Quotethe_digital_dentist You're unlikely to be able to print flexible filament with a 500 mm Bowden tube. That might be possible with 3mm filament, but not 1.75mm filament.by PDBeal - Printing
So, I'm looking at purchasing a commercial grade or industrial grade 3D printer for the company I currently work for. I've printed a few object on my own highly upgraded Smartrapcore ALU printer for the company and that's what has sparked their interest in a machine. I've had experience with the Stratasys uPrint SE machines at a former employer, and the machine was what I'd refer to as idiot prby PDBeal - General
Have you tried a smaller amount of retraction? Your screenshot is showing 6.5mm, I'm not using an Anet A8 but I only use 0.1mm of retraction with an E3D V6 direct drive. On my worst case bowden setup, I only ever needed 4mm of retraction and I got that even lower when I made sure the PTFE tube didn't move at all during retraction with a different PTFE holder. You could always try the extra priby PDBeal - Printing
I didn’t use a fan, but I did design a cooling blower for part cooling for my Smartrapcore Ali printers. Cooling Blower for Smartrapcore Aluby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I see this message on the PanelDue everytime I turn on the printer. Is there any way to stop it from doing this every time the machine is turned on? I understand the warning when you initially tune the machine, but everyone power on is just annoying.by PDBeal - Duet
What nozzle size are you using? I've seen similar issues with anything larger than 0.4. It's almost like the software is expecting 0.4, and is tuned that way but anything beyond 0.4 or a direct multiplier of 0.4 and things get a tad off.by PDBeal - Printing
I can’t speak for the FL Sun, but I can for the E3D Chimera. It is dual extrusion, but it is very difficult making sure both your nozzles are at the exact same height. If not, one nozzle will drag through what you have already printed and sometimes it’ll even peel up what you printed. It’s not simple to setup and use the E3D Chimera. Just a fair warning, you’ll be in for a fight to make it work pby PDBeal - General
I've experienced some issues with 0.6 nozzles compared to 0.4 nozzles and it seems to miss some sections and creates gaps. I'm still working to figure out the exact cause, but I suspect neither Slic3r or Cura work well with anything beyond 0.4 nozzles. It's almost like the tooling paths are setup and designed for 0.4, and just increasing the nozzle size causes some "errors" to happen around cerby PDBeal - Printing
QuoteMKSA Note, it is the LAW to ground all metallic frames, parts ... In what country are you referring to with this LAW. I know of no such law that governs this in the US in an industrial aspect. There are requirements from NEC and OSHA for some of these requirements when you request or obtain UL certification, but there are no hard governing laws that I’ve ever come across that carry thatby PDBeal - Mechanics
I wouldn’t tie the 0V line to ground from your 24V power supply. Most powersupplys have circuitry internal to the power supply to handle 0V and ground and shorts. Your power supply should have the L N and Gnd connections, which should be true L N and Gnd connections with your incoming feed. Beyond that, I wouldn't bother connecting 0V to ground.by PDBeal - Mechanics
In my case, these are only going on my Z axis, so speed isn’t going to be an issue.by PDBeal - General
Quoteimqqmi If a full rotation of the 20 teeth pulley covers 40mm, ie 20 teeth at 2mm per tooth, the number of steps a 1.8 degree per step stepper motor needs to do for 1mm is 200 steps per full rotation / 40mm per rotation= 5 steps per mm. so a single full step covers 1/5 = 0.2mm. 2x and 4x microstepping is also reasonably accurate so you could push it to 0.1 and 0.05mm per layer. That was exaby PDBeal - General
RepRapFirmare already has the capability to run custom command snippets for tool changing. This can be run on a select few 32-bit controller boards such as Due+RADDS or the Duet 0.8.5 board series. It runs on the newer Duet boards too, but there have been too many revisions in a short amount of time for my liking to actually purchase one. Perhaps when the boards are 4-5 years old they'll be deby PDBeal - General
Drivers getting hot for the steppers at that speed with those accelerations? What current values are you running on each axis? What's the MCU temp at idle, and then what's the MCU temp when you start running at those speeds? Does your Duet have cooling fans underneath the drivers or any sort of air flow across the board? It could be one f your axis drivers are getting too hot and eventually sby PDBeal - Duet
Sort of, but not exactly. I've seen people mention a z axis that uses 1.8 degree motors with GT2 20T pulleys is only really capable of 0.2mm layer heights with it being a full step. I'm wanting to understand how that is calculated or connected to the step per mm calculation.by PDBeal - General
I've been searching and haven't been able find this, but what's the equation for steps per mm to theoretical resolution? I'm interested in understanding the theoretical resolution of a z axis using GT2 20T pulley between 1/16 microstepping and a 1.8 degree motor and a 0.9 degree motor. Primarily for what the resolution is for a full step.by PDBeal - General
