make sure the thermistor is secure and the heater element is tight in the block, I used high temp silicone to hold my thermistor in even try another thermistorby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
increase the brim width in your slicing program at least 1 mm or try 2 as it helpsby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
make sure your cooling fan isn't lowering nozzle temp too much as the material won't melt fast enough to keep up and as stated extruder not cloggedby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
a lot of us are working on that what I find happening is the plate attached to the y axis rods with bearings and belt clips that your bed sits on is bending when you tighten/adjust the four corners especially on the diagonals from each other the front left becomes too close and as you tighten to increase bed gap it causes the back left to go farther away from the bed .If you undo the leveling scrby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
I have this issue if my bed is fully forward the back left corner is always low adjusting Z for proper distance when I go to the left front it is so high the adjuster needs to be too tight if you go to the front right loosen and tighten it while measuring back left you will notice the y axis acrylic bearings plate will bend up and down and its on the side with only one bearing. My thought was toby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
ok let me enlighten you if you had only one receptacle on the board and you have 2 Z steppers then the black and blue from Stepper 1 go out to plug you hook up , the red and green from Stepper 2 go to that same plug. Now the red from Stepper 1 gets twisted to the blue from Stepper 2. Then the green from Stepper 1 gets twisted to the black on Stepper 2. the twisted wires do not go to the plug at aby Roger123D - General
Simple solution cut plug off unused stepper few inches long put stepper away take plug with the 4 wires strip off some insulation plug it into the board and find which Z axis receptacle gives you a voltage on the black while telling the Z to go up and down once you find it take the stepper you are using cut the black and blue wire and connect to this plug then take the plug already on stepper witby Roger123D - General
It puzzles me why people use heated beds when printing with PLA or PETG. When I first got my printer kit the pre assembled bed MK2 came covered with blue painters tape. I started with PLA and could not get it to stick, tried glues no luck until I got the proper nozzle to bed distance correct then things started to stick but the aluminum plate was uneven high on edges low in middle like Detroit stby Roger123D - Printing
look thru prusia i3 variants section find a posting that has 1N4148 in its listing we talk of adding a relay output allowing you to use any voltage heater with separate power supplyby Roger123D - Reprappers
I am using filaments.ca PETG no heated bed on glass with glue stick first layer 215 C 2nd layer 210 without fan as the fan lowers nozzle temp and at 200 extruder clicks MK8 direct drive and prints are so good almost afraid to raise tempsby Roger123D - Printing
Those axes most likely belt driven you may be feeling the belts turning the steppers as you move them. If it was me I would undo each bearing from the carriage and slide them along the rods to see if they run smooth and replace any bad ones. You could take the bearing off the rod to get down inside to put some bearings grease in them but that won't help if they are worn or full of dirt. Check rodby Roger123D - Reprappers
Check out the IGUS web site they have 5 to 8 mm coupler without that spring section instead they use an isolation material zlw 0630s nema 17by Roger123D - Reprappers
If you are going to use a relay then you should use a 120 volt heater element 1.5Kw add some oil and bread and print or fry some shrimp. Since it seems the original board is feeding the now heater with a MOSFET transistor you need to put a diode in parallel with 12 volt DC only coil of the relay measure with a meter to get the + and - wires correct the relay doesn't care how you connect but theby Roger123D - Reprappers
My printer came with a Melzi resembling version 2 and an MK8 extruder which I have torn apart a few times for general cleaning but the printer has worked as expected when I see others nightmare posts on here it makes me appreciate mine. While far from great with acrylic not its best aspect all the motors worked no overheat but don't expect support from China frankly you don't need them. This is mby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Have a newer Afinibot but problem would be common to all similar designs. The 2 lead screws (some threaded rods) have aluminum couplers between the steppers and these rods that are used to alleviate Z axis wobble and misalignment of the drive screw etc. The design of these couplers make them like 2 large springs when the bed/Z height is set if you push on the X carriage you can see the coupler coby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
When I rebuilt mine I threw away the Kapton tape never to use again removed the nozzle and heated out all plastic pulled out the thermistor and heater cartridge, removed the block and then the barrel and cleaned the teflon tube out. Reassembly on the MK8 required threading barrel up into extruder till it stops threading a nut up till it stops and snugging up. Put the nozzle into the block threaby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
