Yeah I had that short problem. You most likely blew the 5v regulator on the Arduino board. It then only worked connected to the USB port. Used it for a bit that way and ended up blowing a MOSFET perhaps because the regulator was out of whack. So I just replaced the RAMPS and Arduino. If you want to adjust the regulators, take it off of the mains power supply and just keep the USB in. It's enby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks. I'll figure out what to do. I may just keep the original wires, combine them, and just go direct into RAMPS. It's not as clean as yours, but then again I don't have to worry about the extension wire gauge. I had the issue of using a soldering iron on a PCB with RAMPS, and it wouldn't melt the solder. If you melt non lead solder over it, it will all heat up and melt allowing you toby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotevoyager Hey dude, I also trust a good ATX PSU way more then a Chinese hung low brand. My Corsair VS450 has one rail with 34 amps, it had 12 12v cables, the 6 pin PCI-E had some thicker cables. I wanted to make a nice adapter cable, but there are so many ATX revisions that it remained unclear how much a connector could handle. And then you have 4 pin connectors with normal pins, gold pins tby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
I have the Thermal take smart 500W so it should work fine, which it does. I just have to find a way not to burn up wires perhaps using more of the 12v combined. I don't think it's a big deal to leave wires you don't use or use extension cables but obviously I'm not doing it the right way.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
I didn't want to destroy the PSU, so I used this method at the bottom. In theory it should work the same a cutting up a supply. I'm not sure if only using 4 pins of the CPU connector with 8 writes is causing the overload and the writes to melt. I suppose I could try using the 8 pins and see if it makes a difference. Or perhaps take all of the 12v writes than remain for use in the heat bed.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's 35A on one rail for 12V. Total output is 500W. It's a quality PSU, so I don't know why it is frying my wires. Perhaps because they are 18 gauge, but there are 4 tied together for each positive and negative. I don't know if I want to mess with a new heat bed, so perhaps the China PSU is my only options as I can put 14 gauge wire on it, which just gets warm and doesn't melt.by mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm running a 12v 200W silicone heater. Initially, it was hooked up to a 25A LED China PSU. When the bed temp was 75C, I had no problem running my hotend at 260C (temp for my specific PETG). The PETG was sticking too well to the Kapton causing it to bubble, so I bought a glas bed and uaing some hairspray. I raised the temp to 85 because glass is about 10C cooler than the Kapton. I have a probleby mlaustin66 - Prusa i3 and variants
While I am no expert, I think I have encountered enough problems to potentially help you. If you were using the exact same print settings as prior to the board change and if you didn't change the firmware configuration, it should print as it did before. I had to do a board change, and my results were the same. Make sure those settings are the same especially the esteps. It looks like you coulby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
Most Arduino board clones have the CH340 drivers. You can follow this website to get the driver in the first post. I have a Mac, and that got it to connect. I can move the motors and turn on the heatbed. But I can't turn on the hot end for some reason. I'm ok with that as I have a Windows 10 virtual machine that I use to run manual gcode commands such as PID autotune.I use my Mac repetier fby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
So I've been doing a lot of tweaking and thought I'd share some results. I finally got this to print rather well. I'll share my settings in case anyone else is having a hard time with PETG. I'm usimg Maker Geek's brand. The spool says 260C, and I find that to be accurate. I've tried all sorts of speeds. These settimgs apply to Slic3r and to most extent S3D. First, let's talk about coolimg. Iby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
So prior to moving over to glass, I had my heatbed at 75C and had no issues with my hotend going to 260C or 265C. Since glass is a shitty conductor, I needed to raise my bed temp to 85C to get it to actually be at 75C. With the bed at 85C, my hot end is a few degrees off from where it should be. It's been PID auto tuned as well as the bed. Without the bed on, it gets to temp and maintains itby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
So the fix did not work. In finding a thread with a similar problem, it seems that the PETG sticks too well to the Kapton tape. So after repeated removals it causes the tape to slightly lift each time and ultimately forms air bubbles. I switched to glass and hairspray for now, and that seems to work well.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
I have a Bowden drive with an E3dv6 hotend. Retraction is set a 2mm and 45mm/s. I've had the distance higher before, but I read a blog post or some article on E3D's website saying not to go beyond 2mm because the filament will get into the cool zone potentially causing issues.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
I'm having problems with layers bulging and not adhering. To me, it looks like an over and under extrusion problem and am not sure how to correct it. It seems like the base layer prints fine and aligns pretty good. The layers on top of the base layer get all crazy. Some extrusions are fatter than the perimeter of the base layer. Some are normal for several layers before a problem occurring.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