They supplied the 17HS16-2004S1 through Amazon that I’ve been using. Looking at other motors they offer, it appears as though 17HM19-2004S would be similar to what I’m using on 2 of the printers with the only change being slightly longer motor and 0.9 degree per step change like I’m looking for. They definitely are more expensive for 0.9 degree per step, just not sure if it matters to keep the ~by PDBeal - General
I think it’s time to replace the 1.8 Nema17 steppers on my Z axis on my CoreXY machines. Can anyone recommend a decent one that’s readily available in the USA and from a proper vendor and not an EBay store. My Z axis uses GT20 belt with a 608Z bearing, and I believe I’d get better control of the Z resolution with a 0.9 NEMA17 stepper motor upgrade, but I’m not sure exactly how much current theby PDBeal - General
Attached are the updated STL files for my changes. This is what I've modified my Z axis to look like and it runs really well using the rest of the stock parts. You will have to print one more bearing sleeve from the original Smartrapcore ALU version. These three files give me better support to the bed, less twist than the original, better support under the piece of wood and have removed all thby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
I've run across something on another forum concerning Retraction Extra Prime Amount. From what I've noticed, the Volcano 0.6 nozzle needs Extra Prime Amount after a retraction and was having some trouble figuring out what value should be used in Cura. Since I ran across this section of the Ultimaker forum, I figured I'd share my findings as other people might be interested or be a way to archivby PDBeal - General
One thing you might want to try if your PLA is not extruding properly. Extrude 300mm or more at 10C higher than you were trying to print the ABS. Then run another 200mm or so at your normal PLA temperature. I’ve found this helps when switching material it helps purge out old material. I generally do this when I go between PETG, Tglase, Ninjaflex and PLA+. I usually extrude the new material at 1by PDBeal - Printing
So I'm about to install a E3D Cyclops with 2 "almost" direct drive E3D titan extruders on my CoreXY printer, and I've got a couple of questions for people who have experience with the E3D Cyclops or the Diamond Hotends since they would be similar. I have everything I need to physically install the E3D Cyclops and the 2 E3D Titans to the machine, but I wanted to ask about how retractions should bby PDBeal - General
So I really dislike the new Onshape requirements to make everything Public, so I’ve been slowly recreating the Onshape files in Solidworks one by one. I know I could just export and reimport, but I want all the sketches to be editable so I’m redrawing everything. In this process I realized the parts for the Smartrapcore ALU Ztop and Zbottom are not in alignment for the 8mm rod. Between the top aby PDBeal - Smart_Rap
Something tells me you’d have issues with heat transfer to the filament with a silicone nozzle considering there are a lot of silicone items available as an insulator because it doesn’t transfer heat or at least doesn’t transfer heat well.by PDBeal - General
Now if you could only take it one step further and remove the WiFi for Ethernet and put a proper RJ45 connector in its place. The WiFi is the only reason I’ll never buy one of these boards (yours or the originals). Yes I do know they later adapted it to have RJ45, but from what I’ve seen in the pictures of these boards it looks like a mod than a properly engineered board. At this point, I’mby PDBeal - Duet
Unless it’s changed, I’m not sure you can do a Z probe without a Z Endstop. Last time I tried (it’s been about 2 years), the developer said if you do a Z probe, you still need a Z end stop. In my case they suggested a Z min end stop with a Z probe because it is a CoreXY with a cantilevered Z axis. I believe at the time their thinking was the Z end stop was for homing and Z probe is for bed levelby PDBeal - Printing
Are both object in the pictures printed with the same gcode file? Or at least sliced with the same settings? The part on the left almost looks like you can see the infill in the outer surface as if one has more outer layers.by PDBeal - Printing
I can highly recommend investing in Swiss clips. They're very low profile and much smaller than Bulldog clips. When these were on the BigBox Heatbed and I saw how well they worked, I ordered enough for my other machines with a few spares. Pictures from E3D Website:by PDBeal - General
There isn't any noticeable movement in my hotend mount. Even if I grab it and pull it doesn't want to move. Primarily because the hotend is direct mounted in the E3D Titan, and my stepper motor bracket that holds the motor and titan is substantially thick. Preliminary results are looking better if I tell Cura to use line width 0.57 on a 0.6 nozzle. It's closed up the holes from the print pictby PDBeal - Printing
QuoteGR The PEI works for ABS for few prints, if you print the same part over and over, after as few as 4,5 prints, the PEI's adhesive tends to un-stick on the part boundary, decreasing the effectiveness of the overall PEI sheet. I don’t have a Prusa i3, but I do print on a sheet of PEI. When what you describe above starts to happen, I just use a piece of steel wool to scratch up the surface ofby PDBeal - Printing