If your trying to design things and not familiar with CAD try Autodesk 123 Design as it is fairly easy to learn and is aimed at 3D printing and free for personal use with a site for uploading or downloading others work but there are other programs FreeCad is more versatile but harder to learn everyone has their own preferences. There are a lot of 3D communities on Google+ as well for help. Look uby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Well if nozzle is clogged the extruder should have been clicking like mad and after 30 minutes wore a hole in the filament. If nozzle was to high it should have a glob of filament melted around it and a pile of squiggly filament somewhere. Heat it up to 200 again and push the filament in and it should come out the nozzle then pull it and it should come out with a melted string of filament on theby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
I am currently in a design phase using a steel frame shaped like an I3 no printed parts, no steel rods, zero backlash lead screws or belt drives, Nema 17 or 23 steppers, any bed size, Travel 5 meters/second, any extruders using Texas Instruments TIDA 0045 electronics, my main purpose is a machine that is mechanically square and adjustable.to replace an acrylic model I have now. Have all the sourcby Roger123D - General
I think you /we had more fun with our meccano sets and mold masters. The true joy of 3D printing is not in a hunk of plastic picked off a bed but more in the process of getting there masters of a unique societyby Roger123D - General
You can get it from the Robot Shop see their web site look under tools and accessories section under 3D parts $ 9.59 Canadian cw teflon insert they have thermistors, heaters,feed gears fans nozzles for the MK8 even the aluminum block..www.robotshop.com and very reliable sourceby Roger123D - General
The true fact of the matter is every roll of filament is different two identical brands of PLA of different colors even print a little different best to just print a test block first.by Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
When you are connected to the computer forget about the LCD display leave it at printer ready don't set any temps there All the print,printer and filament settings are done through the slicing program before compiling. In my case Slic3r (not Repetier) are used to set filament diameter and temperature settings and a mess of other settings you eventually learn to change as needed. What you do needby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
When you go back to Repetier site to get Host you can bypass the donation its still free. There is also available a Repetier configuration program. You should be able to go to Windows and add new hardware ie the printer which most likely has all the settings in the Eprom without the SD card I never use my SD card it sits in a drawer. What specific printer and board does it have as I may have driby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
what you should have is Repetier Host V0.95F or later it can be downloaded where you found Server and is a different program. I am using Windows 10. You got an SD card and it should have all the files you need or the PDF should have links to those files. Don't erase the SD you have just get a new one everything may be on it. Sounds like the computer isn't connecting to the printer to see this hitby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Anybody have any experience with the BondTec extruder ?by Roger123D - Reprappers
If your looking for a much easier way out than finding all that stuff look at the Afinibot A3 from Robot Shop in Quebec as the kit comes with ALL bearings smooth rods lead screws steppers LCD belts gears everything in a nice packaged box an ok MK8 extruder all for about $450 free shipping to you. All software on SD card uses Repetier and Slic3r in kit form and I have found it to be a good printeby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
Well you answered your question the key here is it is made for 3 mm not 1.75 so either try some 3 mm filament or get the 1.75 version perhaps you can adapt it with a PTFE tube to make the barrel smaller I know they make both sizes best bet is to contact the actual makers of this hotend for a fix. The main purpose for all metal was to run hotter material like nylon whose temp would melt PTFE and tby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
The paper isnt being moved it is like a blood pressure monitor the nozzle pinches the paper to the point it won't move and just sitting there not pulling the paper it expands almost half a mm above the bed if I wait 15 to 20 seconds it goes back to super tight and this repeats not up down but uuuuuppppppp ddddooooowwwnnn about 30 second intervals..There is no power to anything nothing is being moby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants
I have an Afinibot A3 non auto level. While trying to level the back left corner I noticed that the paper slide loosely as per normal with height too high but before I could adjust it the paper suddenly got real tight then it got loose again so I waited and the paper became tight again and kept repeating this. Thinking this was an oscillating stepper I disconnected from printer and even pulled thby Roger123D - Prusa i3 and variants