QuoteAndrewBCN Quote My understanding of the rails is that they are completely independent.Nope. Two things again: 1) Power supplies with two rails almost always mean they have separate overcurrent protection on each rail, but both rails actually derive their voltage from the same secondary circuit. 2) Old power supplies sometimes have bad regulation of the +12V rail even if you provide a signby wes1007 - General
Quotedc42 Quotewes1007 I had the 650W PSU set up with the one 18A rail running just the Heated bed on my Ramps board and the other Rail ran the hot-end+drivers. Thought that running them on separate Rails would be the same as running them on separate PSUs (which is working fine right now) It's not quite the same thing, because most ATX PSUs have only one feedback loop, so the two 12V and the sinby wes1007 - General
Quotegordonendersby Is the psu thats not giving 12v a pc power supply as well? As they use the 5v line to regulate power. Unless you put a load on the 5v supply it will not supply a good 12v. Gordon QuoteAndrewBCN The motors stuttering probably has nothing to do with the PSU but is caused by not having adjusted the Vref on the stepper drivers. The voltage drop when the heatbed is turned on isby wes1007 - General
Hi guys I'm looking for a geared extruder design that doesnt use a hobbed bolt. I have 2 drive gears and id like to use those if possible. Unless anyone can link me to a guide on creating my own hobbed bolt. Secondly Im having problems with power delivery. Recently just added my 650w power supply to the printer and all the motors stutter. Upon closer inspection the 12v line drops to 9.5v with tby wes1007 - General
So I managed to order some new drivers locally and this topic is now irrelevant. My best bet would have been running the drivers in XY and E making sure i can print 1 layer fine. Then moving on to the print with say X and Z.by wes1007 - General
Go with a delta.I am no pro but a lot of the research i have done points to them being slightly superior in print speed/quality. Wish i had gone that route... Oh well my next one will be a delta. For i3 derivatives I went with a P3Steel. Very solid printer. GOt mine done out of stainless 304by wes1007 - General
Quotecjdj3 QuoteRonN I don't have a printer of my own, but I'm a long time lurker. I'm wondering if the wires from the steppers are wired to the driver board in the wrong order. If you could set things up to do a step then pause and repeat you should see it moving forward in uniform sized steps. If it jerks backwards some times that would be the problem. Putting a cloths pin/clamp on the moviby wes1007 - General
Quoteepicepee I self-sourced my first machine. It was more expensive and harder than getting a kit, but I built exactly the machine I wanted and I learned a ton. It's up to you. This is what i have been doing. My uncle bought a kit which he has been having hassles with. It has made him want to build a new one. He spent a couple days trying to get his kit working fairly well and with my self soby wes1007 - General
Quoteggherbaz I think you are taking the wrong approach, it is better to calibrate everything else first, and then work with extrusion. You might have a perfect line, but once printer is operational the rest of the print is crap because of misalignments in the frame, and all that work goes to the trash can. Mount a pen or pencil in the carriage and a piece of paper in the bed, allow the pen toby wes1007 - General
Quoteiamdarkyoshi Quotewes1007 Im guessing you have one of those melzi boards? I am actually using a printrboard clone. Got it with a 280$ printer. Very cool little board that. Its both a good and a bad thing that its all one piece.by wes1007 - General
Quoteiamdarkyoshi I hope I dont pop my drivers... my entire printer is run off of one board. Granted, I do know how to do surface mount soldering. My drivers never have to do much work, and they are always cooled with a fan. My goal with electronics is to keep temperatures well below their maximum reccomended temps. If it is too hot to touch, it is too hot. What caused the driver to pop anyway?by wes1007 - General
Quotecdru Take anything that you want to print, slice it as you normally would, then look at the g-code. Delete anything after the first layer up until you reach your end gcode. Search for "Z.2" or whatever your first layer or slicing height is to easily find the end of the first layer. This would prolly work. I know Cura has the ability to cut at xx layer. However i know that the printer worksby wes1007 - General
Hi all. Currently in the process of getting my P3Steel up and running. Been a project ive been working on for more than 6 months. about a month ago I blew one of the stepper drivers on the extruder. Unfortunately the drivers are at a heavily inflated price locally so i have ordered some in from china and they have still not arrived. To let me carry on working on the printer id like to carry onby wes1007 - General