Fair point. Also, if the heater doesn't get hot plugged straight into 12V, it's definitely the heater in the hotend. Can't be the MOSFET, that's bypassed by direct power. Practically all RAMPS come with inadequate MOSFETS, they were OK back in 2006 for heating a bit of PLA with one little resistor, they are not powerful enough really for hot beds, and borderline (without a heatsink) for 40W carby DragonFire - General
If you're in America or Canada, and have access to metalshaping toolss, check out this thread, it's quite recent;- Buy assembled, and modify to get maximum performance. That is one route. The advantage of buying a kit if this is your first build, is that you learn a HUGE amount from the process. The disadvantage is, you are at the mercy of the kit manufacturer - and brand is no guarantee to kby DragonFire - General
I suggest you ask Repetier, its their PROPRIETARY, NON-OPEN SOURCE software. Cura and Slic3r are recommended for Marlin firmware. Skeinforge if you want the real hardcore stuff... which is like WTF does that do? First 2 are pretty easy to use. If you wire up the hotend straight to 12V and it heats normally, it's definitely a Repetier issue. If it doesn't, then either the heater in the hotend isby DragonFire - General
Oh yah, this book is GREAT for explaining i3s and a lot about 3D printers too. But it's built around getting an i3 with Marlin running on it. You are already 95% of the way there anyway. Repetier is a propreitary firmware now, that's why a lot of folks here won't touch it. If you want to find out about Repetier, google it...by DragonFire - General
Ha. Check the wires, it will do it - heated beds usually rated up to 120C. Even the old MK 1s were that good. The snag is getting the amps to them, and if the firmware is set NEVER to go above 100C, then that's your problem. Put it another way - the PARTS will do ABS. It's just not been built to quite reach 105 on the heated bed. Like I said, to test the bed, wire the power to the hotbed straiby DragonFire - General
The printer is behaving as specced on the manufacturers page;- If you want better, you might have to replace the power supply - only gives 20Amps or so at 12V, which is about twice what you are asking for JUST the heated bed. It is also running Repetier, so I have no idea how you improve the MAXBEDTEMP setting (Marlin). Don't try putting Marlin onto it. A much better idea is to buy a replaceby DragonFire - General
Cardboard box works just as good. There isn't an "optimal" temperature. Air is a very good thermal insulator, the snag is keeping it all in the same place, and stopping colder air from cooling the hot ABS monomers too quickly. Mr Monomer does not like being colder at one end than the other above GTP, and tends to break up and find a monomer set more in tune with it's own thermal level when tooby DragonFire - General
PostIt note. Easily removable and replacing not an issue. Paper or cardboard would be my choice, silicone rubber would make MORE mess. Ignition temperature of paper without flame higher than you think, and it takes a fair amount of time to heat it up that much. Leather or suede would look nicer, I'll admit. More expensive to replace than cardboard though. They would both work just as well. Juby DragonFire - General
What I had to do to print ABS -do the adhesion layer (kapton tape or pipe weld cement liquid dried out), start the hotbed heating, and leave piece of cardboard on the heated bed until just before the print starts (ABS usually glass transition point 105). Quickly whip if otf the bed as the nozzle starts moving - the bed temp will drop a bit, but should give enough time to get that all important fiby DragonFire - General
QuoteRlewisrlou666 I've just had an idea I'll mock up a model and post it later. Y You can tell me if it would work or not or if it's already been done. Lol Hah! Real proof is trying something and seeing how well it works. Experimenting is not a binary experience.by DragonFire - General
QuoteVDX ... look at the "Drader Injectiweld" - It's generating up to 1000 bar pressure, but won't fit into "RepRap-size" Easy enough to explain, not easy to miniaturize. I think its turning the moving surfaces on a "tesla turbine" with a motor, then harvesting the pressure increase in material that flows through. It's a bit like running a bladeless turbine power generator in reverse. Snagby DragonFire - General
There are 3 values you can alter on any hot end, with patience and effort. Two are the heater and cooling combination. If the cooler is controllable, that helps a lot (controllable extruder heater coolers do NOT plug into FAN output on a RAMPS board. Slight revision, there are now two outputs called E1 fan and E2 fan, if I remember correctly, for dual extruder printers. The other thing you canby DragonFire - General
Not yet, but I was planning on a tapered bore like you suggested. Also, tailored for each bore, so a 0.1 has a slightly different profile to a 0.2. Whole lot looks pretty easy to set up as a parametric downloadable OPENJSCAD model. Tap in the filament diamenter and the bore, model is rendered in the correct dimensions and profile. To be quite honest with you, I had better investigate getting hiby DragonFire - General
Yes, UV resin printers make very accurate moulds for other processes to handle. Repraps make mechanically strong parts that are good to go. I am trying to get repraps as accurate as resin printers, Viktor. Not as quick, but not as expensive in running costs. Ball mark limit figure for theoretical extruder I'm working on is 1GPa... but I doubt the real one will have even half of that. Especialby DragonFire - General
