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Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK QuoteThe point Koko is making I feel is that our pissy little extruders weigh and exert forces MILES under the extremes these precision rails are made to take continuously Yes, looks like you are right. A quick back of the envelope calculation suggests that the static rated moment specs for mgn 15 in all 3 axis are ~2 orders of magnitude over anything the print-head is likely to expeby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Mounted vertically or horizontally, one side is getting more pitch and yaw forces. The point Koko is making I feel is that our pissy little extruders weigh and exert forces MILES under the extremes these precision rails are made to take continuously. Wear is going to happen regardless of what you use, friction is a by product of motion. Lubricate as per manufacturers recommendations is the key.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteKoko76 Quotehobbymods Well I'm already printing a housing to run 2, but I will take your advice and also make a single rail version. It certainly would make life easier. I take it you're a machinist/toolmaker of some sort? What I don't want to use is the MG rails, as they only have one bearing race as opposed to the EG series which has 2, and can be supplied with a grease nipple (I builby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Home alone today, so my second piece of acrylic got molested. Did what I should have done first time and worked out from the center, spacing everything about the 300x300 build size I want. I'm following Koko's advice regarding the X axis because I'm sure he's correct. I'm definitely running 4 short carriages on the Y axis because I can, and will stretch the "dog bone" plate forward/backward asby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteKoko76 Quotehobbymods QuoteKoko76 Quotehobbymods QuoteLarsK @ Ikcl - I like your focus on reducing the length from center of X rods to edge of out nozzle. I have never understood that it was not given more attention. Mine is 33mm from center of rods to nozzle edge, I wish it was less, but it is hard to design something printable and something that won't melt and then I wanted the dual nozzleby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteKoko76 Quotehobbymods QuoteLarsK @ Ikcl - I like your focus on reducing the length from center of X rods to edge of out nozzle. I have never understood that it was not given more attention. Mine is 33mm from center of rods to nozzle edge, I wish it was less, but it is hard to design something printable and something that won't melt and then I wanted the dual nozzles... But sometimes I seeby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteLarsK @ Ikcl - I like your focus on reducing the length from center of X rods to edge of out nozzle. I have never understood that it was not given more attention. Mine is 33mm from center of rods to nozzle edge, I wish it was less, but it is hard to design something printable and something that won't melt and then I wanted the dual nozzles... But sometimes I see some designs that makes meby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Yes I'm well aware of Chinese spec rods, I own a Wanhao D5S, the most disgracefully built machine there is I think. I buy my rods cut to length from the Australian Hiwin distributor, and it's perfectly in spec. I'm still flip flopping on this, as I run it past my son who expressed his disapproval at not using rails...important Got the Australian Gates guy on the job, and this guy knows his stby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotelkcl Quotehobbymods Yep I'm feeling this one too. I'm really leaning towards using 2x 10mm ground rods across the center (X) axis, there's just so many reasons. Of course there's the fact that it'll cost 10% of what my precision rail setup would, but then there's probably half the weight, 2 less major machining/tool making steps, the ability to slide the rods out and change carriages (CNCby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotelkcl QuoteLarsK One thing nobody has talked about - Does the belt go above the rods or in between (behind) the rods. This is my new design on one of my printers: SO here you see the belt goes behind the smooth rod. It could also go above and under but that would take up more space and induce a bigger vertical twist very nice arrangement. like the belts being the inner side of the rodby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK QuoteI can see a second scrap of perspex I've got there being in mortal danger of being drawn on and cut up. I really like the way you prototype your ideas. I'm trying to get more familiar with CAD, but I always quickly run up to the point where I want to hold it and see how it feels for real. There's some great creative energy running through this thread, and around coreXY in genby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotedeckingman Here are some pics of my pathetic attempt. The monstrous contraption in white is a Diamond hot end assembly complete with it's heat sinks and bits of Bowden tube sticking out. The belt layout is basically as per the reference mechanism but with one belt higher than the other which means they can cross without interference. At the end of the X axes, the bearings are stacked on topby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Yep. Pretty it isn't. I shall name it from this day forth the "Ultilitarian"by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
YES! take a look at the Fusebox!!!! said it for the third time!!! *dings hobbymod around the 'earole* I should point out that I'm 120kgs of mining contractor, which is a. why I'm dumb at this and b. why you'd only clip my earole once. But all levity aside, I've looked at the fusebox (very nice) previously the first time you mentioned it and again now, and my belts are run the same way it loby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
I think I may be using the term "stackable pulleys" in a different way. I'm talking about the pair of pulleys at the end of the Y axis (opposite the motors) being both run on the same post/shoulder bolt, which I saw an article on somewhere, as opposed to the pair of idler pulleys on a separate post each. I'm using the common pic all over the net as a reference: I do get it about the twistingby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Hacking Zortrax M200? - 8 years ago
I've just been asking about this. I've got 4 of them and they've started burning motherboards. Just started with the 2 newest ones, the extruder heater mosfet is what has been blowing. Problem is that they're weird and won't sell another motherboard until they've received the old one. Been waiting 3 weeks already since I sent it, no answer. Looking at how standard all the hardware is, it wouldby hobbymods - General
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
A little more jiggery today: I'm not trying to confirm or change the principles of corexy, just looking at it in the flesh in my application. The stepper motor extension mounts will allow an extra 5mm bearing to support a long/extended shaft stepper and put the pulleys on the same level as the X gantry plate. The 2 circuits will be on different levels, as many have discussed here before.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotedeckingman ...Anyway, the reason for using 1mm pitch is that (as I mentioned), I'm planning on using the lead screws for bed levelling. It may not work but my thinking is that I have 3 point lifting so why not use it for bed levelling as well? If the bed is going to be heated, you're still going to stand it off an undercarriage that's connected to the lead screws.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Interesting point will be can I get the cabinet as straight/flat as required for correct mounting of linear rails or will I need to have the surfaces machined. Another approach might be to make the gantry drop in on mounts that have been trammed to the Z rails. The whole project will be based around solid/consistent XYZ tramming.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Cheers both of you. Robotdig stuff is supposedly ok and cheap so I'll use them for starters. Don't worry about how rough that model is, I just had to put my hands to something not just think/talk about it. It'll be like that evolution chart with the lizard crawling out of the water and becoming a monkey lolby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotedeckingman Well I've order some Chinese lead screws, 8mm dia 1mm pitch single start. My thinking is that multi start and/or 8mm pitch would be too course for the z axis - we need resolution not speed. I have 1/2" lead screws (yes, imperial!) in the Z axis of my printer and a 20/42 pulley reduction and get flawless prints. You're going to print in 100 um (or more)by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
A ridiculously basic mock up with no money out but 12 bucks worth of pine square dowels. Minister for Finance (and war, 2 portfolios) is watching me carefully these days. My imitation Hiwin EG15's are surprisingly smooth...I should grease those dowels and sell them on ebay as "guaranteed authentic". I'll print them in green of course, I'm not a savage. I always do this before I send a fileby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteMikk36 Out of curiosity, those of you planning or already having built the 3-ballscrew with a single stepper Z-axis systems, how are you attaching the pulleys to the ballscrews? Are you just buying a cheap trapezoidal/acme leadscrew with multistart and then machining it to have a smooth bore to attach the pulley to or is there another trick to it? Sure, one option would be to get the ballscrby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotedeckingman Quotehobbymods Looking at a 500x500 cabinet footprint I can most likely get a 300x300 platform with a proper corexy gantry and 3 ballscrew Z axis. Yes, that's what I thought too but I've had to increase the size from to 600 x 600 and with that I'll get 320 on the Y and 340 on the X maximum. Mind you, I'm planning mine around a Diamond hot end which, because it has 3 heat sinksby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteVigilant Quotehobbymods QuoteVigilant From my experience in my recently build printer, if you're going linear rails you'll probably do fine. I got the CoreXY up and running at first try without any hitch. The hardest in my opinion is the Z axis. Took me quite some time to get this up to where I want it to. Cantilevered bed will work but you have to move extra slow so that the bed end doesby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Most people building printers focus on the mechanism and don't consider enclosure or placement of the electronics or wiring until after they've built the mechanism. I see a lot of people trying to shoehorn the mechanism into the smallest possible space which usually means the frame gets used as part of the linear motion mechanism. That makes enclosing the printer a probby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteVigilant Quotehobbymods QuoteVigilant From my experience in my recently build printer, if you're going linear rails you'll probably do fine. I got the CoreXY up and running at first try without any hitch. The hardest in my opinion is the Z axis. Took me quite some time to get this up to where I want it to. Cantilevered bed will work but you have to move extra slow so that the bed end doesby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: My new CoreXY completed build- Issues - 8 years ago
I can still see banding in the 0.1mm print, just much less defined. Little bit of "shadowing" around the porthole in the bow as well. From the sideline they still look like some good prints for starters! Certainly up there with what you'd get off any of the commercially available machines. The banding seems "cyclic", suggesting either something happening per turn of the z screw or as suggestedby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteVigilant From my experience in my recently build printer, if you're going linear rails you'll probably do fine. I got the CoreXY up and running at first try without any hitch. The hardest in my opinion is the Z axis. Took me quite some time to get this up to where I want it to. Cantilevered bed will work but you have to move extra slow so that the bed end doesn't oscillate too much.That'sby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotelkcl Quotehobbymods Sorry....Australian middle aged male....can't help you with deep and meaningful philosophy, but can I interest you in a sarcastic comment? arrhh yeahhh! Bit of insider knowledge for you:by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines