Upgrades available here no affiliation just found it with a web searchby Firefox3D - General
Hi Dave, I have a Duet 0.6 which has a 10A limit? I was basing the nearly 600W on 0.6W per cm squared which would produce faster heating. I don't have a problem building a separate 24V or higher power supply, built plenty of amplifier power supplies.by Firefox3D - General
Still waiting to get mine, silly situation where the boss of the company wants it checked out before I can have it and I don't think anyone there has a clue about 3D printers, even though I said as long as it boots up when you put a power cord in it I am fine. The best stuff for glueing the plexi are the plastic solvent glues that look like water. Just make sure the faces of the crack are in proby Firefox3D - General
Thanks, I know you can work it out, just one less thing to have to do myself! I asked in particular about the Z axis because of the experience with my Ormerod. the standard drive with printed gears is ok if you are doing 0.2mm or greater layers, but anything less and you can see the variations. Swapping to a nema motor with a 8 x 8 thread gives a resolution of 0.04mm per step of the motor. Whenby Firefox3D - General
Regarding the PTFE liner, I have an Ormerod 2 where the liner runs within 10mm (maybe less) of the nozzle end. I have done 18 hour prints at 260 degrees, when taking the head apart to swap for a smaller nozzle recently the PTFE looks fine. Getting mine today hopefully, if the guy gets back to me about collecting it... One thing I was wondering when changing over to another controller board areby Firefox3D - General
I was tired of getting uneven layer thickness's with printed gears so I changed to a nema 17 with an 8 x 8 acme thread just recently. Also partly rebuilt the printer with a 3mm aluminium baseplate to screw the Z axis and motor onto, this bolts with t-nuts to the Y extrusion. Manually built an extension to the Z-nut trap section to get the alignment right before building and printing a new part. Hby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I was looking at something like this as replacement for my Z there are plenty of similar ones on ebay. This is 8mm per turn vs the 0.8 per turn for the original, but that still gives 0.04mm resolution with the standard 200 step Nema 17 motor.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Thanks I thought it be down to the M92 command, can you get the printer to echo back what the steps per mm values are I and not near mine at the moment. Yes I had looked into the 24V heated bed, have enough electrics knowledge to build a separate power supply for it if necessary.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Ball-screws would be good and with the right nuts will be zero backlash, but, they are far heavier. They would be ideal if building a serious size machine like a 450mm sq print area or more. I recently built a mini-mill with 16mm ball-screws and a 400mm bed, the accuracy is amazing. Don't forget lots of machined aluminium parts What lead are the ballscrews you used? I'm worriedby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Treito - sorry didn't see your post previously. Darathy - sorry just did a quick search and it appeared that all the drives were 17's. Obviously the mass of the moving parts is much higher than it would be on what I am thinking of.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Not according to the guy at zappautomation, he said the Nema 17's work fine Also this uses Nema 17'sby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I think I really want to get away from belts so to remove belt noise and vibrations from the equation. I am heading in the linear bearing and ballscrews direction, although they are more expensive they are 1 - simpler to implement/very accurate and 2 - why not do something different? and cool 5mm lead (5mm movement per motor rotation) is readily available but not sure if that is enough, simpleby Firefox3D - Ormerod
They do appear to be 10mm diameter.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 The belt will not make any difference to the operation, it does not matter if its a metric or imperial pitch system as long as the belt matches the pulleys of course. The important factor is the relationship between the motor steps (usually 200) and the pitch of a lead-screw if used, if the drive is by direct belt then the only part that matters is the motor steps and pulley sizes.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Just done a bit more research and the linear rails available from used in Kossel printers recommend using ballscrews as the lower friction means speed and direction changes should not be an issue. These are used on bigger CNC machines so are maybe overkill, and or expensive. If anyone thinks I'm an idiot and overdoing this please step in! Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Thanks again Mitch, never thought of looking for the Nema motors with the leadscrews, seems obvious they exist now. My head is now swimming with possibilities. My starting point idea is an accurate base, aluminiumwarehouse sell ecocast aluminium sheet which has a surface accuracy of 10 microns and it's not expensive. Linear rails for the X and Y axis would ensure very good accuracy. A quick lookby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Thanks Mitch, leadscrews were the direction I was heading in for the Z axis for sure. I did just want a level bed so I can forget about the compensation. Through much fiddling I got my bed to a max deviation of about 0.05mm which is pretty good, but an accidental bump could easily upset it, or just looking at it funny... Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I am not mad they are not in there, certainly not as as DXF's anyway.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Thanks Dario, are those in the repository, did I just miss them? Will post info on what I have in mind later when I have more time. Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
This is work in progress, but essentially I wanted to fix some of the precision/reliability issues with the Ormerod design. I am not bashing the design here, for £400 it is a brilliant printer, but from a year or two of use and looking at other designs I know it can be better. I was initially going to just fix certain aspects of the one I have, but when I started looking I realised it made senseby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Looking at the pics I would say your bed levelling isn't working that well, the print look as if it's printing too high where it has curled, so low adhesion combined with the fact the part is narrow there and the tension on the outside corner will make it want to lift. If you want good adhesion on the cheap, kapton tape roughed up with 600 grit wet and dry paper works very well. Also if you prinby Firefox3D - Ormerod
So the 0.05mm jog step from the web interface doesn't put the Z motor out-of-step so to speak? I really don't want to make a big deal out of this as I think it's maybe something I have been doing as a routine that might be causing it. Just to expand on that my Z probe seemed to be a bit variable possibly ambient lighting, or the fact I moved it up about 2mm to stop it clipping prints. This wasby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I am running Simplify3D, I can post the settings but I have seen similar banding on other prints in the past although that might have been my Z drive gears which were not optimal. It's not showing up on parts I have printed yesterday, but I have been homing all axis then cold rebooting. If Dave can answer whether the 0.05mm Z movement is a possible issue and if so can it be changed to 0.04mm whby Firefox3D - Ormerod
The g-code file isn't the problem, I have seen the artefact in other things I have printed. However I think I might just have realised something, using half Z movements in the web interface moves 0.05mm is that a full number of motor steps? Config,g ; Ormerod 2 config file for dc42 Duet firmware M111 S0 ; Debug off M555 P2 ; Set output toby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Hi Trieto, No there is nothing but the standard settings in the end g-code, plus sending a reset clears anything in the process queue I would think.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Sliced with Simplify3D 3.0.2 It's exactly the same g-code file run on the printer. I'm sure it's something to do with a setting not clearing by using reset from the web interface, at the moment I have things to print but will report back when I pin down what it is, or whether it was just a temporary bug.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Just to prove I'm not over emphasising the issue at 0.12mm layer height. Banding Reboot no bandingby Firefox3D - Ormerod
It's sure it's none of those things as I printed a cube with banding, then after a full reboot no banding. The answer for the moment is a full power down reboot before a long print, but I will try and track down what has been causing it. I have a feeling that other people reporting banding problems might be down to the same issue.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
So the reset command effectively clears all setting and reloads the config.g file which is what I thought it would do. I have been getting a banding effect as if the print is shrinking then growing a very small amount in the X Y axis which repeats every 1mm or so. I am printing thin layers 0.12 and 0.16mm. I have driven myself mad for about 3 days because I thought it was inaccurate drive on thby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Is there an error in the model? I found when I have checked what should be perfect models with netfabb they have issues. Also I have had odd slicing behaviour with Simplyfy3D where the model was fine but there was some kind of interaction between the model height vs the layer height. I found by changing the layer height (sometimes just the first layer %) the model sliced correctly or moving theby Firefox3D - Ormerod