I've not got mine yet but I was planning on sticking it down with either kapton or blue tape around the edges. Its how I've stuck my glass to the heated bed and works fineby asbo - General
That's good to see rafffle, I'm also putting mgn12 on mine, just waiting for some t-nuts which I should have ordered at the same timeby asbo - Delta Machines
I've got one of these, I'm replacing the corners with aluminium ones as I had some problems with it printing straight.by asbo - Delta Machines
I've just realised one of those data sheets says to use M3x8mm, stupid meby asbo - Delta Machines
Quoteetfrench Quoteasbo M3 screws are really loose in mine, is it like that on yours too? How much side to side movement do you have when all the screws are all installed, but slightly loose? The max you could have is about .5mm or about 0.0573° over 500mm. You can make a fixture to hold the rails in place while fastening them. It just needs to register against the side of the extrusion and tby asbo - Delta Machines
M3 screws are really loose in mine, is it like that on yours too?by asbo - Delta Machines
How have you attached your rails to your profile? I just got some from robotdigg and the screw holes seem to be M3.5, which are easy enough to buy, but I have no idea where to get M3.5 t-nutsby asbo - Delta Machines
Once dc42 confirms this works with his IR probe I'll probably buy a sheetby asbo - General
The trouble with multiple extruder single nozzle hotends is if you're not using all the inputs at once the melted plastic goes back up the side not in use and clogs it up.by asbo - Delta Machines
I think its meant to be one object and the object not being manifold is a mistake. Both Cura and Slic3r slice it ok despite the error.by asbo - General
I've had a similar problem, this is how I solved it: Turn the hotend on and let it reach temperature.Disconnect the bowden tube from the top of the hotend.Loosen your extruder's grip on the filament so you can pull it through by hand.Trim the filament sticking out of the tube as it will likely be a bit distorted, you may also want to sharpen it into a slight point.Pull about 10cm of filament thrby asbo - Delta Machines
No, my investigations are on hold whilst I build a CoreXY machine. I have realised that the aluminium profile doesn't push all the way into the corners/the straight bits aren't straight((see images)I suppose that's what I get for buying a kit from China). So I'll probably end up buying the metal corners from robotdigg like a few others have.by asbo - Delta Machines
Both the rods and bearings come slightly lubricated and I think adding more might risk gunging them up. I don't know whether it applies to 3d printers but in the CNCing world we have to careful sawdust, chips etc don't mix with lubricants and clog things up. There won't be any sawdust in the printer but maybe common household dust might cause problems if there's more than enough lubricant?by asbo - General
Well I'm using them with cheap LM8UU bearings from china, instead of the LME8UU ones which dold sell. I think the E is for Europe and the ones without are an international version. So I don't know if the E ones are better, they are slightly bigger. They seem fine so far but the CoreXY I'm building them with isn't finished so they've only been slid up and down by hand. I have done this repeatedlyby asbo - General
Dold-Mechatronik has excellent prices. If you don't speak German figure out what you want with google translate and then send them an email asking for a quote in English. I've found their customer service to be excellent. Their rods are GCr15 though but they seem tough enough to me.by asbo - General
Hopefully these pictures show what I mean. I've marked the towers. I've also now noticed those long side bits aren't straight.by asbo - Delta Machines
Duet with your IRprobe and firmware, although I see you've just released updated firmware so I'll load that up tomorrow. X/Y(horizontal) in regards to 3D space. In relation to the towers, straight lines that point towards the Z tower are angled slightly towards the Y tower. I think I got that right, having XYZ 3D space and naming the towers XYZ too gives me a headache!by asbo - Delta Machines
I've recently realised the right angles in my prints aren't quite right angles. Reprap firmware auto calibration doesn't correct the problem(I have no idea if it should?), so I'm thinking the printers frame isn't quite right. Does anyone know what could be causing it?by asbo - Delta Machines
I'm in the process of building a CoreXY myself and I'm now thinking a counterweight might be a good idea, may have to pinch your designby asbo - CoreXY Machines
Okay, next idea; you could try moving the motor connections around. A delta is a triangle so move the corners around clockwise, or anti-clockwise. Plug the X motor into the Y socket, the Y into the Z and the Z into the X. Move the endstop plugs around too. If tower C still moves lower etc then its the motor, if not then its something else. Actually you might want to try it first without moving tby asbo - Delta Machines
Sounds like the pulleys may be slipping on the motor shaft(s), check they're tight. If the motor shafts have a flat and the pulleys grub screws are not completely tightened against it, the shafts can rotate a bit before the grub screws catch on the flats edge. This results in backlash.by asbo - Delta Machines
It looks like some sort of counterweight to me, perhaps to offset the weight of the bed?by asbo - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDejay Probably around 110€ including shipping from US and import VAT They're actually in Hong Kong. I don't know about the rest of Europe but in the UK we tend to get charged a lot of VAT etc on stuff from the USA but very little, if any, on stuff from China/Hong Kong.by asbo - Controllers
Have you tried increasing the hotend temperature? I had the same problem, tried replacing the bowden tube and all sorts, turned out I just needed to increase the heat a little. You should be able to push the filament through manually with just a finger and thumb, keep increasing the temperature until you can(within reason of course).by asbo - Delta Machines
Try increasing the temperature. I was having trouble extruding, the extruder kept slipping and grinding, resulting in prints like yours. The filament extruded fine on the j-head clone at 190c but has to be up into the 200s on the E3d hotends. Currently printing at 230c but I think I can probably lower it a bit.by asbo - General
That might be caused by the printable height value, under printer settings in Repetier Host, being higher than what you've set in the firmware on the printer. This is a bit of a guess though. You could try switching to Repetier firmware, the config tool is here. It's what I used before getting a Duet and it worked reasonably well. If you bought your printer from someone or a company they might beby asbo - Delta Machines
Again I don't use Marlin so I'm not totally sure but I've had a fiddle with the Marlin configuration tool here(N.B. I have no idea if that's recommended) and looking through the files it generated for me there's a line called "deltaheight": in the configuration.h file, whereas Z_MAX_POS only shows up in configuration_cartesian.h So maybe you should see if you have that line in your files, andby asbo - Delta Machines
Excellent, got that working too. My printer is not within reach of my PC so its nice to be able to fire up a macro from the screen and have a finger on the off switch in case it goes horribly wrong Slightly off topic, is there a 5V source on the Duet I can power an always on fan from? E3d say the hotend fan should always be on but its really noisy powered directly from the 12V PSU.by asbo - Delta Machines
I didn't even have a bed.g file, added the one from your repo and it now works Also added pause.g, resume.g and updated the config.g and homedelta.g files. Seems I was a little out of date How do you get those autocal etc buttons to show up on the paneldue?by asbo - Delta Machines