I just watched the rest of the video. The guy said there are 2 print heads. The one that prints carbon fiber can also print fiberglassby fatesalign - General
I'm not sure. It might be. It is definitely interesting. I'd be happy to spend upwards of 200 for a nozzle.by fatesalign - General
No it isn't part of the nylon. They are sold separately. Also, they say they put the nylon and then the carbon fiber on top. Here is the video:by fatesalign - General
I will say there is more to it. It prints nylon and then carbon fiber with just one nozzle. But once again, if they could sell their nozzle, everyone would buy one. I also just read on their site that the "magic is in the nozzle" and the filamentby fatesalign - General
Quotegmh39 It looks like they are just creating new filaments doped with the different fibers. Kinda like how the conductive filament is doped with carbon black to make it conductive. They are also probably not using a a nozzle made from an atypical material so that they fibers do not wear down the interior or enlarge the hole as the filament is extruded. Possibly. All I know is that the prinby fatesalign - General
I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the markforged 3d printer that supposedly prints parts as strong as metal (using carbon fiber). The reason for the question is that they said they invented a new hot end that can dispense the carbon fiber. So does that mean all we really need is one of their nozzles, and we can essentially print metal? If anyone know anything about this, I'm really cby fatesalign - General
Hello everyone. I was just wondering what it takes to get as low as 0.05mm layer height. Is it even possible and if so, is it much better as far as accuracy? Is it all in the hotend or are there other means to it? Thank you for any answers.by fatesalign - Reprappers
Quotecdru QuotefatesalignI'm more looking at different materials like nylon.Nylon requires high hot end temperatures, not high heated bed temps. Look a Taulman's recommended settings for their various types of nylon. I can't find any place that recommends high temperatures for nylon. Most have recommendations at or lower what's usually recommended for PLA at 60 degrees C. I appreciate it. I've oby fatesalign - General
Quotecdru QuotefatesalignI'm more looking at different materials like nylon.Nylon requires high hot end temperatures, not high heated bed temps. Look a Taulman's recommended settings for their various types of nylon. I can't find any place that recommends high temperatures for nylon. Most have recommendations at or lower what's usually recommended for PLA at 60 degrees C. I know nylon recommendsby fatesalign - General
Quotecdru Quotefatesalign Apparently some materials might need more than the 110 degrees Celsius the bed that comes with mine has.What material? Some types of ABS may like a little more than 110, but I can't find any common material that needs significantly more than that. Quote1. Is the board good enough to upgrade the bed to a hotter one if I needed?If by board you mean electronics, I wouldnby fatesalign - General
Hello everyone. I've been so unbelievably grateful for all of your help. If I am asking too much, I honestly am sorry. I keep thinking this or that is all I'm going to need, but then I learn something else, and I have another question. So I finally ordered this perusa i3: and I've learned a little more about heated beds. Apparently some materials might need more than the 110 degrees Celsius theby fatesalign - General
QuoteSrek On the page you linked to scroll down to the specs. It says 12v there. I thought so. I just wasn't sure it was referring to that. Thank you!by fatesalign - General
Anyone? Like I said. I think it's 12v, but I'm not sure.by fatesalign - General
Quotegordonendersby Ninjaflex is the same temp as abs. I used about 230c when i last printed with it. Any higher and it seemed to ooze too much. Even at 230 i had to prime the nozzle just before printing or it would ooze out. And print slow. Fastest i got was 20mm/s. Needs some cooling fan as well or it just droops away from the print head. You cant print anything that uses support as the ninjaflby fatesalign - General
I see the e3d lite is a really great price. Does it work with ninja flex and is there ever a reason to go past 240c? And any idea as to whether I need the 12v or 24v? Here is the printer I'm looking at:by fatesalign - General
I know I have a topic up right now, but I figured this was a pretty big topic. I'm trying to find a decent hot end that can handle pretty much any filament, including ninjaflex. I'm getting a pretty cheap i3, so I hope it's not like putting lipstick on a pig, but I was curious of people's opinions. I'm looking at possibly getting a e3d v6, but they are so expensive. I see there are hot ends calleby fatesalign - General
I see some metal frames out there, so I'll probably do that once it starts getting a little worn.by fatesalign - General
I really appreciate all the replies. It isn't my first 3d printer. I had a printrbot, but I want something with a bigger build area, and this is pretty much double, so I figured it would work. I also assumed the acrylic would be better than the laser cut wood.by fatesalign - General
Hello everyone. I have pretty much definitively decided on this i3 rep rap: . I was wondering if anyone suggested any kind of upgrade parts like the hot end. Also, will it ever be possible to get more accurate than 0.1mm with upgrades? Thanks so much for any answers.by fatesalign - General
I can understand that, but I guess the real question is why you have frequent rebooting, installation of os and crashes with Windows?by fatesalign - General
Quotetjb1 Quotetnert2003 I have bought two sunhockey i3's this year from them. www.3dprintersonlinestore.com. the support is good. the new acrylics are better. but still acrylic.took two weeks to arrive.but for 350 free shipping i cant complain. Acrylic is never a good choice for a printer, it does not last. Acrylic is just plastic right? I would think it would work.by fatesalign - General
QuoteRalph.Hilton The threaded rod arrangement of the i2 requires a lot more adjustment to accurately set up. I'm looking at an i3 right now, so that's good. Thank you.by fatesalign - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Auto bed leveling/zeroing measures the location and tilt of the bed, then the firmware compensates for the tilt by running the Z axis screws continuously as the machine prints. It essentially tilts the print in software to match the tilt of the bed. That makes sense. Thank you very much!by fatesalign - General
Hello, I really appreciate all the help I've gotten so far, and I apologize if I've asked too many questions, but I had one last one. How exactly does the auto bed leveling work? The printer I'm looking at is an i3 with auto bed leveling as an add on for $40. I saw a video, and it showed the print head going to all 4 corners, but I don't understand. Does it tell you which corner to screw in more/by fatesalign - General
QuoteDust I3 is current design and has twice the Z height comprared to the I2 I3 also easyer to setup, less parts I would ignore mr "I hate threaded rods".. its just his opinion.. They work fine as main machine structure. I appreciate it!by fatesalign - General
What about this: They even have an auto bed leveling for $40. Thanks for any feedback. Never heard of this retailer though.by fatesalign - General
Quotemadmike8 The one from 2012hictech is a i3 The one from globalfreeshipping is an i2 Oh wow. I'm assuming the i3 is a lot better?by fatesalign - General