Quoteampapa Thanks o_Lampe but I was hoping for a little more layman terms explanation than just the technical aspects. I mean, why change to G91 when homing? and why add an S1 on the end of a homing move? ampapa, Relative positioning means move nnn millimetres from wherever the print head is now. Absolute positioning is still relative but it's relative to the axis zero point. e.g. If you useby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
IMO, plain old trapezoidal lead screws would be better. Don't worry about the wear - the Z axis doesn't travel far, even over the course of several years . Also 15Kg spread over 3 screws is only 5Kg which is bu**er all for an 8 or 10mm screw. Use fine lead screws say 1 or 2 mm. That'll mean single start threads so the pitch will be the same as the lead. This will do 3 things for you. Firstly, theby deckingman - Reprappers
QuoteKevin37 .....................................So I was looking at the config on the web interface and couldn't find any errors and saw in the corner Heater 1 fault (T0) I then remembered deckingman posting something about the last line T0 being selected, so seeing I had changed everything else he suggested already I just commented this line out to see what would happen if anything......BOOMby deckingman - General
I took a quick look at your config.g. I can't see anything obviously amiss that would prevent the heater from working so it may be a wiring issue but let us know about the E0 HEAT LED. A couple of observations though. I see you are using PID settings in M301. A better way is to tune the heater using M303 then enter the process parameters in M307 (instead of using M301). The other thing is that yby deckingman - General
QuoteTrakyan even 1/16 microstepping isn't any good for increasing resolution. Look at the motor's spec sheet, some motors can be out by as much as a full step at any given time so expecting accuracy to 1/16 of a step is ridiculous, let alone under static or (worse) dynamic load. There was a HaD write up where someone did some empirical testing on this a while ago. Microstepping is really only goby deckingman - General
I find PET-G to be quite forgiving. I've had success with bed temperature between 50 and 70 although I do use 3dLac. I have printed it as low as 200 deg C but find 220 is best on my machine, with my hot end etc etc. I only use cooling on fine detail and bridges.It is does have a tendency to stick to the nozzle if it isn't clean and also a tendency to be stringy requiring a bit more retraction. Itby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
QuoteTraumflug ........................... People like @dc42 and @arthur convinced me that RepRap has no collaborative future. Really? I'm a bit surprised by that comment. The Duet is fully open source and based on the original RepRap firmware. All the designs are done using Open Source software and are available for anyone to build their own versions. Likewise the firmware which is published oby deckingman - General
Quotefma Quotedeckingman I'm still not sure where you are going with this? Why don't you want to use the standard configuration and just fit 3 lite 6 heat sinks? They work fine on the 3 colour version. Yes, but if they are only usefull for fixation, why bother with such huge piece of metal? And if it works, it could solve your problems with the 5 colours... And make a cheaper config. Seriously?by deckingman - General
Quotekdtop @deckingman, I'm curious about why you gave up on the 3 printheads. I suspect that calibration -- getting them all equidistant to bed -- would be a big problem. I mostly would want a 2nd print head to print dissolvable support structures. Regarding the offer for selling your other printer, I don't think that would work well. I live in the US. And if your RepRap is like mine, itby deckingman - General
For me personally, it's the support and speed of regular firmware updates that are as important as the electronics themselves. I know I'm biased but only because I'm a huge fan of Duet - not because of any affiliation. Because dc42 gets a share of the profits, he is able to concentrate more or less full time on firmware development. So for example, when I first started using a mixing hot end, Iby deckingman - General
I'm still not sure where you are going with this? Why don't you want to use the standard configuration and just fit 3 lite 6 heat sinks? They work fine on the 3 colour version.by deckingman - General
QuoteDust @kdtop DC42 is a sales person, his answer to everything includes purchase of Duet electronics.... The melzi board does not have enough stepper drivers to control any additional extruders, so additional hardware is required. Most simple is to just add an external stepper driver and plug it into your melzi. Also needs a heater and thermistor control for a full second extruder. soby deckingman - General
@KDTOP, I have a reprappro tricolour. It's slightly later than yours as it's fitted with the original Duet 0.6 electronics plus expansion shield rather than the Melzi boards that the really early ones used. I soon gave up on the three nozzle setup up and converted it to a Diamond 3 colour hot end but I still have all the original parts as well. Depending on where you live in the world, I could bby deckingman - General
Just for info, the last insulation discs I got from RepRap.me weren't woven. It's the same sort of fire blanket type stuff but it doesn't fray like the originals. Also, the main purpose of these discs is to keep the cooling air (which blows downwards) away from the brass part. The mount for the 5 colour version of the Diamond has a vertical tube down the centre to keep the cooling air away from tby deckingman - Mechanics
Frederic, Glad you appreciate the blog. These things take a fair bit of time and effort to write up so I appreciate the feedback. Also, yes the Diamond hot end isn't perfect by any means but in my opinion, it's not as bad as some approaches to printing multi colour. Until something better comes along, it's the best of a bad bunch IMO. At least it has taught me a lot and I think I know what's neby deckingman - General
Quoteobelisk79 Thanks for sharing. I'm designing my own printer. Much less organized at this point, but I hope to come up with something I can give back to the reprap community myself at some point. Good man. Let's hope the trolls stay under the bridge when you do share.by deckingman - Look what I made!
Quotecwaa Who cares? Try advertising somewhere else. The OP said it was all Open Source. These are the RepRap forums and this is a true RepRap printer. So where better to share it with the community? If you follow the links you'll see that they have published all the printable files and documentation so that anyone can make one. He has gone to a lot of time and effort to freely share his ideasby deckingman - Look what I made!
Quotefrankvdh Quotedeckingman ... one of more filaments may be heated but unused for a long period of time - an hour or more depending on the object being printed. It is under these circumstances that strange things start to happen which "single filament" users will not have experienced. It seems to me that a workaround shouldn't be difficult -- ensure that every 30 minutes or so, all filamentsby deckingman - General
Hi Paul, I got mine from Ooznest . I'm using 15 x 30 on it's side for the extruders/hot end and with 5 extruder motors and all the other gubbins, it's chock a block full of wires. After a couple of hundred hours or so, it's starting to sag a bit but not at all badly. I'd guess you'd have a few less wires than I have so you should be in a better position. I use a small size vertically for the bedby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
I'll shortly be writing a post on my blog about my recent experiences with the 5 colour Diamond hot end. There are certain issues with "mixing" hot ends (that is to say those which have multiple inputs but a single output) that are caused by occasions where one of more filaments may be heated but unused for a long period of time - an hour or more depending on the object being printed. It is underby deckingman - General
For those of you who didn't make it, I've just come across this video by Joe (3D Maker Noob) showing what were his highlights. The Duet stand (and my dual coreXY 5 colour printer) is covered from about 7:52. On a personal note, I have to say that I am blown away by all the positive comments and feedback that I received both during and after the show. It was good to put a few faces to names too.by deckingman - General
Just kind of stumbled across this thread. As a long time user of the Diamond 3 colour and more recently 5 colour, I think I know its little quirks quite well. Basically, like any hot end, you want to melt the filament in the chamber but directly above that melt zone, you need the filament to be as cold as possible. If it gets soft, it will simple buckle and bulge when you try and push it into theby deckingman - General
Quoteo_lampe ............ I tried some colour change prints as well, but didn't know how to write a script for it. That's when I asked David to add "relative" mixing ratio to RRF. That way you could send the same "M567 P0 E+2:-1:-1" line................ That would be a very labour intensive way of doing it. This print took around 7 hours and the colour change happens every other layer. The layerby deckingman - Look what I made!
Just thought I'd share this. It's this but scaled up 180%. so it stands around 235 mm tall. I photographed it stood on a window sill so they are real clouds behind. Sliced with Slic3R, 0.3mm layer height. Then the gcode file was run through a little script to change the mixing ratio every second layer. Printed using Filaprint transparent PET-G and a Diamond 5 colour hot end with 0.5mm nozby deckingman - Look what I made!
QuoteOrigamib Looks great but you might want to rethink the name as it sounds an awful lot like the mighty quim Had to Google that - never heard of them - I'm an old guy who remembers the song "The Mighty Quinn" (Quinn the Eskimo) by Manfred Mann from 1968.by deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist That's pretty awesome! Coming from you Mark, I'll take that as a compliment. Lets see how it prints though - that'll be the real test. Fingers crossed......... Ianby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Decided to give my printer a name "The Mighty Quin". Yeh cheesy I know but it's big (so "Mighty") and has 5 of a lot of things (so "Quin"). Here is a little video showing the latest evolution of it . The main changes are that it's now 5 colour (but interchangeable with my existing 3 colour hot ends), so has 5 E3D Titans instead of 3 and the extruder gantry is now a fully driven CoreXY in it's owby deckingman - CoreXY Machines
Brilliant!!! That works like a charm. Beautiful in it's simplicity. Thank you so much!by deckingman - OpenSCAD
Hope someone can help me. Basically what I need to do is have a number of cylindrical objects, spaced evenly around a circle but angled out at 28 degrees from the vertical. So all pointing at some origin if you get my meaning. I've managed to crib the following snippets from browsing (but I have no idea how it works). pathRadius=nnn; num=5; for (i=[1:num]) { translate () rotate ([??????]by deckingman - OpenSCAD
Quoteeninja67 ................... I will be contacting Ian to pick is brain andhow he built his printer.............Quote You can PM me if you like - I don't biteby deckingman - General