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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: The gap between nozzle and printed layer is too big - 10 years ago
Have you made sure that your steps per mm are correct for your Z direction? ie if you move up 100 mm, does the head actually move 100 mm further away from the build plate? Also ensure that your extrusion width is wider than your nozzle diameter. For a 0.4mm nozzle, try 0.45-0.6mm.by nebbian - Printing
Re: He3D 180 "almost" works. Please help. - 10 years ago
Your Z endstop is most likely triggered. Use the M119 command to see the end stop status.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
QuoteGroupB Today I finish installing the top frame and top bearing are in place, now im trying to install the bottom bearing and that where the fun start... because of the off specs bottom shaft with too long thread at the end (.375" and suppose to be .3 " ), I have to find a way to shorten my bearing housing , I cannot just move them closer because there is the 20X40 between the 2 housing and iby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: My first build, all metal delta "The Imp" - 10 years ago
Looking very nice there! I wish mine had that sort of stiffness and precision. I've spent the last week or two trying to tune out a persistent scaling issue in my printer, something that I'm sure yours won't have. Any reason why you went with rollers and not linear bearings?by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Stratifications around prints. - 10 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Looks like Z wobble, possibly combined with over extrusion, to me. Lemme guess, Prusa I3? See: On second examination, it really does look like Z-wobble. The wobble follows a helical path as it goes up the body of the print. Well spotted.by nebbian - Printing
Re: [Help] Rippling/pulsing effect when printing straight line - 10 years ago
Looks to me like you're not microstepping. Check the jumpers on your extruder driver board to ensure that you are microstepping the extruder.by nebbian - Printing
Re: Stratifications around prints. - 10 years ago
Looks like a cyclic error on your extruder. Possibly the drive gear is slipping in certain parts of the model, or the gear is not concentric with the shaft.by nebbian - Printing
Steps/mm: Don't assume! - 10 years ago
For the last couple of weeks I've been on a crusade to calibrate my printer so that it gives perfectly dimensioned parts. This has led me down a rabbit hole of: Creating a new calibration piece that is independant of extrusion errors Rebuilding my diagonal rods Shimming my rod mounts so that all pairs are within 0.05mm difference between top and bottom Using PLA instead of ABS Getting all toweby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
Quotehacker Sounds like it can go close to 300 then, right? I wouldn't go that high, most I'd go would be 265. But then again I scare easilyby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
The PTFE tube butts up against the top of the heatbreak. So it goes down as far as the bottom of the heatsink in the cold part. I've had my hotend apart before, there was no evidence of melting/burning/discolouration on the tube. So I think it's pretty safe, as long as your hotend fan keeps going.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
Quotehacker QuoteDRTak I also have the sintron E3D hotend and/or clone. Whatever SIntron includes in their kit. What I meant to say is that I have e3d e3d. And I mention that because I don't know what's the temperature limit for sintron's hotend and if it's allowed to go as far as 250. It's all-metal, I've had mine up to 255 before now.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Trouble with larger prints sticking - 10 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotenebbian I've never understood the advice to set the height at which paper just snags as 0. This doesn't take into account the thickness of the sheet of paper. 80 gsm paper (your normal printer paper) is pretty close to 0.1mm thick. Hence the advice I received when calibrating, to set the height at which paper just snags to 0.1mm. If you calibrate your paper snagging height to 0by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Nozzle too close to the print? - 10 years ago
If you're sure that your steps per mm is correct, then you might be having problems due to warping and poor cooling. Try aiming a desk fan at the part, just a gentle breeze. This often helps me with parts that warp upwards, grab the nozzle, and transfer a lot of heat to the part.by nebbian - General
Re: Trouble with larger prints sticking - 10 years ago
QuoteAce67aod So after i remeasure and compensate with the H parameter then i check zero after an auto-cal my paper snags at zero but HARDLY snags... So it seems almost as if this is still not enough to squish the first layer (usually only in the middle the skirt prints fine) is there something else i could be missing to make this happen? I've never understood the advice to set the height at whiby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: The "Flying Extruder" Mod - 10 years ago
Man alive, the designer of that printer has some interesting ideas. I would never have thought of using an angle grinder wheel as an effector, but I guess it's light, stiff and heat resistant. Amazing! And that's not the only innovation on that printer. Gosh.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Printing with Pronterface compared to straight from SD card? - 10 years ago