I thought that sensor needed an amplifier board to make compatible... Maybe you got that with the sensor? EDIT: Apparently not needed on Ultimaker 2+ and Duet Wifi controllers... there is a daughter board for Duet but can use with extended Duet too... Mind you, a 300C compatible thermistor is a LOT cheaper, and still 1% accurate. Just not easy to obtain and can be very fiddly to fit.by DragonFire - General
QuoteRlewisrlou666 Something in the chemical reaction of cement curing just makes plastic fall apart. Also most readily available concrete/cement mixtures contain lye. OK, time for me to get experimenting... the hydration of concrete going from liquid mix to solid is a chemical process. Thanks for posting that. PLA does soak up water easily, ABS tends to be pretty waterproof once printed. Tby DragonFire - General
QuoteRlewisrlou666 Are any of you guys rebuilding the Cubex printers replacing the extruder assembly and living in the UK who wouldn't mind parting with it? It's an expensive job from within the UK on ebay... CubeX printers not cheap here, freight charges very high. You can get cheap Delta kits though on ebay. They look a little crude, would need some plastic parts redoing with stronger materiaby DragonFire - General
QuoteRlewisrlou666 Do not use concrete it will eat any plastic you use. How very odd, there's the PLA section saying very, very few solvents affect PLA, there's you saying EVERY SINGLE brand of concrete is INCOMPATIBLE with EVERY plastic. Must have taken you a while to try them all. Some people can used concrete and plastic combinations quite well... But of course, that video must be fake,by DragonFire - General
Wow, first time I've looked at this thread, looks like an awesome V2 to do. Nice one Digital Dentist. Ya got some nice machines and it looks awesome. Quite frankly I don't have the skills, I think, or if I did try it, it would take me a lot longer than somebody like you. My creations tend to look a bit Frankenstein, to be honest. Functional but usually a bit ugly in the finishing department.by DragonFire - General
Nice idea, huh. Not many hits for "concrete" on this forum. If you use ABS as the skinning and support material (for ABS reinforced concrete) you can cure the object very quickly in a kitchen steamer, and repair the infill with fresh ABS and smooth with acetone. Whaddya y'all thinking?by DragonFire - Casting and Moldmaking Working Group
Call the concept "Hardcore infill". How well it works depends on a LOT of factors.by DragonFire - General
One extruder infill material, other extruder skin and support. That would work, I think. Need to print skin and support watertight on the outside, liquid infill flow allowable on the inside (to use Honeycomb reinforcement pattern). But it's then quite heavy if you do use concrete... cough cough... Nanocrete... cough cough. TM. Yes, you cannot sell things as Nanocrete without a license, as I unby DragonFire - General
Depends if you want it clear and pretty or cheap and Schwarzenegger. I know what what I want when I'm designing a machine.by DragonFire - General
Uh... why not just the outside skin very fine as a vase shape... then fill it with concrete, the commonest building material? If you included support pillars to get the top roof right, it would be PLA reinforced concrete. ABS reinforced concrete would be better, and you could cure it very quickly in a kitchen steamer. You would have to sand (or even diamond! )the fill holes, depending on yoby DragonFire - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'm not a religious person, but this seems appropriate: "When I was a child, I spake as a child, I understood as a child, I thought as a child: but when I became a man, I put away childish things." Och, it disnae sounds like that do me, pal. Just my opinion.by DragonFire - General
The snag with using different layer heights on different parts of a print - clearance for the nozzle moving around. You could either print the infill tall and then have trouble attaching the fine skin layers around it. Or print the thin skin layers and then have trouble joining it on to the thick infill... What slicers do is let you print infill faster than skins, but the nozzle reaching the arby DragonFire - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist There is no protection for IP without money to pay the lawyers. It doesn't matter if you have a patent. If you don't have the $ to defend it, anyone can do whatever they want with your ideas. If you want to keep your design secret, don't put it on the internet and don't file for a patent. If you want to share it, post it on the internet. If you want to share but resby DragonFire - General
M303 command. Let it run, with filament down the hotend. About 10 minutes later, you get the optimum P, I and D values to enter into Marlin source code to hold temperature to within a degree of set FOR THAT PARTICULAR COMBINATION OF CONTROLLER, HOTEND, SENSOR, CARTRIDGE AND COOLING SYSTEM. These can vary between identical models, as electronics are built to within 1% tolerances at best (can be 2by DragonFire - General
Quoteleadinglights QuoteDragonFire Quoteleadinglights On another forum some years ago there was a thread about the change in U.S. patents from "first to invent" to "first to file". The point often made was that the first to invent something did not materially change "the state of the art" unless that invention was known to a significant (although possibly small) number of people. The best way toby DragonFire - General
I guess interior smoothness depends on grain size of the material to a certain extent... I think there might be other ways than resorting to teflon. Another problem with applying layers is getting them even. If you are applying a coat to the interior bore, it would not be as straightforward as making it smooth in the first place... QuoteVDX ... inside the nozzle this won't help much - the filamby DragonFire - General