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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Relay Bed heating. - 10 years ago
A 30 amp automotive relay is cheap, available and reliable.by nebbian - General
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
Hey good to see that you're making progress! Regarding those prints, you're overextruding there. In the filament section of Slic3r, lower the extrusion multiplier from 1 down to something like 0.95. It's normal to tweak the multiplier when you've got new filament. I take it you're printing a fan duct for your extruder? When you get it installed that will help with the curling issues you're hby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Why no affordable 32bit electronics - 10 years ago
Good point epicepee, I need to see what firmware it runs, and if that has been optimised for deltas. I'm pretty sure that reprap firmware doesn't support a simple 4 line LCD panel, which is sad. I don't want to spend megabucks on a fully graphical PanelDue when I really don't want it, and alteady have a 4 line LCD that works very well for me.by nebbian - General
Re: Why no affordable 32bit electronics - 10 years ago
QuoteFrans@France So why not the Gen7 32bits version that has just been released. Because it only has 4 stepper drivers, just like the duet :-( A 5 driver, 32 bit board, that can interface with a simple LCD panel, for $100 or less, will get my money.by nebbian - General
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
QuoteElectric ant In my case, you are right and wrong. The smooth rod offset has brought the left side down but not the right. The right side is due to the metal rod ends from the X axis pushing on the Y axis rod ends so the left side of the effector drops a little bit and you can see that the hothead is not stood up straight, but leaning to the left, therefore pushing head tip slightly closer tby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
Seriously, get a PEI sheet or a PrintBite sheet, and stick it to your aluminium bed. Best upgrade you can do to the printer. There's no preparation needed. No tape, no hairspray, no glue, no ABS juice, no glop, no slop. Just press "Print" and the prints stick. But for now, just buy some blue painters tape and use that for PLA. You don't even need to heat the bed. Get blue tape (it's tby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
QuoteGroupB not yet , Its kinda hard to reach the step setting , I have to remove the shield... I also chose radds and dvr8825 to be at 1/32 not to end up 1/16. Ill put a a4988 in to check, so I dont have to change the step setting under the board Good luck, don't forget to halve your steps/mm!by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
Have you tried going down to 16 microsteps? Maybe "Bandwidth" is the wrong word, what I meant was that you might be hitting the upper frequency limit of the 'step' input in the 8825 driver board. Going down to 16 microsteps shouldn't lose you any quality, but will halve the max frequency of that pin. There's also the 8825 decay hack, but I'm not sure that this applies in your case.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
QuoteElectric ant My bed is spirit level straight but when head is in centre at 0.1mm and I move it all the way to centre left, it is then 0.7mm from bed and 0.5mm all the way to centre right. So from approx. -X30 to -X85 the head raises up 0.6mm. These metal ends are the cause. This is usually caused by an incorrect delta radius. You need to fiddle with the delta_smooth_rod_offset in your fiby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
Hi GroupB, What you need to do is to lower the microstepping settings. Those 8825 boards can do 32 microsteps, I'd drop this down to 16 microsteps, and halve the steps per mm value in your config. This is usually achieved with jumpers underneath the board, or through your firmware. I'd imagine that you're running out of bandwidth in the 'step' signal line. I doubt that fiddling with the currby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Strange autolevel issue on Kossel XL - 10 years ago
Crosstalk? Perhaps your switch is set to be open when off the bed, and triggered when on the bed. If you haven't enabled the pullup on the Z_min pin, then crosstalk from your motors might be just enough to trigger the sensor.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: ABS Printing Bad (Cooling Issue?) - 10 years ago
ABS can benefit from a weak fan aimed at the bed from a distance, my marvins had all sorts of issues before I started using a fan. It's all about getting the balance right. Too much fan is just as bad as no fan.by nebbian - Printing
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
That looks amazing GroupB! QuoteGroupB I have done maybe 5-6 time your 6 point / 10 probe calibration( manually with paper) and its still not perfect im at .23 deviation right now , the calculator dont stop moving my tower around im now near 4 degree offset on X and im pretty sure when I build it up its was not that bad since I took my time and take million measurement, you think my bed thaby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Mobile 3D printing? - 10 years ago
Maybe look at a Printbite surface, apparently parts unstick all by themselves when the temperature drops below a certain point. Then you could have a flat scoop type thing attached to your extruder, and run some gcode to get your effector to push the parts off the bed into the bin, ready for the next one. You might have to set things up to not print a skirt, but just print a brim, that way youby nebbian - General
