lcd?by gmckee - General
If you are running a 12v power supply, wire the heater for 12v. Most PCB heaters can only get to 100c due to manufacturing discrepancies.by gmckee - Printing
I used same firmware settings and double checked using the prusa calculator. I have been using cura as slic3r would export gcode for a while. I'll try old firmware after I hook up the old computer I have it onby gmckee - Printing
I had to up my heated bed wire gauge after I found my plastic wire wrap was melted. Replaced 18GA stranded withe 14 or 16 solid.by gmckee - Safety & Best Practices
Yesterday I updated my firmware to the latest version of Marlin, ran PID on bed and hotend, disaasembled hotend and cleaned it out, and leveled the bed (which I hadn't done for 3 months due to my nylon nuts holding the bed perfectly level). The only setting I changed was z axis feed rate from 1mm/s to 2mm/s. I have attached a picture of my test cube. All other print settings are the the same. picby gmckee - Printing
I would just leave the potentiometers and get yourself a ceramic screwdriver to keep yourself from shorting the driver outby gmckee - Reprappers
Your biggest issue I see here is time. Even if you get the kit with 7 days for assembly after 3 shipping you are going to be hard pressed to get the thing built, firmware figured out, and have it printing perfectly and accurately within that time. There is a steep learning curve to operating a printer and being successful at it. That being said look for an assembled printer that has been tested.by gmckee - General
That kit is by Josef Prusa, the designer and core developer of the Prusa i3. It appears you would get a real E3D v6 meaning you could print most thermoplastics, My Prusa i3 uses threaded rods for the frame of my Prusa which works fine. Most of the issues people have with threaded rods is for the use of them a Z axis motion rods. This is ok as long as they are not bent which is how most Chinese kiby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Go into marlin firmware and enable thermal runaway. This is for if your thermistor comes out of contact with heater and will shut it off if there isn't very much temperature change. I would talk to folgertech and get a new hotend as your heater could be unsafe.by gmckee - Reprappers
For the axis issue try the x stepper on the y axis. Most likely your stepper driver is messed up in some way. If it still doesn't work you may want to run y axis off of the extra extruder driver. For the mintemp error make sure that the wires have continuity. If you have everything selected in the firmware correctly, and the thermistor shows resistance, it is probably a board issue.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
The jumpers go underneath of the stepper drivers to set microstepping drv8825 drivers all three pins jumpered results in 1:32 microstepping. Make sure that the silkscreen on the stepper drivers match that of the megatronics. As for the extruder fans: If you would like it to be on all the time hook it up to the 12v line from power supply. If you want to be able to turn it on and off, or set speeby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Can you elaborate? Attach a picture of your printer and config.h Also check to see that they are correctly plugged into the controller board.by gmckee - Reprappers
$333 is a very tight and oddly specific budget to have a printer with what you are looking for. A low budget is going to result in lower quality prints. That being said: Probably your best bet would be something along the lines of a Delta type machine such as the Kossel mini. It would be difficult to print flexible filaments eith a bowden extruder thoigh. With the budget you have you probably wiby gmckee - General
If you want to get your current values in MarLin send a M503 command to get your steps per mm. Check them with the Prusa Calculator based on printer hardware to see if theu match.by gmckee - Reprappers
QuoteI have another question though. If I calibrated my extruder for 100mm of PLA, then why should I have to increase the flow percentage to get it to fill properly? Before I started having these problems my flow percentage was 100 percent with no problems. When you re-tapped the hobbed bolt you may have lowered the diameter of the hobbed bolt, which in turn lowers the circumference and mm extrudby gmckee - Reprappers
I had the same issue with my Folger tech ramps and arduino. When you power just the arduino from the dc in connector (the round one) do any lights come on? if not it could be a bad 5v regulator which was what was bad on mine, You can confirm this by checking if it powers up correctly running on usb. To correct this you have to remove the 5v regulator and solder a new one on. I would recommend getby gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
You can't save a copy of the firmware already on the board but if you send a M503 command in the gcode terminal of your host program which will read out the values for your printer to put into your config.h This only works with Sprinter and Marlin Firmware. As for opening marlin, when you go into the folder labeled "Marlin". Scroll down to the file labeled "Marlin.ino". It should have the Arduinby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
My extruder bolts to the carriage with 4 standard pitch M4 bolts. I haven't ever seen that type of Carriage before. Also why did you bolt your frame on backwards. The x axis should be oriented in front of the Prusa logo.by gmckee - Reprappers
Yes, the psu power switch or a power strip with power plugged in. There is a good chance it was a bad board. Good luck.by gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
First Rule of diy 3d printers: Never plug anything in or out while the power supply is on. All powering on and off of the printer should be handled on the mains supply to the power supply.Most of us including myself have found this out the hard way and have lost electronics in the process. It is possible that you had a faulty regulator, shorts caused by poor soldering, or other broken componentsby gmckee - RAMPS Electronics
You are correct about wasted material. This will only affect the amount of filament you are left with at the end of a roll is very marginal amount, probably a few cents of material. Bowden extruder Excell at printing at fast speeds due to the lack of mass to move around. Your print quality would remain around the same. Also flexible filament are more difficult to print in a bowden than a direct dby gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
Do the axis home as they should when you click the house icon in repetier?by gmckee - General
You should be able to play around in the pins.h section and change which thermistor corresponds to which hotend.by gmckee - Prusa i3 and variants
The most probable things would be that the current is set to high, or your are trying to draw to many amps. A4988 drivers are only good for about 1a, probably 1.5a with cooling. Otherwise, if your z axis moves .1mm when you tell it to, its not likely firmware but try to lower acceleration and speed. Also check for jumpered solder joints under your ramps to make sure nothing is shorting out.by gmckee - General