Question to Dave, when you send a M999 reset command via the web interface, is the same as a full power down reboot? I'm asking as I have had a ongoing random issue that I think might be down to using it rather than a full reboot.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
I will post this here as it's relevant to firmware settings, although also effected by the print material. Been using Colorfabb XT which is a type of PETG filament. Bed adhesion is proving to be a bit flaky for big parts so might swap to PEI? But it prints well and you can wet sand it to quality surface. I started printing a test cube with infill so I could optimise the basics for successful prby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Perhaps 10 times faster is overstating it, maybe around 5 or 6 times, with a large file 15MiB it averages 160Kib/s with the supplied Kingston card. It was so slow before I usually transferred the card to the pc rather than wait.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Thanks Dave, Good lookin' web interface and the 10X? faster file upload means I don't lose the will to live waiting for a file to upload, plus the ability to cancel, brilliant. Before I realised you have moved the Motors off button to the send gcode option (M84) I added a macro for Motors off (M18) Is there difference between M84 and M18 on an Ormerod, doesn't seem to be?by Firefox3D - Ormerod
I have been doing some testing with Colorfabb XT which is similar to PETG as far as I know, the maximum print speed for a high quality print is around 30mm/s. It behaves in a much more viscous elastic manner than PLA, can't compare to ABS as I have never used it, don't want to poison myself! Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I had the same banding problem with Slic3r, it overfills infill sections between perimeters, these parts count as infill (pinky red in the preview) even if master infill is off as in 0%. It is possible to almost cure it by reducing Print settings > Advanced > infill to 50% or less but that screws other things up.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Printed fine, perimeters still a little too fast, little too much ringing from the fast direction change, 2nd attempt going now. Discovered it doesn't add end code to move the head off the print and move the bed forward as Slic3r does, so you want to put this in Scripts > Ending Script section G91 G1 Z5 G90 G1 X0 Y200 F6000 M104 S0 ; turn off extruder M140 S0 ; turn off bedby Firefox3D - Ormerod
You have to choose other during setup, then reprap/marlin/sprinter, think that's the option, and be sure to enable Relative extrusion distances under the G-code tab. I or Treito etc can provide screenshots of all the relevant settings if you need help.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Well I bought it, copied most of Trieto's settings from the gcode file, couple of amendments, mainly just retraction speed which sounded a bit viscous on my printer and overall speed a little slower. Plus the minimum travel for retraction to stop the stringing, remembered I changed this in Slic3r down to the 1mm minimum, printing now. Also using colorfabb XT filament, which from two quick testby Firefox3D - Ormerod
One interesting thing I forgot to mention, the Simplify3D printing seems to alternate between clockwise and anti-clockwise where Slic3r seems to go almost constantly anti-clockwise with the odd clockwise change. Don't think it has any advantages, just different.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Funnily enough I moved my Z-sensor as I has having collision problems, I filed about 0.5mm of the bottom of the board, fixed it with super strong double sided tape as the holes in the board wouldn't let me relocate it higher up, and filed about 1mm or more off bottom of the plastic surround. I now have about 2mm+ clearance so no hitting issues. I have tried 3 different version of Slic3r and the bby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Thanks Treito, that's what I meant. I was going to print the 20% infill also but looking at it in Repetier-Host the top "problem" section is exactly the same, not surprising as it shouldn't require infill. Conclusion Simplify3D wins hands down, no banding, no glitches, being extremely picky - tiny bit of stringing between the really small V cuts at the top, but that's ok as it's a very quick neby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Treito, does Simplify3D have a setting like Sli3er to infill every X layers and set the extrusion width for infill by percentage. Only I have found that doing infill every 2 layers at 200% works really well and speeds up prints.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
No obvious banding like the Slic3r print, but realised I had used different temp setting previously for the filament I used, so gcode mod and going again.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Currently printing, think we have a winner.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
That's where I was heading myself Dave, I try and avoid support structures purely down to waste of material, and usually you can slice things up to make them work without, but yes having the option would be very useful.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
I need to pull mine apart soon and rebuild to increase the build height, actually considering if it is worth it as I have the bed manually levelled to a worst case 0.02mm deviation at the moment.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Wow, thanks for the fast response, will try this evening. Just looking at the gcode, handy that Simplify3D annotates the sections so you know exactly what the code relates to.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
I was just going to paste the command from Sli3er but 56 works for me.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Sorry had that and forgot to paste it in Perimeters 50mm/s External Perimeters 40mm/s Infill 40mm/s The speed is not that important, tried it faster and slower with the same result. Print temps I can paste from Sli3er gcode or manually alter but go with 190 first layer 170 for the rest. The problems I think are caused by extrusion factors at certain points, not anything else.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Sli3er is better than it was, certainly the interface, but I think it might be something to do with the infill overlap that maybe isn't being honoured in certain situations, I have changed it from 15% to 5% or 0% and it doesn't seem to change the print or gcode when inside and outside walls have a spacing between them of just over 1 line of infill, if you can turn infill off it almost disappearsby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Hi, After seeing some good comparison pics of Sli3er vs Simplify3D in an old thread I have seen a banding "feature" in a print that I see in mine, which I think may be down to the way Sli3er deals with sections that have a small gap between inside and outside perimeters. I would like to send someone who owns Simplify3D a small STL file so they could create a gcode file for a test print. If it pby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Does the slicing software report any fixes or corrections, I had glitches like that caused by a model problem. About 50% of models I have downloaded have need correcting, they don't all cause print problems but I always check them with netfabb first, better than wasting time and filamentby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I agree the original filament provided with my RS Ormerod was very good, very even virtually perfect print quality. I bought black and silver from amazon, they are labelled MG chemicals medium priced about £15 for 0.5kg. The black is good and very tolerant of different print settings, seems more viscous, probably the colourant used. The silver was a nightmare to get started, too much temp on theby Firefox3D - Ormerod
If you go higher with the M566 X and Y values can you get other problems - undershoot? or actually break something Thanks again btw, as I said better prints are just a bonus to the fast homing, got real tiring waiting for it, especially when I forgot and left a homing action in the g code so it did it twice. Forgot to say I did a test print at 100% and the ones in the pic are at 150%, no disceby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Comparision pic of old vs new firmware with part of the standard "owl" test The creases in the "wood" are about 1mm max at the edges, with the previous 1.09a you can see buildup and glitches the new one on the right is considerably better.by Firefox3D - Ormerod
Sorry typing error correctedby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I fine tuned the filament settings last night for some cheap filament I bought for test printing, it turns out it prefers a much lower print temp. However the part of the accentuation of edges remained, as if the head was moving too slowly so a build up occurred. That new firmware and the increase in the M566 has produced a much crisper print for me, thanks Dave. Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
I think I might be seeing what is more buildup on corners and angle changes, as thought it is accentuating the edges of the triangles in the model. **edit** might be the current filament I am using, just trying something else and this stuff is "stringy" But can you still suggest a ballpark change to the M556 line? Thanks Jonby Firefox3D - Ormerod
Yes sorry for derailing, I just wanted to to know exactly how the print quality differs with the newer firmware. Dario, is the Z support print with the standard 0.5mm head and speed settings?by Firefox3D - Ormerod