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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Momentarily running A4988 drivers without a load? - 3 years ago
I wouldn't have thought there would be a problem with no load. No power was drawn. A4988s typically work or they don't. Not much of a halfway house with them, in my experience of them.by DragonFire - General
Re: Makerfarm - 3 years ago
It can be erratic even with manufacturers that are still selling. You should at least have more of an idea where the wires connect.by DragonFire - General
Re: Makerfarm - 3 years ago
Probably got one of these in it;- Totally generic if a bit quaint for the hardware. Don't know what firmware they supplied but Marlin 1.19 is adequate (current firmware). There are LOADs of ways to tweak it.by DragonFire - General
Re: Building a Mendel in 2021. What would you choose? - 3 years ago
Well... if you want to spend many, many hours building and tweaking... Huxley I found more frustrating. I2 I ended up with something quite good that could do Abs, if not fast then at least consistent. Now I have a delta with autolevel, I'm way, way past either of them. Too much faff and not enough print.by DragonFire - General
Re: First timer looking for advice - 3 years ago
Probably. There isn't a "Creality Line" as such, they are all commercial versions of different styles of open source projects . This is maybe not the best place to ask. We've got the grandparents, we don't know how the grandkids turned out,by DragonFire - General
Re: Part-cooling fan for PLA - 3 years ago
Comments like that don't do much for Boeing's reputation @The_digital_dentist. EDIT: Boeing don't actually make engines themselves. Perhaps they meant Pratt & Whitney, or Rolls Royce, or Safran. General Electric?by DragonFire - General
Re: Part-cooling fan for PLA - 3 years ago
Ideally, yes. It saves extra stress on the heater block keeping a steady temperature. You can look for shroud designs on Thingiverse or wherever. A silicone sock on the heating block insulates the block. Alternative approach (some do both). But it will probably work as is, just not as efficiently as it might work.by DragonFire - General
Re: Service interval for printers - 3 years ago
Most Repraps don't have a real time clock and cannot tell what the correct local time and date are. Which wasn't what you proposesed I admit. Most maintenance is cleaning and then relubricating, Dirt builds up quicker than oil dries out,by DragonFire - General
Re: What's the difference? - 3 years ago
That particular one can switch faster than others is the principal advantage. Not particularly useful for 3d printing though. It's very limited in terms of current it can handle. You generally find higher current transistors come in a package that you can fit to a heatsink.by DragonFire - General
Re: Hotend Heating Failure - 3 years ago
Intermittent connection of the heater for the hotend. 10 Megaohm is like no connection at all, resistance should be for 20 Watt heater cartridge and 12 Volt supply, 7.2 ohms. Cartridges are cheap to replace, but make sure it isn't a problem with the connector where it attaches to the controller board.by DragonFire - General
Re: racial supremacy is allowed in reprap.org 2.0 - 3 years ago
A peculiarity of publishing - remarks within quotation marks do not originate from the author, they are merely quoting someone else. I wouldn't so much categorize Viktor as anti- anything particularly, he's just totally pro German in terms of manufacturing standards.by DragonFire - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Re: Hotend Heating Failure - 3 years ago
You should measure the resistance of the heating element. If it is infinite, then that component has failed. One other way to test is to swap around the heating element wires between printhead and heated bed, and also the temperature sensor wires for the printhead and heated bed. If the fault now effects the heated bed, and the heated bed doesn't get warm, then the fault is with the mosFET on yby DragonFire - General
Re: Problems with Geeetech prusa i3 pro W - 3 years ago
You generally get A4988 "cheap" drivers with this printer, and they need to be set to give current to 1 Amp. As supplied, they might not be adjusted at all. The adjustment is done by screwing a little pot screw on the driver. Care needs to taken to just use enough force to turn it, too much and you break it. It has minimum and max positions. Usually the power supply isn't very good at supplyingby DragonFire - General
Re: Problems with Geeetech prusa i3 pro W - 3 years ago
Could be bad power supply. Could be a short between the power going to the bed heater and ground. Does it auto home? That's a real test that the end stops and motors are working. Printers power on in "unknown position", and if the endstops are wired wrong, they won't move (thinks the endstop is triggered when it isn't).by DragonFire - General
Re: Marlin 2.x won't build - 3 years ago
Yeah, could be. Hard to tell. I had it as 2 different display types selected as present on the same printer causing the error, which points to config.h having errors in itby DragonFire - General
Re: Marlin 2.x won't build - 3 years ago
Quotefoul_owl Having some major problems with Marlin firmware (bed leveling is causing the hotend to crash into the bed) so I don't know about the compilation error (sounds like config.h or config_h.adv issue) but that sort of behaviour points at the sensor for levelling not being detected properly. Could be a dead sensor, could be plugged into wrong place on the board. What you using? I triedby DragonFire - General
Re: Print Cost Calculator - 3 years ago
Varies hugely between different designs though. If you're looking for common denominators, I'd guess belt and extruder drive replacement would be quite high on wear values. Even belts come in various kinds though, there is a general lack of uniformity between different printers.by DragonFire - General
Re: E3D Kraken clone clogging - 3 years ago
It could be a lot of things. What is almost certainly part of the problem is the extruder not feeding consistently into the hot end. Especially if the hot end keeps moving around a pivot point. This can also happen when z axis goes so far up - the extruder doesn't have as much pressure as when on a first layer. One other thing to check - the actual consistency of your filament, ie deviation fby DragonFire - General
Re: Noisy power supply fan - 3 years ago
Oh. I thought the OP was asking for tried and tested methods of noise reduction. I mean, contact switch cleaner eating insulation? What's it made out of, cheese?by DragonFire - General
Re: TMC2208 X-Axis UART Issue - 3 years ago
Might be an issue with the motor too. I'd check to see if I could drive the X motor with the Y controller (which is known working) just to be sure.by DragonFire - General
Re: G33 - Delta Auto Calibration Just won´t Work.
- 3 years ago
QuoteLVD QuoteDragonFire #define H_FACTOR 1.01 #define R_FACTOR 2.61 #define A_FACTOR 0.87 Those are pretty ancient defines; I can't even remember what year or version I got rid of them in the G33 code. I gues somewhere in 2017 in between v1.1.6 and v1.1.7... Did they work? Quote #define X_DRIVER_TYPE 2208 #define Y_DRIVER_TYPE 2208 #define Z_DRIVER_TYPE 2208 Definitely wrong, driver typeby DragonFire - Delta Machines
Re: G33 - Delta Auto Calibration Just won´t Work. - 3 years ago
I couldn't find 3 defines in your code, I marked them out in bold;- #if ENABLED(DELTA_AUTO_CALIBRATION) // set the default number of probe points : n*n (1 -> 7) #define DELTA_CALIBRATION_DEFAULT_POINTS 5 // DaHai: Set higher if you wish, but not above 7 (not supported) // Enable and set these values based on results of 'G33 A'. DaHai: These will get overriden and saved in EEPROMby DragonFire - Delta Machines
Re: Noisy power supply fan - 3 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist QuoteDragonFire The most effective ways I've found to quieten a fan are;- 1) Paint all the surfaces to reduce drag. Be careful not to get any paint inside the fan. 2) Give it an overnight soak in WD40, drain, shake and dry thorouhly before plugging in. 1) What sort of magic paint is that? Which surfaces are you painting- the blade? the housing? 2) Did you know thatby DragonFire - General
Re: Noisy power supply fan - 3 years ago
The most effective ways I've found to quieten a fan are;- 1) Paint all the surfaces to reduce drag. Be careful not to get any paint inside the fan. 2) Give it an overnight soak in WD40, drain, shake and dry thorouhly before plugging in.by DragonFire - General
Re: Response with large delay from ANET3D V1-5 - 3 years ago
I would never have guessed that. Be aware that quite a lot of old school user interfaces have the same quirk, no enter key, no input.by DragonFire - General
Re: NEMA17 stepper motor guesses? - 3 years ago
Not convinced it's a good idea. Increasing the resolution comes at a cost - the controller has to send twice as many pulses to achieve the same distance. With a retract, the extruder does high acceleration moves in both directions. If that exceeds the capability of the controller and driver combined, you miss steps unless you have a "smart" driver with feedback. Further, unless you are capableby DragonFire - General
Re: G33 - Delta Auto Calibration Just won´t Work. - 3 years ago
What can cause issues is the motor connection has to be matched to the correct endstop. It took me several attempts to get this right, using v2 of the manual downloaded (the supplied printed manual was not correct). <-scroll down for download link It didn't help that the motors go in the order x-y-z, but the endstops plug in the order of z-y-x. On the supplied controller, not yours.by DragonFire - Delta Machines
Re: Help me to know what model is this printer - 3 years ago
Try Dust's suggestion, download Pronterface for your system (Windows, Mac or Linux) and link the printer to your computer with a Usb cable. This can take a little tinkering, but it does let you type commands into a console connected to the printer to send it commands and receive back responses from the printer. If you send it a G29, it should try to bed level with the probe. Although exactly howby DragonFire - General
Re: Cyclops hotend leaking through thermistor hole - 3 years ago
Maybe the hole you have the thermistor in is the wrong hole?by DragonFire - General
Re: Cyclops hotend leaking through thermistor hole - 3 years ago
No, unless your pressure seal exceeds the pressure exerted by the extruder to squeeze the plastic through the nozzle. Impossible with tape. Just replace the heatblock. It's toast. Probably cast rather machined from solid, it's got voids inside.by DragonFire - General