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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 Quotethe_digital_dentist I noticed that the heatsink in the hot-end because quite warm while it was printing. I think that mounting the cooling fans directly on the hot-end like the E3D approach would keep them a lot cooler and maybe prevent some jams with PLA. Where did they put the hot end cooling fan then, if it wasn't either on the hot end, or on the print head and ducted to the hby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
So, here is how I solved the problem of V6's not being tall enough to use the scraper, and gave the clones a considerable upgrade too. I started with two V6 clones I had laying around and machined their ends to match the cubex original and attached them to the volcano style heater block. Upon realizing that to reach the scraper, the aluminum bar that crushes the extruder would only be half on tby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
QuoteDancook My set up probably isn't the best practice, but since it's been working perfectly, I haven't touched it. IMHO, that is actually best practice, that way any slicer can easily use your printer, rather than correcting for poorly configured firmware in the slicer (I actually use my slicer to set the offesets of my extruders, which isn't best practice, but convenient instead of reflashinby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
thats because the home position is 0,0 and is off the bed. 0,0 should be at the corner of the bed configure your endstop settings so it knows that its at negative coordinates at its home positionby DaGameFace - General
Re: Temperature not stable...... - 9 years ago
is it varying wildly at room temp as well?by DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Got all my axis running, and turns out Ill be using v6 hotends ( youll have to wait and see how I got the extra height), It is homing correctly with the reed switch on my x axis, but the Y was not, tried replacing the Y switch with the Z, again no luck. I think that I damaged my Z axis reed switch in the removal process and not sure how the Y died. I would rather not have to convert my Y to a mecby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
What voltage should you use for drv8825s? Mine are getting really hot quite quickly, tried an a4988 as well with same result.. edit: around .6 V is the lowest I can go and still move my Z axis, turns out it does not get hot at this temp, I had mistaken which way to turn the pot. to decrease voltageby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
interesting thing about lightening the x carriage by using bowden is it does allow faster printing, but bowden is inferior to direct drive. But if you take the time to calibrate a bowden setup perfectly it will be damn close to direct drive. I had to go to bowden when I went dual extruder on my prusa, while it works the long tubing run causes long retractions and the elasticity of filaments (espby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Oh and as for reinforcing the frame for more rigidity especially since I have so much damaged acrylic and don't plan on using ABS (fumes are a no go as the printer lives in my bedroom), both of which mean I dont have an enclosure for support. I am thinking about using adjustable steel cables in an X from corner to corner on the sides and maybe back of the printer. this would help with the flex caby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Anyone figured out the steps per mm on the axis' (if so please also mention your microstepping)? I am using an evga 500W and the my first arduino board with my spare ramps board (the 5v reg got fried when I was a nub and accidentally installed an endstop wrong, 5v rail from molex solved that though). Replacing that with the sainsmart 2 in 1 as I feel it genuinely deserves the "better than ramps"by DaGameFace - General
Re: Standby temp on RAMPS + S3D? - 9 years ago
a thought occured to me, I suppose I could post process the gcode with a .bat that looks for: T0 command and inserts M104 S180 T1 after it and: T1 command and insets M109 S190 T1 before it anyone know how to do that?by DaGameFace - General
Standby temp on RAMPS + S3D? - 9 years ago
as far as I can tell if I want to make my PVA nozzle to cool down while not in use I would use a G10 (G10 Pnnn Xnnn Ynnn Znnn Rnnn Snnn, where Rnnn is standby temp and Snnn is active temp) but this isnt even supported by marlin how do I go about doing this with a Ramps with marlin? I thought S3D may have the option somewhere but I havent found it there eitherby DaGameFace - General
Re: HELP!! With configuration on Prusa i3 m-505 PLEASE! - 9 years ago
it would help if you were more specific. Is there something that isn't working properly or is it even working at all?by DaGameFace - Prusa i3 and variants
Re: What CAD software? POLL - 9 years ago
wow, didn't expect this to be such an active thread, so much great information and suggestionsby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
