Yes 2mm aluminum warps during heating. It is what i have so im using but looking to go to the thick plate that has been discussed in depth here on the forums.by thetazzbot - General
Just want to say that im in love with my mini kossel. I just finished it and got it running.. It so much better than my prusa i3. And yes not a difficult build at all. I like the suggestions that been have given.by thetazzbot - General
I would like to take you up on this offer. Here is a dragon. I think there is supported and unsupported. Use the un supported so i can see how simplify3d creates support. Go for .2mm layer and 50mm/s speed. Im going to print it on 2 machines. Thank you!by thetazzbot - General
I just finished my kossel and had to go through all these crazy config settings and trial and error to get it calibrated. I didnt install the probe yet. Sure wouldnt want to attempt that with ten newbs in a workshop.. So yeah auto calibration would be a must. Ps im using ramps marlin and its working fine.by thetazzbot - General
Quoteo_lampe QuoteKurzaa I would think it might be better to start with an introduction to 3D printing rather than jumping right into the build. Day one starts with downloading a pre-determined model from thingiverse and loading it into some design software to customize it. Then move onto validating the model and covering slicing options before moving onto printer designs (cartisian, coreXY, deltby thetazzbot - General
Quotedc42 Nice idea! Quotethetazzbot Class would involve a beginner's level kit (a cartesian printer, aka mendel 90 or prusa i3 varation); or a corexy using Smartrap Core "box" printer. What have you got against deltas? I think the Fisher delta could be a good basis for such a course, once RepRapPro have improved the assembly instructions. With a delta you are mostly building the same thing 3 tby thetazzbot - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think it would be difficult to have most people build a printer during a one day class, especially if they're building different kits. For most, just tuning and getting it printing reasonably well in one day would be a challenge, even with knowledgeable assistance. I'd go for a much longer class to get machines built, or have people build at home as complete as possiblby thetazzbot - General
Quotedc42 Nice idea! Quotethetazzbot Class would involve a beginner's level kit (a cartesian printer, aka mendel 90 or prusa i3 varation); or a corexy using Smartrap Core "box" printer. What have you got against deltas? I think the Fisher delta could be a good basis for such a course, once RepRapPro have improved the assembly instructions. With a delta you are mostly building the same thing 3 tby thetazzbot - General
If you were going to host or participate in a class that goes from start to finish in building a 3d printer "kit", what do you think you would like to have/see in such a class? Some parameters for discussion: Class would involve a beginner's level kit (a cartesian printer, aka mendel 90 or prusa i3 varation); or a corexy using Smartrap Core "box" printer. One day class, build from start to finiby thetazzbot - General
Try this method that I found on youtube. Start with clean glass. Alcohol or windex. Pour a little acetone on the glass. Natural white abs is preferred, but grab a failed print and just rub it on the glass all around with the acetone. It will coat the glass with abs juice. No need to keep a jar of juice. It doesn't keep anyway, and the acetone evaps.by thetazzbot - Printing
I don't know, but I'm not even sure I'd expect a bridge like that to work.... lol I'd say that you need higher temperature, no retraction, and maybe accelleration/jerk has something to do with it.. Slicer might be able to have more options on this than cura.. never used simplify3dby thetazzbot - Printing
It took 11 hours to print the essential parts on a PolyPrinter. I printed the Z components on one printer (3 hours) and the motor/bearing/X carriage/extruder/jhead parts on another (8 hours). In retrospect it would take less time to mill them (not the Z riser) in aluminum on a Bridgeport mill :-/by thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
Nice work!by thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
My thoughts are it is not reading correct temp. With the knockoff clones the thermistor has a lot of variances. Are you sure you have the right one configured in marlin? Just because it reads 220 doesnt make it 220 dont suppose you have a meter with a k type temp probe?by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Also, the github source files and the youmagine files are not the same. youmagine openjscad is 1.2.4 jun 17, the github has 1.2.3 jun 12 or something like that do a file compare (winmerge) to see the differences.by thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
I believe those individual files are their production files for 8mm rods, 12mm walls. Notes on printing. It is recommended to print one part at a time, this helps with layer adhesion. .2 or .25 layer height I'm printing all the main parts right now, and some have pulled off the bed, so recommend using a brim (no raft). You will need to run the parts through netfab to fix them, the slicer complaby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
Im using almost the same. I find that on the .4 nozzle, .2 layer height is best. It doesnt seem to like .3by thetazzbot - Printing
Well im glad i got the sources now then lol Yhank you for publishing the design. Personally i think you overwhelmed youself by supporting too many cad formats. Focus on openscad should be sufficient. Thingiverse customizer uses it. I am not yet in love with openscad but it has its meritsby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
Sure. Just try to use beefy legs. There are rostocks made of plywood. These look pretty big.by thetazzbot - Reprappers
Thats a great reply.... Thanks!by thetazzbot - General
But i have to tell ya im so fed up with this i3 im about to dismantle it coompletely. Start over with something that delivers more prints than headaches.by thetazzbot - General
Can you post some picsby thetazzbot - General
It defies my sense of logic yes.by thetazzbot - General
Thank you for the education on Cura. Now, I shall education you on the repo Smartfriendz publishes a Github repository where their "open source" code is stored. There are three flavors, blender, openscad, and openjscad. Using the "OpenSCAD" application you can open the smartcore.scad file, set some parameters, and generate parts either as an assembly or as an individual part. Alternativelby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
I received a free sample of this filament from filabits, made by Biome3D . It is very nice! I love the shine and smooth finish. They only sent like 1.5 meters so not enough to really test with. Wondering if anyone has done much printing with it? Next question, and I think this is a bit rhetorical... So far ive been (not having luck with...) printing relatively inexpensive filament ($20-$25by thetazzbot - General
Trying to use either the Openjscad or the openscad and getting frustrated with irreconcilable differences. Look at the two images attached the openscad is not rendering the whole part if you change the wall thickness to 19 in openjscad, it renders the part joined in the middle, useless. I'm using the "Edit in OpenJSCAD" link from youmagine The parts are not rendering complete in openscby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
But that doesnt look rigid enough to me.... ok so i was looking at that picture on my phone and couldn't see it very well, so now I'm on my desktop, yes it looks pretty good. More work but nice outcomeby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
I must have forgotten all that stuff i learnt in wood shop. The table saw doesnt cut square and was really frustrating. I think the next one i make will be small enough to utilize a piece of 12 inch shelf that has melamine on it. That is 300 mm deep or tall depending on how you situate it. That makes it one easy cut on a extension chop saw or radial arm saw. But i have a reasonably squarish bby thetazzbot - Smart_Rap
Dude we did that on skype two weeks ago. Surprised you didnt remember. Your using that old config from the vendor you bought the i2 from.by thetazzbot - Reprappers