Re: Delta kossel calibration z-level good tutorials please? - 10 years ago
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1zubaHZcnuIWxRmRPNMKKIdb0FsUn6fhR_ywPZu8Y6QY/pubby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Best Sensor for ABL - 10 years ago
I just asked the seller how heavy the BLTouch is, and the reply was 10 grams. For interest's sake, I weighed my kossel mini's useless Z probe, including allen key, switch and mounting bolts. 13 grams. And that's for something that is difficult to set up, has poor repeatability, and never really seemed to work properly.by nebbian - General
Re: Bowden vs direct setup - 10 years ago
I agree with DJDemonD: Bowden is great to lower your effector mass, but keep that tube short. Here's the before and after shot that DJDemonD was talking about: This is with a bowden tube of about 10cm, vs the left image with a bowden tube of 5 times that. I was having all manner of crosstalk issues with the long bowden tube, but now I'm really happy with my prints (they've improved since thby nebbian - General
Re: Best Sensor for ABL - 10 years ago
Ah right. Correct me if I'm wrong, but all those solutions aren't easy to retrofit to a production printer with minimal downtime. A BLTouch it is then! Thanks for confirming itby nebbian - General
Re: Best Sensor for ABL - 10 years ago
Quotedc42 What sort of printer do you have? If it's a delta, you need a sensor that has low mass and can be placed very close to the nozzle. Yes, it's a delta (Kossel mini). Very well, what do you suggest, bearing in mind that I can't use your sensor due to not wanting to remove the existing PEI sheet on my bed?by nebbian - General
Re: wiring power to mini kossel with heating bed - 10 years ago
The same power supply should be able to supply both. However you might need a fan blowing on the polyfuses, because they do get quite hot and will shut down the power if you aren't careful. Lots of people replace the polyfuses with an external automotive fuse, plus a relay or SSR to switch the high current bed.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Best Sensor for ABL - 10 years ago
Is the BLTouch available for purchase now? If so where? The only place I could find was an indiegogo campaign, which had finished as far as I could tell. I had high hopes of using an IR sensor, but as I put my bed with PEI surface together before anyone had tried IR + PEI, I didn't paint the bottom black. Now the reflectance is too variable, and I didn't realise that PEI was transparent to IRby nebbian - General
Re: Making corners sharper - 10 years ago
Lower your acceleration values to 500. This will slow down at the corners, but speed up on the straights. Start at 500 and tune up or down from thereby nebbian - Printing
Re: Folger Tech Kossel Delta 2020 Full 3D Printer Kit w/Auto-Level - 10 years ago
QuoteEvilBetty I just tinned mine first. I tinned everything since the soldering iron was already out for the other tasks. I used to do that, until a really experienced technician I was working with showed me why that's a bad idea. Solder creeps. Try this experiment: Unwrap some solder from your reel and bend it so that there's a foot or so angled above the desk, supporting its own weight.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Kossel Mini xy calibration issue - 10 years ago
Good stuff Blueman, thanks for the info on Repetier. I've published the tilt meter here: Good luck finding your issue.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Kossel Mini xy calibration issue - 10 years ago
tbh I don't think that inaccuracies in the printer that printed the corners will have much effect, because you adjust the various lengths to get a perfect equilateral triangle top and bottom. Any inaccuracies will be taken care of when you do that adjustment. However inaccuracies in the dimensions of the effector may well cause lots of issues. First thing I'd do is check for effector tilt, usiby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: No extruded plastic every x centimetres - 10 years ago
The no extruded plastic is probably due to your extruder gear having some chewed up filament in it, it not being concentric with the shaft, or not enough pressure on the idler wheel. Not sure about the offset without seeing more pictures.by nebbian - Printing
Re: Kossel Mini xy calibration issue - 10 years ago
It's not your DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD, as I'm sure you're aware. You've got a mechanical issue in your build somewhere. Good luck finding it. Sadly, Marlin doesn't have separate X and Y scaling for deltas, unlike RepRapFirmware. But for RRF you need to spend hundreds of dollars on a 32 bit board and associated peripherals. So you're left with getting your build perfect. I've recently had the sby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
Hall effect sensors are probably not the best choice if you are mounting them near magnetic joints, with strong stepper motors as well. I'd try some optical or microswitch endstops.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
A simple op-amp comparator circuit would do what you want, with adjustable trigger voltage, infinite bits accuracyby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Can anyone explain what's going wrong here? - 10 years ago
What's your travel speed set to? How many microsteps are you using? I'd try setting the non-print travel speed down to something like 30 mm/s just to eliminate that variable.by nebbian - Printing