So I fixed this problem. I had the first layer temp at 75C and the rest at 60C. It was cooling to quick in relation to the plastic I suppose, and bubbles were forming. I switched it to 75C for the whole print, and now I don't get bubbles. I get an outline of the print that goes away after rubbing my finger across it. Thanks for all the responses.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the response. I got it working again. I measured the filament over a 30 foot stretch. so I think we are good there. I was printing at .5mm extrusion width with a .4mm nozzle. I had the extrusion multiplier set for .5mm. I fixed that problem and reset the extrusion multiplier. I then opened the extruder to see if any plastic was caught in the teeth. It was fin. I retightened theby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
This just started happening, and I'm not sure why. My E steps were calibrated 2 days ago. I thought the hotend might be clogged, and I used the metal flow to see if that was the case. No real clog issue were present. The bed was just re-leveled before this print. I don't even know where to begin on this one. What could be the issue?by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
Hello, I'm using PETG. I don't want the print fans to be on unless certain criteria are met, so I use the auto on feature. With that setting enabled, I have the fan set to 100% when bridging occurs. However, I printed one of those bridge test stl's, and the fan does not come on. The only way to get the fan on is with the always on setting. How do I get slic3r to kick in the fans during a brby mlaustin66 - Slic3r
I replaced the z axis rods, and the rods are much straighter than the last set. The Z axis shift is considerably less but still slightly there. What can I do now to make this more fine tuned and exact?by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
In looking at this further in various searches., it is possible this is a z axis wobble issue. I'm going to try messing around with that. Any other suggestions would be welcome.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
I'm getting close to having all issues ironed out. The one I can't resolve is inconsistencies in the way layers are being laid down. I'm using PETG. My hotend is 260C based on manufactures recommendation and some tinkering. The bed is at 75C. I fine tuned my E steps and other calibrations based on Triffid Hunter's calibration guide. The X and Y belts are pretty tight. The X axis is level.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
The bubbles formed on a new sheet. And I tried to print other prints in different spots on the Kapton before doing any popping. All new spots I tested did the same thing. In order to get the bubbles out, I had to use the needle. There were absolutely no bubble under it when first applied. I tried the wet method and still had the same issue. Perhaps I will try applying a new sheet with the bby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
Quotethe_digital_dentist How are you removing the prints? I wait until the print gets to room temperature. They come off fairly easy. If it's a taller part I loosen one corner by hand and then use a flexible spatula (drywall kind) to pop it off. If the part is smaller and hard to grip, I will get a corner lifted with the spatula or a razor blade and then pop the rest off with the spatula.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
Quotethe_digital_dentist Do any bubbles form under the kapton if you just heat up the bed? None. Only when I remove the part.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
I have an 8" x 8" piece of 2 mil Kapton on top of my aluminum bed plate. I applied it with zero bubbles not using a soapy solution. Starting out with a corner and keeping tight enough tension while peeling back the backing worked amazingly well. I am printing PETG starting with 75C on the first layer and then dropping to 60C for the rest of the print. The particular filament that I have printby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
I got the new boards today. One of the mosfets is blown. Lesson learned not to test volts with main power plugged in. USB should be plenty of volts for these parts.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
So I pulled off the Arduino board, and there is a fried smell coming off of the RAMPS board after trying to do a print. So something else may have shorted out, because I cannot get Slicer to show the print preview, and running a print starts the machine but no filament comes out. This is when hooked up to the computer. Not sure if that smell means the RAMPS is fried. So plugging the Arduino bby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
So that would be an Arduino issue I take it. Probably easier to just buy a new board since it works now with a computer, and I'm going to have to remove everything.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
I shorted the extruder A4998 stepper when I was trying to measure voltage. There was a burning smell coming from the board. Luckily I had a spare. Now I'm having some weird problems that I need help with. When I'm connected to my computer, all is well. I can see the LCD. Manual controls work fine. Sending prints works fine. All is good. When I disconnect from the computer to use the LCDby mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics
In case anyone else has this problem, I found the solution on another forum. Apparently the resisters were touching that caused some kind of short. Here is the picture from the other forum.by mlaustin66 - General Mendel Topics