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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Tronxy 5SA...good/bad? - 5 years ago
Oh well, never mind. I pulled the trigger and got it for $360AUD delivered. Hopefully the new/latest version shows up!by hobbymods - General
Tronxy 5SA...good/bad? - 5 years ago
Hi All, I've still yet to complete a corexy printer...ran out of money/time/interest, plus I have a very good cartesian printer that seems to want to pass the million kg of filament mark. Just never stops or fails. But now I want a bigger machine and still have a mountain of bits from an unfinished project, and I'm looking at one of these as a kit to upgrade (I'm well aware of the issues and upby hobbymods - General
Re: First Layer Settings - 7 years ago
After extensive messing around wit this, I've found the sweet spot for my machine printing ABS in 0.2mm layers. I've found that a first layer height of 150%, width of 120% and Z offset of -0.2% works beautifully for me. I didn't like going too high on the width, as the lines were a bit fat for my liking and some detail was lost in tight and tricky corners. My machine runs a Duet Wifi board wiby hobbymods - Printing
Re: First Layer Settings - 7 years ago
Quoteobewan When i print at a layer height of 0.2, i set the initial layer height at 0.35 with 120-150% extrusion. this should fill in your gaps in the bottom layer. When you set your 1st layer height down to 90% i think you are moving the nozzle too close to the bed and restriction the extrusion, I'll try that, but I'd have thought that the S3D default of 90% layer height and 100% extrusion wiby hobbymods - Printing
First Layer Settings - 7 years ago
I'm really getting into fine tuning my printer, which is a Duet wifi converted Zortrax M200, with a Printbite surface on the build plate. This thread is not about surface adhesion, I'm not having a problem there at all. My problem is that I just can't quite nail down the right level of solid infill on the first layer. I don't claim to be the guru, but I am not a beginner and have gone throughby hobbymods - Printing
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 7 years ago
Quotelkcl Quotehobbymods OK, I was so horrified that you guys thought I'd use threaded rod as a frame, and that there was even a lecture about the weakness of a cardboard box with no lid on it (WTF?!), that's not a very nice thing to say, hobbymods! you're seriously underestimating the value of what i said. flexible materials have the significant advantage of demonstrating (amplifying) desigby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 7 years ago
Some questions regarding pulleys: Is there a preference between 20T and 16T timing pulleys? I've got 20T on the Z motor, and 40T on the Z screws, and I was planning to use 20T on the XY motors. Is there any reason to prefer 16T? Regarding steppers: I was considering these for XY, simply because they're a commonly used motor, have a plug and are available in Oz. With my now much lighter carriby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 7 years ago
OK, I was so horrified that you guys thought I'd use threaded rod as a frame, and that there was even a lecture about the weakness of a cardboard box with no lid on it (WTF?!), that I've dusted this thing off for another look. One of the things that ground me to a halt (other than work/kids/money/etc) was that I just couldn't find the pulleys I wanted to use, without getting into custom items.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 7 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist I don't think the threaded rods that are separating the top and bottom plates are going to be rigid enough for printing at even reasonable speeds. You're going to be moving quite a bit of weight around at print speed at the top of the machine and it's going to make the frame shake and wobble. The top and bottom plates will flex with the long lever arms of the threaded rby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 7 years ago
I ran out of money on this, and as the next step involves real money (linears and more water jet cutting) I've put it on the back burner for now. Just can't afford anything at the moment. I used the electronics in this: Which has worked out very well, and might get me some paying work again. I've got 3 more busted Zortrax's there (keep blowing boards), so I'll convert another as above and miby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
I've finally got around to fitting up my new cast ally build plate with a more powerful silicone heat mat and Printbite surface, and for PLA at least it's looking very promising. I set my first 3 layers at 220/210/200 noz temp, the bed at 70/60/50 and the fan at 0/20/40/60. Nozzle at 90% height and 100% width, standard S3D setting with 4 brims 1 mm off the piece. All looks good to me, but at 5by hobbymods - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
Been a bit slack/busy to be doing much with my printers other than just use them, but here's my new bed finally for my converted Zortrax. I'll get the whole machine permanently assembled in the coming weeks, and dial it all right in.by hobbymods - General
Re: My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist 6 mm shoulder screws have either M4 (M5?) threads. I feel like that's getting pretty small to withstand the lateral force due to the belt tension without flexing/tilting. If each of those 8 screws flexes just a little, the belt is going to be riding on the outer flanges all the time. I have mixed feelings about using the M8 screws because they have M6 threads, but I'mby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage - 8 years ago
Just a quick question... Why do you use F608Z flanged bearings instead of F606Z? I use the 9mm wide belt as well, and looking at the specs the 606's would fit nicely with 0.6mm clearance on that belt. I'm just wondering, as I'd prefer to use 6mm shoulder bolts to mount my idlers on than 8mm. Is there a reason for your choice that gives an advantage over the 606? Should there be more clearancby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
