... Is it best practice to limit the duty cycle and fit fuses on both the live and neutral connections? I'm thinking, if the controller goes fully open due to failure, or there either cable gets shorted to something, either fuse should blow and stop any further damage / heating. I was also thinking, hmm,. recycled cooker hob... ideal for Deltas. Probably OK with square build plate too.by DragonFire - General
64 for a 2209 has been reported to me as a typical value. What could have happened is your movement on the stepper got a lot stiffer for some reason. Fluff on the belt maybe, or caught on a pulley wheel. You could try swapping driver to make sure it isnt an issue on the 2209.by DragonFire - General
Very likely to be cheapest kind of sensor EPCOS 100K B57560G104F To be certain, you could measure resistance at ambient, and compare with temperature at boiling point, and compare to official resistance charts of thermistor types.by DragonFire - General
I could never get the Huxley to print anything over 1 inch tall. Never could work out why. Klipper firmware will fit on a 1284. But then you'd have to get a Pi or another Linux host to do the actual calculation. EDIT: Few links would help. Here's a generic config for a Melzi board, will need tweaks for the printer measurements. Note that if the 1284 has an old bootloader on it, it will need aby DragonFire - General
2 mods that have reduced noise and vibration on my printer;- 1) Replacing smooth return roller pulleys with toothed gears to eliminate belt rub. 2) Adding rubber shock absorbers to the stepper motors. Measure the belts too. One cheap trick manufacturers do is use quarter inch wide, which have a slightly different pitch to G2 6mm belts. It's not a huge difference but it does not work as well aby DragonFire - General
They can knock with a loose mounting screw, or if the driving gear is out of line with the filament.by DragonFire - General
I didn't say that CoreXY is a nightmare. Compared to getting everything identical on a Delta it's easy. There are pitfalls with any design. With a bit of prior warning you can avoid building them in.by DragonFire - General
Oh yeah, belt tensioning is crucial on a corexy. You need both belts to have the same tension, so has to be very adjustable and also grip like a Doberman when you've done adjusting. Calibrating a corexy is problematic and is mostly down to test printing and adjusting belts.by DragonFire - General
I guess making the pulleys gives some kind of background to cables. I dunno, I've heard pretty good things about polycarbonate fishing line. That's a long way from actually making anything, And yes it's a long time since I took an inkjet apart.by DragonFire - General
Only smooth rod delta design I'm aware of is the Rostock. Here's why I'm not recommended you go delta - I've spent 6 years trying to get one to print accurately. Thanks to a Raspberry Pi 3 and Klipper firmware, I can do that now. A pi zero 2 W will do the trick, but that's not an easy setup to achieve at one go. And yeah, you need the Linux host (Pi) as well as the control board. Not necessby DragonFire - General
If that seems a lot to spend on one item - it is. Alternatively, what you could look at doing is buying 2nd hand non-working or working. Ebay has a bit of a glut currently, Maybe about the same money or less. That would let you get your hands on something, and using Dexian to reframe a Prusa i3 or derivative is not unknown. Less ambitious, more doable that way.by DragonFire - General
I suspect a lot of those motors will actually be stepper motors. Although probably a bit small for 3d printers. You could maybe have enough Dexian for a CoreXY frame. If not, at least a base frame. Will help to kill vibration if nothing else. I've had people come up to me and the only thing they haven't recycled is the usb cable to plug it in with. If you want to pre-order a pretty nice, inexby DragonFire - General
QuotePippy Thank you again hercek. We would love to dump marlin, it's really not very good these days, what with compile problems and such like. I just need to find a board that would run the reprap firmware, we can't justify buying one of their boards for this cheap printer at the moment, the printer was faulty when we got it, needed repairing etc, no telling what it had gone through before arrby DragonFire - Delta Machines
QuoteHereIgoAgain Where are things at now? Am I better off just buying one...many seem quite cheap now? As always on this site, I look forward to any suggestions. Ender 3 very popular as a kit for newcomers. It's a very slick Prusa i3 derivative, a little limited in terms of parts used. But very well thought out to get a working printer. Creality do a number of models. One thing you might wantby DragonFire - General
Raw material is sugar for PLA. ABS is much cheaper to make, ASU being a little more expensive. I have noticed a price hike on carbon fiber though. Energy cost. Could be a rise on filaments using that. I have no data on other polymer types.by DragonFire - General