I use both, and can't detect any differences between using an SD card and USB. Well, apart from the SD card prints not stopping when I plug in a USB camera to monitor it, of course. tbh SD card prints seem to work a bit better, as the communication is not limited to the baud rate of a USB-Serial connection. Sometimes with complex paths I can hear the printer stutter when using USB, whereas wheby nebbian - Printing
Re: The "Flying Extruder" Mod - 10 years ago
Thanks Rollingdice, it's fantastic to see my design on someone else's printer! I can see the problem you've got -- you've cleverly mounted the hotend a lot higher than most people do, which minimises effector tilt issues and gives you more build volume. But it also increases the leverage on the effector by the bowden cable. That plus the magnetic joints are the issue. I would try making youby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Help Calibrating Delta - Printing issue - 10 years ago
By print surface, I mean the shape of the path that the effector travels along. This is different to your heatbed or glass that you print on Hmmm well if your steps per mm are spot on (and it does appear to be so), then you might try carefully measuring your diagonal rods (centre to centre). Be sure to measure from the centre of one ball to the centre of the other ball on the same rod. Ensuby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Help Calibrating Delta - Printing issue - 10 years ago
Have you tried printing a large circle that is centred on the middle of your bed? This will show any miscalibration clearly. It looks to me like your print surface is crinkled like this: If so, then this is caused by an incorrect steps per mm value in your firmware. The easiest way to measure this is to: Home your printer Zero a pair of calipers on the top rail, and the carriage Move theby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
Noitome, I printed that LCD cover and it did work for a while, but I found it to be weak and not really suitable for our machines. Here's one that I printed recently, which works quite well: Here it is attached to my printer. I had to drill some holes to make it fit the sintron dimensions, but that was easy and worked well.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
QuoteDRTak Nebbian. I agree with you on that. When I had ramps it was really fast. But 2 things I have done to make it slow. This is my guess. I added a round glass plate to the top. And I added about 2ft of extra 12-14gauge wire to go from the heatbed to the electronics on top. Im assuming this is what is making it take so long to heat up the bed. Hmmm well that's strange. If you were gettinby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
DrTak, To help with the heatbed, I did the following: 30A Automotive relay plus inline 15A fuse, due to rubbish fuse on the Ramps. You might not need to do this. Turn up the voltage on the power supply to 14V Use good quality 16ga silicone insulated wire Insulate the bottom of the bed with cardboard and aluminium roofing tape As mentioned before, this setup goes from room temperature to 105 inby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteDRTak Right now however, I decided to move up to using up my last spool of ABS. The duet is having issues heating up the hotbed beyond 97deg. I might have to test the hotbed and maybe try for 95 deg or lower and see if ABS sticks. Don't blame the Duet for not getting above 97C, the problem is almost certainly an under-powered bed heater. This is very common with PCB bed heaters. Tby nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Prints skewing to Y max - 10 years ago
Also check that the pulley isn't slipping on the motor shaft.by nebbian - Printing
Re: Prints skewing to Y max - 10 years ago
Try lowering your acceleration. It still looks like skipped steps in the Y plane to me, that creates a random offset that you are getting.by nebbian - Printing
Re: Prints skewing to Y max - 10 years ago
Looks like skipping steps to me. You need to bump up the stepper motor current slightly for you Y axis, I assume you haven't tuned this yet? Plenty of tutorials online to show you how to do this. Alternatively you can lower your acceleration settings, but this is just masking the problem.by nebbian - Printing
Re: Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit - 10 years ago
Nice work Levon, that's a fantastic first print! Looks like you're well on the way to printing some nice objects.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Re: Material buildup by transfer movement - Cura/PrusaBig/PLA - 10 years ago
Don't forget to speed up the retraction max speed in your firmware. I was having lots of issues before figuring out that my speed was being restricted in firmware. The secret is to move so fast between points that there isn't time to ooze. You need a fast retract, and a fast travel speed. Once I had those tuned, the little strings haven't appeared again. Hope this helps.by nebbian - Printing
Re: Strange blobs while printing - 10 years ago
3) Printing using USB, the computer pauses for some reason, and the printer stops and a blob forms. Try printing using an SD card.by nebbian - General
Re: Axis move, but do nothing wehen told to home - 10 years ago
Your home speed might be faster than the drivers/steppers can keep up with. Try halving it and seeing what happens.by nebbian - General