An aquarium pump will probably work, they're fairly cheap and you can probably find them locally. I can't say too much regarding the couplings you'll need since I've never used a kraken myself.by Trakyan - Mechanics
You'll need to add your own water cooling system then.by Trakyan - Mechanics
Ahh, ok, sorry I didn't see the video before. That's a bit odd, the axis motors look like they're taking turns in the first video. The second video, it's hard to tell but that sort of sounds like a motor skipping steps, where it tries to step forward, but then lurches back as the rotor falls too far out of phase. You say the same thing happens even when the X axis is removed (i.e the motors areby Trakyan - General
The ebay listing says its a kraken (clone), not an UM hotend. Try googling around for those, you might have more luck.by Trakyan - Mechanics
I reckon something with an H style gantry and some sort of Z axis that collapses the printer down/raises it up would be the ultimate in portable printers. No folding out, no set up on location, just plug and play. here's a thread sorta linking to/discussing the printer. I'm debating creating something similar but I find myself wondering why. I personally don't have to transport my printers verby Trakyan - Reprappers
By "pulsing" do you mean a clicking/thumping noise? That could be skipped steps, a symptom of too low driver current or too high jerk/accel, or motor binding etc. Skipped steps seem fairly common on the z axis on these forums.by Trakyan - General
Is the large black gear aluminium or just the body? Aside from aluminium seeming like a poor choice for a gear like that, those look like ejector pin marks in the second picture.by Trakyan - General
Most PCB heaters have a "warning: hot" silkscreen, I think it's a liability or legal thing. That being said, some idiots would grab that metal tab as soon as a print is done (me included).by Trakyan - General
There's the common Gregs/Wades extruder which is designed in OpenSCAD, I don't imagine in would be very hard to change the hole spacing for the motor mounting bolts. I believe the shaft diameter, bolt size used for mounting etc is all the same between nema 17 and 14, just the mounting bolt spacing is different. A quick google search of "nema 14 extruder" should do the job for you. Throw in "openby Trakyan - Reprappers
They should be able to sell them outside of these countries, just not in countries where the patent is active, and I feel like that list of countries is smaller than you think. There are a lot of countries where companies never bother to file a patent, I hear there is no patent on the iPhone where I live.by Trakyan - General
It's simple but it adds another step in the process. Plus you need to add a water reservoir which needs to be changed regularly and a pump which is usually noisier than a fan. I'm not saying a water cooled system is a bad idea, I just personally prefer an air cooled system for the slight advantage in simplicity and maintenance.by Trakyan - General
I ask about switching to an air cooled hotend as there is a bit more hassle with a water cooled system.by Trakyan - General
Cura also lets you do "adaptive" layer heights. You can set a nominal layer height, and the maximum deviation from that nominal. I.e. 0.5 +-0.25 mm layer height means the layer height can swing between 0.25 and 0.75 mm. Cura then automatically adjust layer height for more or less detailed sections of the print, you can also adjust the threshold value (I believe its based on some trig regarding hoby Trakyan - General
I'm guessing you use a flex shaft ala flex3drive/zesty? Pretty cool design. Any idea what it would weigh if adapted to an air cooled system and how easy would it be to change hotend? Also, great job on your delta, neat concept and execution. How well do the flexure hinges hold up over time?by Trakyan - General
12V DC motors are usually cheaper and easier to find than steppers.by Trakyan - General
Yes, it's possible. Just disconnect the two center taps and use the remaining 4 wires. A lot of NEMA 17s have 6 wires if you look (especially those with removable wires), just two are left disconnected.by Trakyan - General
You never know, he may be committed and wants to write the gcode himself.by Trakyan - Reprappers
It's not so much about bending over time, if my understanding is correct it's more about how far it can bend or flex before it deforms permanently. So using other kinds of steel you'll just need to be careful with how much you flex them.by Trakyan - General
I'm having trouble picturing how the heater block, heatbreak and heatsink go together.by Trakyan - General
0.25 mm walls and a set screw to hold it in place? You'd need to be a surgeon to assemble this thing without crushing it. Also, that's a tiny heatsink, how effective is it and what fan will you use to cool it?by Trakyan - General
You could define the circumference as the max travel, it just means you need to take the long way around once you reach the end of your travel and you'd have a seam (potentially useful for removing the part). I don't see using a soluble filament being helpful in removing the part. The "inside" of your part would be stuck to your spindle, and your filament would start dissolving from the outsideby Trakyan - General
Did you change anything that could have shifted your rails? Moved/reassembled/tweaked the frame, rail mounts etc. You could have out of parallel rails causing problems with binding. The y axis would be more prone to this I reckon and that matches up with what you're seeing.by Trakyan - General
Correct me if I'm wrong, but his travel moves should be slower since he's moving a bigger, heavier gantry and carriage with the same nema17s used with smaller, lighter setups. Plus acceleration should probably be set lower because of the longer belt paths being more susceptible to stretch. That aside, I think arduinos are plenty powerful for the linear kinematics of a CoreXY at any sane travel orby Trakyan - General
Smoothieware has s curve acceleration?by Trakyan - General
Maybe you over tightened the belts? Or the new belt clamps are causing some slight misalignment (the effect of this would be worse at the ends of your travel which is what you're seeing). The simple answer to your question is to go back to what worked.by Trakyan - General
It's better than linear, it's constant, as long as you spool the wire in the correct direction. Otherwise you have the same changing angle between the string leaving the pulley and the anchor on the carrier.by Trakyan - Mechanics
So I finally got a successful print off my printer, turns out I needed some abs juice to get things to stop warping up no matter how hot I got the bed or chamber. I'm starting this thread as a sort of build log. Feel free to comment/critisize/make suggestions about the design and project. Before I start printing the final parts (been fine tuning the tolerances so far), are there any opinions/prby Trakyan - General
Kossel and CoreXY are mutually exclusive, so you can't really do that. Kossel delta is sort of like saying Mendel cartesian. The Kossel is a specific implementation of linear delta, like a mendel is a specific implementation of a cartesian.by Trakyan - General
The kossel was one of the first delta 3d printers. People use the name kossel the same way they use prusa or mendel to describe machines.by Trakyan - General
I still haven't had time to draw it up because it's the end of semester here and I'm super busy, but the happy little discovery was that the winding pitch of the string on the pulley doesn't matter. The only thing that matters is that when the string is fully wound in (i.e. The anchor on your carriage is touching the pulley), the end of the string leaving the pulley and the anchor point on the caby Trakyan - Mechanics