QuoteDjDemonD No I have no indignation... I sympathise with your situation and I accept that selling them successfully might have more impact on your life than mine, I do this for a hobby and for the innovation. I am more interested to see people use this technology than the other much less suitable sensor systems out there (I have tried almost all of them, and found them all lacking) rather thanby ECJ - General
Quoteleadinglights QuoteECJ I am the author of the product being sold in Brazil via Mercado Livre. I was very surprised to find this topic and, from what I could see, I started to develop my project a long time ago. But as I've never divulged it anywhere, it gives me a sense that they caught my idea of the collective unconscious! I go very little in this forum, and I came here to talk more abby ECJ - General
QuoteDjDemonD Hi ECJ, inventions/innovations are often throughout history discovered simultaneously, its not that hard to see how the same technology, conditions and problems exist at the same time in different places and people try to solve them in parallel. I am not accusing you of copying, but there were some surprising similarities in the way the technology is presented and the youtube videosby ECJ - General
I am the author of the product being sold in Brazil via Mercado Livre. I was very surprised to find this topic and, from what I could see, I started to develop my project a long time ago. But as I've never divulged it anywhere, it gives me a sense that they caught my idea of the collective unconscious! I go very little in this forum, and I came here to talk more about the idea of using polyby ECJ - General
I was curious about your idea. How do you plan to use a 3D pen to make and repair objects? To manufacture there is no precision, and to repair, lack of adhesion of the thermoplastics. For this purpose, a resin dispenser would be much more useful. I may be wrong, but I also do not see another use for 3D pens other than fun.by ECJ - General
When pulling the film, the epoxy was all stuck to the aluminum. Even when heated. But I was able to stir it using acetone as I described earlier. Removing epoxy with a hot air gun is not a good idea. The epoxy begins to soften above 250ºC, and at this temperature only gives to scrape it with metal utensil, which damages the aluminum. Acetone is undoubtedly the best solution for this.by ECJ - General
QuoteLoboCNC You can also use a heat gun to soften epoxy and then scrape it off. Yes, and it might even be a good idea to simply pull the film with the bed well heated. I'll do those tests soon.by ECJ - General
QuoteJamesK That's good to know - thanks for testing! Before considering using on my aluminum bed, I am now gluing the film onto a small aluminum plate that I have here. I'll leave it to cure for 24 hours and try to remove. With a little luck, when pulling hard, the adhesion to the film may be greater and all the epoxy will come out along with it.by ECJ - General
I was tested to remove epoxy from aluminum using acetone. I poured some acetone and covered with pvc film to not evaporate and let it act for 5 minutes. Acetone obviously does not dilute the epoxy, but it soften and lose grip ability! Then it is possible to scrape easily with a plastic spatula or even with the nails.by ECJ - General
QuoteJamesK Did a few more tests today. ABS adhered well enough to pull the transparency off the glass again, so on to another glue... Petg seems to work really well on this surface, and since it doesn't shrink much it's less inclined to rip the sheet off the glass. On the other hand, I couldn't get enough adhesion with nylon to stop it from curling away from the bed. I suspect nylon will need anby ECJ - General
QuoteLoboCNC Do you know what type of polyester is in the transparency film you are using? 3M transparencies claim to be made of PET. Maybe a different formulation? All the transparencies I researched and tested so far are made of polyester. The polyester itself offers good adhesion and these are formulated to withstand the temperature. PET undoubtedly withstands higher temperatures than polyby ECJ - General
QuoteLoboCNC Has anyone tried adhesive-backed polyester film from McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/#8689K42)? In the description says it's PET. I already tested PET film and the result is not good. The adhesion of ABS to PET is worse than that of glass.by ECJ - General
