thats actually good for large scale printer like 400mmx400mm plus size, save energy and the headache on working out the heatbed how is the bottom surface of the finish and how well the foam comes off?by deaconfrost - Printing
settings are Print - 300mm Travel - 300mm First Layer - 20mm Outer Perimeter - 150mm Inner Perimeter - 200mm Infill - 300mm Skin infill - 150mm the print seems reasonable except the first 5mm and first layer warping a bit, bed temp was 68c, may try 75c, usually print at 80c + bed temp and have no lift at all, actually very hard to remove the part even after cooling down to 30c 20% infill 0.8mmby deaconfrost - Printing
its been working out fairly well so farby deaconfrost - Printing
I have my bed at 90c printing pla or petg, I put 4 layers of pva straight on the aluminum heat bed, not a tiny lift on a 3hours print, even at 80% infill. Could it be your bed temp is inaccurate? Think mine reads higher than it is anyway. Nozzle temp depends on printing speed I'm at, between 190 to 220 on pla and 230 on petg but I always do petg slow with highest layer height possible for transpby deaconfrost - Printing
Since mine is 10mm and nuts are much bigger, I can use current setup and just put the nut under the x idler and motor mount and they will rest on it. I might give that a try, I also have another 2 10mm leadscrew that I know are perfectly straight so if all else fall I can just use those 2 with bearing at top mounts to keep them straight at all timeby deaconfrost - Printing
@ stephenrc They were once perfectly straight, must have got hit when moving house, but not too bad. @sigxcpu Thanks for the link, but I'm using 10mm leadscrew with 2mm pitch, I made new mounts and grind off a bit on the nuts to mount them up, I think it's just the leadscrew got damaged during transportation. The leadscrew are actually longer, they're 400mm the bend is above 200mm once I had theby deaconfrost - Printing
yep, the new mounts tells me the right z screw was bent enough to cause visual problem on the printby deaconfrost - Printing
Making new Z top mounts with bearing holder to help keeping it straight, it seems to wobble when rotating and there's nothing at the top to hold it just a hole for it to go through but it can still wobble at the moment.by deaconfrost - Printing
turned my z screw back the other way, now prints perfectby deaconfrost - Printing
I turned my Z leadscrew up side down and the prints are coming out with ripples along the Z wall also it ripple so bad that it breaks off every 10 layers, the ripples are equal to the leadscrew pitch. Before I turned the leadscrew upside down everything was good and well just a bit of elephant foot. Anyone seen this before? I will turn them back the other way when I get home and do another testby deaconfrost - Printing
haven't been around for a few months, my project is on hold as I'm moving home, in the meantime I have some revision made to the design to give it maximum rigidity and speed that I can come up with myself, someone else may do a better design than me, I will post up again when I get to build the machine and have it up and running, again, the design will remain using leadscrews onlyby deaconfrost - Mechanics
I don't think that is my problem, even if the motors are not being moved, I still dont think it can go more than 30mm/s with single start leadscrewby deaconfrost - Mechanics
yea thats corrent, because the motors are mounted in the slider, unlike belt drive system, I can also run them like a belt system with 2 motors each, which is definitely not a good idea, or one motor with belt driving second leadscrew, but I dont want any beltsby deaconfrost - Mechanics
QuoteMKSA Quotedeaconfrost Yea I should find that out in couple weeks, have 4 start leadscrew ordered From what I see, when one axis moves, the other axis carriage is moving too with the head isn't ? sorry but I don't get what you askingby deaconfrost - Mechanics
they're 10mm and smooth rods are 12mm, before I put the leadscrew on there was no hanging, and I try to twist them gently, they didnt move at all, so should be strong enough I hope I am plaining on using another brass nut on the other end of them with springs in between them for anti back lash, but since I change the leadscrew, Im going to use different approach, I keep you updatedby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Yea I should find that out in couple weeks, have 4 start leadscrew orderedby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Quotetobben Quotedeaconfrost As it is the printer tops out at around 25mm/s to 30mm/s I don't think it go any faster with 1 start. Is it mid-band resonance that limits the speed? (would look like these videos: [1], [2], [3]). BTW, found a video showing anti-resonant drivers + rotating the nut: [4] The cheapest anti-resonance stepper drivers I've found are $40 each [5]. This makes cheap leadscreby deaconfrost - Mechanics
I'm only using pla on my first build of the big printer, once all good, I will re produce it and I look in to material then, this is just a test of my designby deaconfrost - Mechanics
@the_digital_dentist I been using pla on the X axis of my i3 with leadscrew thread printed together and my i3 has an enclosure, I been using it for months and not a tiny bit of deforming. You must have a seriously hot motor. I have a thread here from when I first started using pla x idler and motor mount with leadscrew thread printed. You can see how long I been using it. Not a slight bit of prby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Quotetobben Quotedeaconfrost I made the i3 leadscrew upgrade with PLA, since the z axis has much less movement I was too worry about the pla melt away or eaten by the leadscrew. Did you use PLA for the Z-nut? Cool! That saves a machined part and maybe even some money At what speed does the XY axes of the big printer top out? 30 mm/s or faster? How long is the travel per revolution on the bigby deaconfrost - Mechanics
QuoteMKSA Quotedeaconfrost I need to change my x y to minimum of 4 starts, but since I had extra single start I tho I give it a try, but it will take forever to print anything I am a bit puzzled. Does you Y motor moves the X carriage and the X moves the Y carriage ? The X motor is moving the hotend on the X axis and the Y motor is driving the hotend on the Y axis maybe confusing because both mby deaconfrost - Mechanics
Thanks tobben, yea I'm very used to long print job, the big top corners took just under 19hrs to print on the i3, I've also made x motor mount and idler with z axis 10mm leadscrew thread built in, still working perfect with no backlash since about 4 months ago I think, if not longer, I made the i3 leadscrew upgrade with PLA, since the z axis has much less movement I was too worry about the pla meby deaconfrost - Mechanics
I need to change my x y to minimum of 4 starts, but since I had extra single start I tho I give it a try, but it will take forever to print anythingby deaconfrost - Mechanics
thanks for the link I removed header and cut the traceby deaconfrost - General
hi I removed all jumpers to run full step, but it is still running on 1/16 on all motors can anyone help please why that is I'm using marlin 1.1 RC3 thanksby deaconfrost - General
just some update, the parts I made are still working perfect, not a problem, and printer being printing very much non stop since. if you were to use 2 nuts, you are better to use springs between the 2 nuts for anti backlash.by deaconfrost - General
here's mine, not as big, but next one be bigger My First Designby deaconfrost - General
You can get better end stop holder on thingivers for the i3, my end stop is on the side with bumper on the side of the bed at the very front so doesn't get caught on anythingby deaconfrost - General
I'm getting mine shipped from a UK seller to Ireland. I can't find anyone here for that either. Just have to buy it from another country.by deaconfrost - General