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Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Back on track........... The triple lead screw driven by one stepper/belt on the Z axis is now part of my plan I think. Seen enough cases including old mate Vern (Jetguy) swear by it, just seems odd but that's life and physics I guess.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Sorry....Australian middle aged male....can't help you with deep and meaningful philosophy, but can I interest you in a sarcastic comment?by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Mount one rail then slide the undercarriage back and forth and tighten down the second rail is how I did it and it has worked fine for a year and a half, in spite of hundreds of heating cycles and being transported in my car on multiple occasions. I did not grind a reference shoulder into the base plate, though it would probably provide some extra stability. That's howby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotecozmicray OK Pops I know you can reach back to the third row and apply good smack ARE WE THERE YET? Quotehobbymods Seriously, does it take the new guy to say "C'mon kids, play nice with each other. Don't make me come back there"? Getting there mofo....getting there lolby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Seriously, does it take the new guy to say "C'mon kids, play nice with each other. Don't make me come back there"? Back on topic (which was about a rugged corexy printer).... A valid point that was raised was the issue of thermal expansion binding up the rails in the XY axis'. Speaking to the linear motion guys, they seemed to think that over 3-500mm it would be negligible, but weren't sure. Aby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
To be honest it'll be forever until I get to that. I'm sure the gantry will keep me busy for a while. I actually don't have a subjective assessment at this stage, just asking for clarification, but I do see the Makerbot Z18 uses the same configuration as well. Mind you, I've heard they are shit.......by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist My printer uses NEMA-23 motors in all three axes (only really necessary in the Y axis, but I had the other motors so I used them). While they can be driven directly by the smoothieboard, I used external DSP based drivers for the X and Y axes because the Y axis motor required more current than the smoothieboard drivers could deliver and I wanted to experiment with microstby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK I suspect you may be overthinking it a little Ikcl. While you're right that some degree of turning moment around the line joining the two lead screw nuts will exist, it's likely to be very small. The two screw design with the screws in the mid-points of opposing edges is relatively well balanced, and remember that there are plenty of printers with fully cantilevered beds supported froby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotelkcl Quotehobbymods Yeah....I'm getting all the emotion. and now for something completely different Quote Back on track....did a little research and my contacts assure me that 15mm EG/HG rails not only have better features than the miniature rails, but he can do them cheaper. got any photos / specs / links to datasheets? Quote Yes I will have a 3 point spring loaded manual bed leveby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteJamesK Awesome. You're making me very jealous for your contacts. It costs me a fortune to get tooling plate. After a year and a half of working around cheap components I do find myself wishing I could just drop the cash on the good stuff DD is usually right about these things. I'm in the heart of a mining industry that has collapsed...there's a lot of skills/facilities around here and theyby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Oh, yes...the build plate. I will be using mic6 ally plate for all the reasons mentioned above. On very stiff leveling springs. Plus I can probably get it done cheaper than glass, as I don't have a glass guy, and my water jet guy will just charge for the time on his machine plus the sheet of material, which shouldn't be too much more than standard ally.by hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Yeah....I'm getting all the emotion. Back on track....did a little research and my contacts assure me that 15mm EG/HG rails not only have better features than the miniature rails, but he can do them cheaper. That's some big rails, but I'm up for it if they fit and aren't too cumbersome. Plentiful used ones on ebay as well for prototyping. Yes I will have a 3 point spring loaded manual bed leveby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist The point of leveling the bed, either auto or manual, is to get prints to stick to the bed. If they don't stick they fail, so the goal of leveling is to improve reliability of the printer. The designer has a choice- build the machine solidly so that it can maintain bed level, or build it less solidly and require frequent manual leveling or autoleveling. There is no reaby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotecozmicray Ikcl is building a Rube Goldberg foldable printer using mainly kitchen utensils as tools, because he has to move every week. Exactly opposite of your build. Don't get screwed by him -- if he doesn't know the capability / precision of a ballscrew He's a rod man --- averse to proper linear guides. Z drive --- 3 points determine a plane -- with two ballscrews, what keeps bedby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
QuoteKoko76 Holes are not what align linear rails (installed according to the specs you mentioned). Hiwin (as well as THK, IKO, SKF and several others) describe proper technique which is a machined lip for the bearings to rest against. It's not just the location of the holes, but the flatness of the surface you need to be concerned about. This is also specified in installation instructions, yoby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Here's what I made to get high quality prints. I'm working on a core xy design now. Like you, I don't care about high print speed, quality is the goal. I'm not a fan of glass beds, but people seem to like them. I prefer cast tooling plate with a layer of Kapton tape. I used two linear guides on the y axis with ball screw drive, and a single guide rail for the x axby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Re: Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Quotelkcl hiya hobbymods, welcome to the forum. some links to analysis that may help, look at what the_digital_dentist did, with son-of-megamax, his printer design is extremely comprehensive and accuracy is extremely good. for an analysis as to why you should use dual rails/rods and triple lead screws. dual screws is not enough. multiplying up the number of rails does not "fix" the problem ofby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines
Rugged CoreXY - 8 years ago
Hi All, I'm new here and have never built a printer before, but I do earn my living through printing and have been at it almost 5 years now. I've always been a strong believer in "tinned" software and printing with rafts in ABS, but have been spreading my wings a bit in the last 12 months and want to try something new. I have a large background in technical fabrication, but none in code/prograby hobbymods - CoreXY Machines