My issue turned out to be related to the steps per unit value. My marlin config had this set to 100, it should have been 80. The sintron kit uses 20 teeth on each pulley. Progress! The crinkled print surface is now gone. I'll post my config soon when I'm confident that it's correct. It's looking good now though.by nebbian - Delta Machines
It's a good idea to use the development version, I'll do that tonight. Thanks for the idea! The limit switch works perfectly, and my printer can run through a complete calibration (including deploying and retracting the probe) just fine... most of the time. Sometimes, however, it goes totally crazy. I don't know if this is related to heat, software or gremlins. Who knows. In a related note,by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteMiamicraft 1. Did you use the Sintron Marlin firmeware? 2. Did you do the G28 (home) followed by a G29 (auto level) before printing? Sintron's software seems to be set up to handle it. Thanks Roger, good to hear that you're getting close! I'm keen to have another working printer to compare notes on. Answers as follows: 1) I used the software that was linked in the Sintron PDF, which maby nebbian - Delta Machines
Hmmm. Well, progress tonight at least. I pulled the arduino/ramps out and had it outside the bed while printing, but nothing got hot at all. I'm now thinking that it's to do with the auto level procedure, or my bad calibration. Anyway I got a print going! I'm amazed at how fast and precise this thing could be. My issue at the moment is that although the print head is at the right height inby nebbian - Delta Machines
Well I melted some plastic yesterday However it didn't stick to the bed. And when putting some painters tape on there I realised that one side of my bed wasn't attached properly, and then began a descending spiral of calibration. I'm convinced that turning the hotend on causes the RAMPS board to overheat. I've got a 40mm fan coming soon to try to remedy that situation, I'm pretty sure that pby nebbian - Delta Machines
Quotefattmann 4) I have seen the the use of "Zmin" but not "Xmin or Ymin." I was under the impression that there is only the endstops at the top of the rails? Sorry I'm not sure on that question. Some build manuals say to put jumpers on the pins that are used for x min and y min endstops. You won't actually have endstops there, just jumpers on the RAMPS board. I'm not sure if it will help.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Quotefattmann If the correct orientation is with the potentiometer facing towards the AUX4 pins, that is, away from the power block, then yes. As per the screenshot of the spreadsheet I posted, I have dialed in 0.35v for the X, Y, and Z stepper drivers, and 0.60v for the Extruder stepper driver. Is that what you mean by the "adjustable current sense voltage"? Ah fair enough. Yep that's whatby nebbian - Delta Machines
Did you put the stepper motor drivers in the correct orientation? Have you measured the adjustable current sense voltage on them?by nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteMagicFilament I have been reading that the arduino mega doesnt seem to work on mac os x yosemite. This is not true, my RAMPS 1.4 board works fine with my mac running Yosemite (OSX 10.10.1).by nebbian - Reprappers
Quotekingoddball Two quick questions; one: Whats a Nebbian? Two: Z probe; is this required for anything? One: It's a made up word consisting of my name backwards, plus some stuff on the end to make it sound like a real word. There are many like it but this one is mine Two: I've no idea. It's part of the reprap design, and it seems to work, so I built it. I'm yet to print anything, ever, soby nebbian - Delta Machines
G'day Reaper Mine is just about ready to print, here are the extra parts I used: Traxxas ball joints (part 5347) Assorted M3 screws and washers A small amount of aluminium angle to mount the electronics High power 12V connector 16 AWG wire Flexible 28? AWG wire for the head fan and Z sensor Heatshrink in various sizes Small cable ties Optional: Extra 40mm fan for the electronics bay (probablyby nebbian - Delta Machines
Thanks for the ideas, it helps immenselyby nebbian - Delta Machines
Hi all, I've been searching everywhere but can't find the information I'm after. Basically I need to know how to remove the roll of PLA from my machine after I've finished printing. I'm concerned that if I just pull the filament out while the head is still hot, that it might wipe molten plastic through the bowden tube. And if I do it cold then it probably won't come out. Also I want to put tby nebbian - Delta Machines
Hmmm it might be set in software I guess. I haven't been able to find it. Screws are pretty quick to adjust, and are easy to understand Here's a good starting point for this kit, it's calibrated to my setup, as well as having a bugfix to stop the probe from crashing into the bed when you do a bed calibration. Next step: melting plastic!by nebbian - Delta Machines
Good stuff Roger, I'm enjoying seeing the progress that others are making Calibration continues... Couple of tips for those treading the same path: Install screws on the carriages so you can adjust the endstop trip position precisely Install a 40mm fan to cool your electronics bay Wire up your hotend fan to always spin when power is applied (don't ask) See if you can make your heated bed easby nebbian - Delta Machines
