It's either got to be the heater cartridge or the electrical bits sending power to it. Which includes the connectors, they can work loose. If your controller supports 2 extruders, you could try wiring up to the 2nd extruder power and thermal sensor outputs and the extruder motor controller, set your Marlin to use the 2nd extruder temporarily, and try again to see if it makes a difference, if notby DragonFire - General
From what I understand, most kinds of thermal paste just dry out. The boron formulation usually steams a bit on first heating, that's normal. I don't think there are any permanent solutions, they all fall apart sooner or later. Only reason I'm kind of interested is I'm mulling modding a v5 cold end with an M7 tap and seeing if a real e3D titanium heatbreak will fit well enough. The tricky partby DragonFire - General
If it was me, I'd present this to the local health and safety killjoy and ask them what objections they had to it. Not a joke, direct link from the manufacturer (scroll down to the bottom of the page). Perhaps Arctic have an English language version of a hazardous safety document on one of their pyrolitic jobbies? It is RoHs compliant at least in English certified as non-hazardous material.by DragonFire - General
No telling really. It could have been a color additive. It could have been contaminated with ABS or other plastic. Pure PLA (clear, no color) can deform as well, although it tends to start well and delaminate further up. This is why people play around with heated beds and glue stick etc, to get good bed adhesion. And pay more for consistent filament.by DragonFire - General
I hope your Pogo pin insulation can take the heat conducted through the wires. Ideally you will also have to input different PID values for the different hot ends via gcode. I don't think all firmware lets you do that on the fly... Although some might let you input values via the controller instead. Others appear to just do a calibration each time and store those values. Which adds time to youby DragonFire - General
GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y is typically defined to same value as GRID_MAX_POINTS_X in file configuration.h Quote#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 3 #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_Xby DragonFire - General
Looks dope to me. Anycubic Kossel modded to extrude at 44 cubic mm per second.by DragonFire - General
Very disappointing that OP or indeed anyone else never volunteered for my experiment. It's like you are all pre-judging the issue, which doesn't strike me as at all enlightened or scientifically minded... just a bunch of twits talking rubbish in order to escape reality or just plain old scientific validation or invalidation. Or perhaps you saw the hammer first. My bad, perhaps I should have hidby DragonFire - General
QuoteNadim Is the universe real? I have designed a sophisticated experiment to determine this, involving locking both of us into one room for one hour, myself having been equipped with a suitably damaging hammer. After an hour, your pain level at asking such a bloody stupid question should determine how "real" your pain is and thus how "real" the universe is. I could delegate such a task to soby DragonFire - General
Hi, it came to my attention that a well known friend and legend Cap'n Crunch is suffering from a very nasty spinal fusion operation, leaving him with more then a year of recovery. During this time, he’s highly dependent on other people to assist him in daily living tasks. Although his recovery is improving, he can no longer depend on doing contracting work, giving lectures and talks, traveling,by DragonFire - General
Panic over, found a list of open source downloads for Reprap here;-by DragonFire - General
Bit miffed, the first time I've had a chance to look at Skeinforge... it's vanished. Links dump you onto a 404 page on MySQL. Looks like Enrique has warped it elsewhere into cyberspace. Anyone know where I can find it these days?by DragonFire - General
Two things i would add - self assembled or turnkey (ready built to go). Self assembled means the kit suppliers do not have to offer warranties. Also running costs, a lot of the turnkey systems are not very cheap to run. Those are maybe the biggest factors for people new to the subject. There are others, like maximum volume of print, that can decide why one system is more suitable than another,by DragonFire - General
Hmmm... does not matter. Evidence is weird, you only really need enough to show intent, and capability, in England and Wales. Sorry. I'm not saying it's fair to 3D printing, but some people do try to make really nasty machines with robots, and unless you're big enough to protect your own means of production as in "nation state", that is a crime, in most "nation states". Many posters might be baffby DragonFire - General
QuoteMutley3D ... and you wont need a pointy hat to get the parts to self release either Oh. And what am I supposed to do with my pointy hat then? I use a shapka to keep my head warm.by DragonFire - General
It is smarter to check things in the pins.h file. You can swap pretty much any set of pins with any other similar set, amongst other tricks. ... but for what you want, just find a pin that isn't being used and put the setting in there somewhere. Unused endstops should be fine. It has to go in the bit that defines your particular board. If you don't know your board, you have to do it in ALL ofby DragonFire - General
Quotejinx @dragonfire aint that RAMPS 1.2 then came the 1.3 with 5 drivers then the 1.4 mass produced SMD version either way its a pitty there no 1.5 for the 32 bit age with quality components, think in some ways a DIY 1.3 RAMPS be a better option for the re-arm " user choice over components I see 5 cables, but only 4 pololu motor controllers. Top Pair are labelled "YZ". Wiki is wrong anyby DragonFire - General
You are totally correct Jinx - I thought the only kind of Huxley was the mini RepRapPro type, I didn't realize there was another Huxley! You are lucky I was wrong Jeva, these are nicer than the one I was thinking of. Extrusion tweak on Slic3r is the same though. Least I got SOMETHING right. Filament you are supposed to measure with calipers to be accurate, 2.85mm is usual for "3mm" filament.by DragonFire - General
Oh, one other thought - if you DO want to upgrade the firmware, one way to do it would be to get a new Arduino Mega, Ramps 1.4, and 4 or 5 Pololu motor controllers. You can get complete packages with all of these included. That way, you can keep the current setup for printing, and wire up the new controller to tinker with. Saves changing the old working one while you tinker to get a new firmwareby DragonFire - General
Original Prusa Mendel iteration 1 - the i2 had two motors for Z axis. Yours only has one motor driving both the Z rods via a belt. Must admit, these usually don't have a heated bed. No, stick with Repetier to learn all you can. It is more beginner friendly, I think. You should find some useful downloads and support here;- It is technically very challenging to build these to work at all, yby DragonFire - General
Good news is - ramps 1.3 very similar to current 1.4, but only has single extruder option. I would guess from the age, is probably about 4 years old or more. I would recommend this book to all 3D printing novices;- 3D Printing for Dummies. It's based around getting a Prusa I3 built, but is very very helpful for talking you through setting up Marlin (the most common firmware used for 3D printersby DragonFire - General
Just had a note from somebody that knew the couple - apparently they had both laser cutter and a 3D printer, but small scale, and the safety investigation isn't completed yet, so this is media just jumping on leaked partial information.by DragonFire - General
Well, I admit there is something strange about the whole story. It's very "gappy", as though cops were trying to find a cause for CO, couldn't find one, and then just blamed the machine they could not understand. Venting on laser cutters on unsafe material is an issue, but that's a LOT of CO. It came from somewhere. Usual cause is faulty central heating unit, but apparently not checked? I guessby DragonFire - General
Quotereifsnyderb No joke. I am the guy who created the J-Head. Sure! There are a lot of hot-end developers. Developing a hot-end, developing a hot-end that can be mass-produced, and then mass-producing the hot-end are three separate challenges. My full argument is here---> QuoteTomsand Quotereifsnyderb Keep buying the e3d knock-offs. This will drive e3d out of business and be the enby DragonFire - General
Details are sketchy to say the least, but this WILL have an impact on reprap image... And yea, it is written. "Thou shalt use pre-calcined powder for sinter use, or thou wilt get toxic fumes." That's my guess. However, others have pointed out, the "Glowforge" laser cutter/engraver was marketed as a "laser 3D printer". Cutters give out fumes much more than sinter 3d printers. Can be toxic, espby DragonFire - General
No problem, I like FDP8870, easier to find for me in the UK. Few other recommendations here;-by DragonFire - General
QuoteSedty I already checked data-sheet for P55NF06. It could handle up to 60V and 50A. Alas, this is not the case. Maximum wattage for these is about 50W, and some will blow up at 33W. Putting heatsink on the unit helps a little, but ideally the ST55 for hotbed should be upgraded on Ramps boards. IRLB8743PBF or better recommended for hotbed, as per the reprap Wiki on RAMPS. You can have hiby DragonFire - General
OK. But if the "near" factor isn't the right distance, you will have issues adjusting the distance. That is my concern - what do you do, use a bigger magnet if too close? Or a smaller magnet if it is too distant? Regular units you can adjust very easily. I really do not know how you would go about that with a digital sensor - how else do you adjust the trigger threshold if you wire it directly?by DragonFire - General
Not advisable to wire directly. Hall effect sensors usually give analog output, proportional to distance of magnetic field. All the solutions I have seen have an adjusting knob, that means you can set a point where the output is triggered to give a definite digital response to the endstop input on your controller. If you wire direct, you will have to set up manually, and that is a recompilationby DragonFire - General
Watch out for the Watterot version of the TMC 2100- that has the trim pot underneath, and a hole in the board so you can adjust it. They helpfully put "TOP" on one side of the board, but I foolishly ignored that to get the trim pot on top... oops.by DragonFire - General