And we're all good, it arrived during the week. Post has been consistently about 3-4 weeks out of the UK lately to Oz, so nothing too strange there. Thanks for getting back to me. QuoteMutley3D I will PM you to resolve this urgently. Did you email the old mutley3d.com or new flex3drive.com domain? Quotehobbymods Quotehobbymods Hi Mutley, I made an inquiry through your website some time back,by hobbymods - General
New to S3D - 8 years ago
Got a Zortrax converted to DuetWifi, and am trying to learn S3D. Here's some calibration cubes: ABS 0.4mm extrusion width (manual) 0.3mm layer height 100% infill Raft print 240degC 1mm retraction at 60mm/sec .90 and .95 extrusion multiplier (extruder steps/mm accurately calibrated) Issues would be some under extrusion at the start of each layer that doesn't seem to be related to extrusiby hobbymods - Printing
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
I probably used the old address as you did mention a change to your system and what not. Not having a big hissy fit or anything, just might be time we chased it up as it's taking a while. I'm pretty mellow mate, let's just get a tracking number and see what these bloody posties are up toby hobbymods - General
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
Quotehobbymods Hi Mutley, I made an inquiry through your website some time back, regarding getting a couple of your Printbite sheets cut to 240x240mm and posted to Australia. No reply at this stage....can it be done? Here I am again....I sent another email a few days back just asking it the items have been dispatched (after this first post here you contacted me and said it was in hand) and ifby hobbymods - General
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Bit further along, doing what I can without spending any more money. A few mistakes in my grand design...the whole X axis "dog bone" gantry plate will be reviewed. The triangular build plate support is only a temporary mockup to allow me to test my triple Z screw plan, and obviously the threaded rods are in lieu of walls right now. I'll save up now for all my XY linear guides, and start makingby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Idler pulleys with spacers between their bearings..??? - 8 years ago
Information overload.... I based my whole design on 20T timing and idler pulleys. I made sure I had toothed on the toothed side and vice versa, but now am reading that the idlers should be at least 1.5 times the dive pulleys diameter. For me it makes sense at a glance, but I'm buggered if I can find anyone with 30T smooth and toothed idlers. I'd probably be prepared to go with 20T drive/30T iby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Idler pulleys with spacers between their bearings..??? - 8 years ago
Here's what I got recently and they work: ? I agree about the quality of the bearings in these pulleys, but I really want to use them as I want to run toothed pulley on toothed belt and vice versa. And damn those delrin idlers look better.....plus I could use a (quality) 6mm bore bearing with makes it much easier to use a standard shoulder bolt. Is there any real downside to running a smoothby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: New print surface material? - 8 years ago
Hi Mutley, I made an inquiry through your website some time back, regarding getting a couple of your Printbite sheets cut to 240x240mm and posted to Australia. No reply at this stage....can it be done?by hobbymods - General
Re: My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage - 8 years ago
DD, I actually do have a bit of a reason for the stepper location. It will allow me to put them out in the fresh air with the way my design is. I'm looking to put just my XYZ steppers out of the build chamber, as I'll have that set at 50 degC controlled max temps at times. Never had a problem with steppers on other machines getting that hot in enclosures, but am thinking it will be a nice touby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Got my bits back from the water jet guys. Bit tight with the budget at the moment, but I've got everything I need to set up all the moving bits using threaded rod between the top and bottom as a temporary frame, and I'll print all the pulley mounts etc for now.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: My coreXY design is progressing to the build stage - 8 years ago
Fully agree with supporting the pulley axles top and bottom. Are you using precision shoulder bolts there? I was trying to go with them, but have found that 5mm linear rod is cheaper and can be cut to length which made it much simpler. Have you considered coming up from below with the steppers? I'm going to mount mine underneath and make some kind of bearing/housing to hold extended shafts coby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: extruder ripples in outer wall - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Try tweaking the extruder motor current. Yes, I was thinking that too... I've seen something written in the past regarding too much extruder current (or too little?) doing this.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: CoreXYNZ build - 8 years ago
I love the way you are giving so much attention to the alignment of the linear rails, I think it will pay off for you. Hope you're going to use some nicer looking bolts in the end lolby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
Quotespauda01 You can look at sample prints and demo videos of the D-Bot here . I think it gives pretty good quality prints for the price. I'm biased since it's my page but i'm not trying to sell anything. Why are so many people on here against 3dprinted components? This is the RepRap forum, as in 3d printers built with 3d printed parts. This is not high end CNC machine forum. Rep rap 3d printerby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Recommended CoreXY for newbie? - 8 years ago
Mate why not start with a second hand UP Plus or a Flashforge Dreamer or something like that? You'll get PLENTY of experience with the spanners on one of those, and learn all the important things like setting the bed level, nozzle height, clearing blockages etc before taking on a full on build. This might be less discouraging than jumping in at the deep end, and at least you'll have CAD designby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines