From the ebay listings: 5V-12V Micro Brushless Planetary Gear Motor DC Geared Motor & Hall Sensor 52RPM 1pc Faulhaber Motor 1616E010 Coreless Gear Motor 141:1 Encoder for Robotby asbo - General
Thanks, they have a couple of errors but it auto fixes them I'll rebuild it in SolidWorks and upload the assembly in case anyone finds that useful.by asbo - General
Quotenebbian Quoteasbo I'll keep looking whenever I get a chance How about this one? Vague on the details but I'm assuming by "Hall" they mean hall effect sensor. See if you can get them to give you a weight of the item. I've tried and failed. This is the reply I got: Quotethe length is about 5.7cm the weight is 0.06kg regardsby asbo - General
@nebbian I was going to suggest that one next from the same seller as I looked at before. Interestingly the two photos from the listings are the same except this one has an extra image. I wonder if they're all coming from the same place.by asbo - General
I'll keep looking whenever I get a chance How about this one? Vague on the details but I'm assuming by "Hall" they mean hall effect sensor.by asbo - General
Does the "Speed-Encoder" in the title indicate the encoder can only sense speed and not direction?by asbo - General
Thanks Could you also upload each printed component as a separate STEP file? I think the reason SolidWorks is having problems is because all the components are in one file. I'd like to change your design a little.by asbo - General
@powdermetal Are you modelling your CycloidalExtruderDrive in SolidWorks? If so could you upload the native SolidWorks files as both the 3mm step files from the wiki and the 1.75mm ones above throw up all sorts of errors for me. Thanksby asbo - General
I've tried colorfabs copper, bronze and brass filament as well as proto-pastas stainless steel. They print pretty well and you can get some great looking prints from them. I've even been using a 0.25mm nozzle just to see if it's possible, even though it isn't recommended by the manufactures. The filament is quite brittle so you'll need to be careful. The prints are also quite brittle however I'veby asbo - General
I tried a vinegar based window cleaner and didn't have any luck with it.by asbo - General
QuotesigxcpuI assume sanding PrintBite is a nono, right? I doubt you'll ever need to. I'm finding it's super tough and although mine now has quite a few scratches they don't seem to affect print adhesion.by asbo - General
In the end I exported it as an .stl as I couldn't find all the dimensions. However I'm not sure the dimensions I got from the .stl are quite right, before I go any further do they look right?by asbo - General
Quoterobkar Quoteasbo Quotelkcl is that from mutley3d.com? The stuff Mutley sells is called PrintBite and works better than PEI. I had planned to buy a PEI sheet for the bed, but now I actually bought a piece of this Printbite instead. I hope it is good! Since I am using dc42s ir sensor it is also convienient that the Printbite is black and do not need any painting, unlike PEI. In terms of priceby asbo - CoreXY Machines
QuoterklaucoCould the STL export help you? I can make one no problem - even using OpenJSCAD.org I can do it online... I've got OpenSCAD installed so I can look at the files and get the dimensions to recreate it in SolidWorks easy enough.by asbo - General
Quoterklauco QuoteasboThis is rather exciting! Assuming it's possible, I think you should aim for being able to use these with pre-existing hardware, I'd love to run these but I wouldn't want to replace my Duet boards. My goal is to make it technically possible NOT to replace anything - you will just pull out your stepper, or redirect the step/direction outputs to free pin and that's it. The drivby asbo - General
This is rather exciting! Assuming it's possible, I think you should aim for being able to use these with pre-existing hardware, I'd love to run these but I wouldn't want to replace my Duet boards. Quoterklauco And this is how it looks like with Chinese cheap e3d v6. Could you save more weight by rounding those edges?by asbo - General
Quotelkcl is that from mutley3d.com? The stuff Mutley sells is called PrintBite and works better than PEI.by asbo - CoreXY Machines
Have you tried giving it a quick clean with acetone? Mine stopped sticking because I'd put greasy fingerprints all over it, a quick splash of acetone and a wipe with kitchen roll fixed it.by asbo - General
They look like those old PC CD drive audio cable connectors.by asbo - General
I'm using an e3d hardened steel nozzle and I've not noticed any difference compared to the standard nozzles.by asbo - General
QuoteMutley3D Temps you read from your printing sw interface are only ever going to be relative not absolute, so your 245 might be someone elses 240 or 250. This. I've only used PLA with PrintBite so far, so I don't want to write a proper review until I've tried many other materials. But so far it's been superb. I'm currently using 230c nozzle temp with cheap PLA and 240c with proto-pasta's staiby asbo - General
RepRapFirmware-1.10-b7-ch fixed it for me tooby asbo - Duet
Quotedc42 There is also 1.09z-rc1 available here . This version predates the latest round of network code changes. I should have mentioned I tried downgrading to that first before 1.09x, but I got the same errors as with 1.10.by asbo - Duet
Going back to RepRapFirmware-1.09x-dc42.bin fixed my problem.by asbo - Duet
Damn it Mutley, stop making me want to spend money on things! It does look seriously good.by asbo - General
I'm getting a couple of problems with the web interface; the majority of the time it sort of half loads and sits there forever trying to load. If I reboot the duet it will then sometimes load but when I upload some gcode I'm presented with an AJAX error seen here: When that happens I get the following blurb over the serial connection: Network::ConnectionAcceptedby asbo - Duet
Just tried it, everything returns 0 results for me.by asbo - General