Installing Klipper was a goal. Completed yesterday, got a calibration model off it already. Delta goodness.by DragonFire - General
Das Plastik zersetzt sich nur, wenn es zu heiß wird. Wenn die Temperatur konstant bei 180 Grad Celsius gehalten wird, sollte sie stabil bleiben. Die genaue Temperatur, bei der es die Molekülform aufbricht, hängt ein wenig von den Additiven ab, reines PLA ist am niedrigsten, weißes PLA ist tendenziell am höchsten. The plastic only degrades when it gets too hot. If the temperature is kept steadyby DragonFire - General
What is the mass of the Y carriage? Compared to the X carriage? Usually the issue. Too much mass = erratic movement. You could try turning down the acceleration. EDIT: Include the belt mass as well. You could try swapping the motors to make sure that the Y motor isn't defective.by DragonFire - General
Very good start. You too.by DragonFire - General
In terms of "processor" overload... UART/SPI tells the driver to go do so many pulses and micropulses to a given motor, via serial connection. That is a tiny fraction to the amount of processor load when it has to do all the pulse timing on its own. Oh well. If you do get it sooner rather than later, you will get opportunity to work out how to compile and upload firmware to it. Good luck findiby DragonFire - General
No max endstops, filament sensor, 2nd Z motor driver. Very compact. Probably too compact from a heat / cooling point of view. Supposed to be flashed at the factory with Marlin, to the extent that the manufacturer recommends a custom fork of Marlin. With UART 2209 steps per second should depend on the 2209s, not the processor. No Klipper support (might be an issue with compiling for the proceby DragonFire - General
2209 with UART or TMC2130 spi. The latter is better spec but more expensive. Either offer an upgrade path to 24V if desired. 2208 tend to run hot even at 12V, Marlin can use such defined in config.h. No disadvantage beyond having to use Marlin. It's a bit quirky. 32 bit controller will give you more headspace for computing moves, also firmware flashing via sd card (Arduino IDE no good here,by DragonFire - General
As the plastic goes down, the built plate gets heavier. To be smart, you want to work out how fast it can go accurately carrying a deadweight. Rather than it missing steps half way through a print because the load is greater than the torque available to move it quickly.by DragonFire - General
Well, I just use an 8 bit RAMPs compatible controller. Raspberry Pi 3 (got a couple of these) to run Klipper on. The Pi plugs into the Usb port of the 8 bit controller. I use a network connection to access the Klipper control panel. The key part is upgrading the motor drivers, it saves the 8 bit controller from having to calculate any of the pulses. The drivers do that. Not that Klipper can'tby DragonFire - General
If you want to go ask yourself;- It pretty much boils down to processor type, and only old forks are definitely OK with the older BTT hardware. I'm getting into Klipper myself.by DragonFire - General
"Perfect choice" really depends on style of connectors built into the printer. You are probably looking at BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo or BTT Octopus plus. The snag with buying controllers at the "decent price range" is you might have to return one or 2 before getting one without any build errors. You might consider SPI or UART connection for the drivers. Even less chance of missed steps. It is quite lby DragonFire - General
Power supply of at least 6 amps @ 24V. More means it will run cooler. (The motors can draw more than 2A, they do have multiple coils). Having excess current available does no harm if it isn't drawn by a load, but not having enough (or pushing a marginal supply too hard) will not help make the thing move smoothly. I don't know what the current / power limit of the shield is. I also don't know hby DragonFire - General
Check your exact model, there are AC versions as well as DC for that motor. You might find RAMPs and an Arduino Mega has greater redundancy for blown up channels. Viktor is quite right, the A4998 is a little spartan for that load. Beefier drivers with heatsinks and active cooling fan recommended. Also, what's the rating of your power supply? Checked the step value on the hardware matches thby DragonFire - General
I am not sure I understand totally what you are trying to do here. Either you are trying to do a printer with extra features capable of printing many different models, or a dedicated machine to make one item only. If it's more like the latter, you might want to look at Klipper as an alternative firmware development package. Might be easier if you want to end up with a graphical front end on a Pby DragonFire - General
Ummm... No. You don't have a V6 E3D. What you have is an V6 Lite clone. And it's not supposed to work that hot. ? PTFE tube decreases friction in the cold end. It might be OK for high temperatures with a titanium heatbreak and shorter PTFE tube.by DragonFire - General