yeah, i guess i just appreciate the thought that went into the hotend, they had better ideas than results. Oh, so because I am not going to be using the plexi frame I will no longer have a basment to hide stuff in, but I found out that you can fit an ATX powersupply on the back left side of the printer between the leadscrew and smooth rail for the Z (think mirror image of the scraper bin). Oh hby DaGameFace - General
Re: Anyone use PETG on PrinteBite? - 9 years ago
thank you! wasn't too concerned about taking a chip out of it but was worried that it was intentionally left off the compatibility list due to some weird interaction between the materials. not sure when I will go through with the project, may have to wait for summer, definately after my cube x at any rateby DaGameFace - General
Re: Printer stops after 1 1/2 hours printing - 9 years ago
max temp errors can also be caused by EMF radiation from nearby PSU wires, may want to make sure your thermistor wires arent too close to any 12v lines (running them near heater wires should be fine)by DaGameFace - Printing
Re: RepRapDiscount smart controller strange characters - 9 years ago
can we have some more info about your printer setup? controller board is the main thing. you may just have the language set wrong. not ruling out the possibility of just having the wrong lcd selected in firmware eitherby DaGameFace - Reprappers
Anyone use PETG on PrinteBite? - 9 years ago
so, i cant seem to find anyone who has, but the google results are so cluttered with people talking about petg "biting" into their bed as well as a lot of stuff about wolfbite, whatever that is. PETG is not listed as an officially supported filament but that doesn't always mean that you cant make it work. thought I would ask before buying some for an upcomming projectby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
wire the two fans in series? LEDs not sure though, resistors to drop the voltage?by DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
now that im home i measured mine and yeah, 75.5 mm on the nose (strange its dimensional drawings say otherwise..). The more I looked at the design of the stock hotend the more I liked it, its design is very well insulated, both on the hotend with the clay looking material packed around the heater, as well as the cold end being insulated in two ways from the hot end, the various holes drilled in tby DaGameFace - General
Re: 3D Fractals and FDM printing - 9 years ago
Quotefrankvdh QuoteYou want to rip off an artists particular STL so he can't sell you his art? I think that's a bit harsh. Maybe the OP just wants to print out that cool design for himself? (shared by Henry at ) contains his 3D models from his book. You might want to buy that?. I guess that if it's not in that file, he didn't want to share it. You could always ask him directly via I was broby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Quotefg dude Thanks DGF, the Cubex hotend mounting end is indeed 10mm, its total length is 75.5 mm wierd that my pixle math got 71.2 and the better picture reads 71.5, where did the 75.5 come from?by DaGameFace - General
Re: Modifications to my printer - 9 years ago
DANG, that blacklight looks awesome, your printer will steal the show next time its on display for sure!by DaGameFace - Look what I made!
3D Fractals and FDM printing - 9 years ago
MANY fractals are terrible to 3d print, the classic pyramid fractal is extremely week, the cube isn't bad but overhangs are very weird as there are holes in the bridge many others are too complex to print or too fragile to remove from the bed, but there is a math artist out there who has designed several fractals that would look amazing and could be printed on a well tuned fdm printer with liby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
QuoteRlewisrlou666 Why don't you check if there is an archived version on the Wiki? as far as I can tell there is no wiki dedicated to the cubex at all..by DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Quotefg dude I see that some are getting the E3D v6 ready to install (nicely done btw) but The E3D V5 is longer, could this V5 be the answer? Oh and please check your bearings on your extruder feeder Welcome to the forum! and nice catch on the v5, I will have to look more into it but I think that it may work by just machining down the end of the v5, the extra height makes it really close. Thisby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Ok, hadn't checked that yet, I have a china LED supply I can use for the time beingby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
What is a good source for metal to fabricate that adapter? I haven't ever had to purchase stock metal before.. I am going to run the printer as a single extruder with no heated bed on a ramps 1.4 and its stock powerbrick, AT FIRST. From there I will go dual extruder with the E3D's when the adapters are done. New PSU, Heated bed, and possible smoothie will come all together, hopefully before yeaby DaGameFace - General
Re: An alternative to buying a bad kit for $300-500 - 9 years ago
Hey, that adapter isn't that bad when you just buy it by itself: 25.00€by DaGameFace - General