Here you go Rossini: I wired up the endstops with all 3 wires, as I wanted the cool red LEDs to light up when the switches were triggered. They work Almost none of the wires were long enough to reach the circuit board easily, so they were all extended with the 20cm ribbon extension cable provided in the kit. That's why the colours are all over the place. Also I had a problem thisafternby nebbian - Delta Machines
Almost all the wiring is shown here (everything except the wiring for the heat bed). And... Voila! Ready for calibration! I'm using a 20 amp power supply for the moment, until I can print out a cover for the one they provide. I think it's just too dangerous having 240 volts floating around without proper insulation over it. Please ask any questions you might have about how to put yourby nebbian - Delta Machines
Heated bed In the 20 years that I've owned this soldering iron, I've never had to turn it up to full. That just changed. This heatbed just wicks away the heat (which is a good thing I guess). The only way I could get a good solder joint was to heat the joint up with a heat gun, while pressing the maxxed out soldering iron onto the joint. Since we're using 12V for the heat bed, the negatiby nebbian - Delta Machines
One of the first things you're going to want to print with your printer is the bracket that holds the RAMPS and arduino board in place. I don't have a printer (yet) so had to make do with some scraps of aluminium angle. I'm still not sure whether to put the electronics in the top or the bottom. The top is sort of better because you don't have to run your cables as far, and also don't haveby nebbian - Delta Machines
The provided Z sensor attachment object was too big, it was fouling on the hotend. So I replaced it with a small terminal block: Much better! It seems to retract and trigger properly now.by nebbian - Delta Machines
More progress: The top bearings seemed a little bit too close together for me, as the belt seemed to hit the flanges slightly. So I added a thin 3mm washer between the bearings. The belt rides nicely now. Here's how I'm attaching the belts to the carriage. More dremel work *sigh* Half the teeth are removed, and the lower end of the belt is set up to grip the teeth of the top end of the belby nebbian - Delta Machines
Quoteo_lampe When you put the endstops right to the top, you aren´t able to print full width at that height. In order to use the full print envelop you have to allow the carrier to move past the endswitch. ( and disable max_software_endstop ) I´m gonna use optical sensors to achieve this, but haven´t thought of a bracket yet. -Olaf Good point, although the carriages can't physically move past tby nebbian - Delta Machines
End Stops The mounting method recommended by Sintron isn't exactly stable... there are a number of issues with this. I wasn't happy with the design anyway. So with a couple of round washers, some small screws and nylon M3 hardware, I was able to fabricate some brackets that seem a lot more sturdy.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Rod end length It helps if you make up a jig to get all your rod ends the same length. Here is one I made from some bits of aluminium angle, with screws and T nuts provided in the kit. Try as hard as you can to get all your rod ends exactly the same length.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Getting your frame lined up When first putting your frame together, a really handy tool to have is a digital angle finder. I picked this one up from my local hardware store for around $25. You need to go around your frame, making sure that all your angles are exactly 60 degrees. When I first tried this, one angle was 60.4, the others were 58.8 despite trying to push the extrusions fully in.by nebbian - Delta Machines
Traxxas rod ends You will need, clockwise from top left: A small dish with ice, water and salt A cup of boiling hot water A packet of rod ends A chopping board Pay careful attention to the rod ends. The side with a shiny ring is the side you want the ball to slide into, as it is wider than the other side. The one on the left has a shiny ring showing. Dump the metal balls into the ice baby nebbian - Delta Machines
Thought I'd post a couple of tips I've come across while building this kit. Parts preparation * Remove the anti-lift pads, and any extra strings left lying around: * Bevel the edges of the hole where the 2020 will be inserted * After driving the 2020 through the corner with a mallet, it will create these shavings. This is fine. * To get the aluminium extrusion out of the corner piece, yoby nebbian - Delta Machines
QuoteZulance Before I go the route of buying a new board, what is the difference between these imitation boards, and the real boards? The USB-Serial converter chip is the main difference. You need to find the driver for your particular board. If in windows you'll have to go to the device manager and ensure that it creates a valid serial port. If on a mac you need to run this: ls /dev/tty* beby nebbian - Delta Machines
Check that the bearings inside the rollers themselves aren't completely shot. I'm running into exactly this issue on a new build (different manufacturer, same idea). It seems that some of the bearings are really loose, leading to the slop you're seeing. Try grabbing the effector and trying to tilt it in every direction. You'll see the bad wheels slopping around. If anyone knows where to geby nebbian - Delta Machines