Quotenebbian Have you considered 3M 468MP tape? It works well to stick PEI to aluminium. It really sticks well. You can remove it, although it takes a scraper, half an hour, and lots of acetone. This adhesive is the base of acrylic glue. I've tested it and the result is well below epoxy. As I said, it makes it difficult to remove the parts, and the movement of removing the parts does not lastby ECJ - General
I partially solved the weight problem using a 1.5mm glass and put a more powerful stepper motor on the Y-axis. Other types of glue do not give good results because the adhesion of the film must be rigid and firm. Otherwise the adhesion will not last long and you will have difficulty removing the printed part. That's what happened to me in relation to the acrylic glue, which lasted only 2 monthsby ECJ - General
Sorry I have not updated before, but the only thing that really works is resin or epoxy glue! The epoxy supports the high temperature and has anaerobic cure. You will need to do this over glass, as if applying the epoxy directly on the aluminum, you could not remove without damaging your bed! Apply the epoxy over the glass and over the film. Attach the parts and remove all bubbles and excess epby ECJ - General
QuoteJamesK OK, I have a fair collection of filaments, I'll let you know how I get on once the transparencies arrive. It did not arrive yet? Or were the tests a failure?by ECJ - General
Have you checked if the teeth of gears are perfect?by ECJ - General
Quoteicefire What I can try is to power the RAMPS with a computer PSU and see of there is a difference. But what does this have to do with the screen? The LCD Backlight gets power from the Arduino 5V line which is connected to the LM2596S. The hot end heater and the RAMPS get 12V through the buck converter. Since D1 is removed this has no influence on the 5V rail. So how does this lead to the scrby ECJ - General
Your PSU is probably in trouble. The only way to check this is by using a voltmeter on the 24V line to check for voltage fluctuation or drop.by ECJ - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I'd probably connect it to the air intake on a small aquarium pump and just let it run continuously. I don't understand how you're connecting the pump to this- one side gets closed off with the plastic film... what happens on the other side? I believe that an aquarium pump can not generate enough vacuum to adhere to the film with the necessary firmness. Even if there wby ECJ - General
Quotejinx Quoteipcalit white filament and a set of Sharpie permanent markers you tried that, got a pic of the result and how long it take till the dried burnt ink blocked your nozzle? I think it's worth a try. Stuffing a nozzle does not seem to be the end of the world!by ECJ - General
Quoteleadinglights I think that only a small and simple vacuum pump will be needed - if there is no leakage then a plastic syringe of about 100ml to 250ml would probably work. However, it seems a bit unlikely that a good vacuum could be held for several hours. The ideal pump is possibly a pulsing pump that only pulls when the vacuum falls below a trigger level - in a manner similar to the SU andby ECJ - General
Thanks for the mention! Your idea is great and are curious to see the result! An inexpensive way to obtain vacuum (about-90kpa), is using a refrigerator motor 1/4 HP. I have one that I use to remove air bubbles of epoxy resin in a vacuum chamber.by ECJ - General
No, I just work with ABS. I posted here in the hope of other people doing these tests.by ECJ - General
QuoteJamesK I tried it, but the transparencies I had to hand were of unknown type and origin. The part stuck too well and I had difficulty getting it off, damaging the transparency in the process. I tried to get a box of transparencies from Staples but couldn't find any! Once I do track some down I'll give it another go. They are a lot thicker than the typical kapton tape, so I'm hopeful it willby ECJ - General
Quoteto-the-nth @ECJ can you post a link to the type of transparency you are using?by ECJ - General
I am electronics technician and this is caused by leakage of AC power sources. That is, one or more fonts are with low mains isolation (which is compounded by power surges from overloads, rays, etc.). USB isolators as recommended above, avoid accidents, but do not solve the problem itself. For this it is wise to use a good grounding in the center pin from all power sources (printer, laptop, etc.)by ECJ - General
Quotemdcompositi It's difficult for me To understand this electronic scheme Needs a customized circuit board? I prefer for example a picture...by ECJ - General
Quotemdcompositi Hi guys I have a 24V 270W silicone bed with 24V 350W power supply I go to 90 degree in 40 minutes...........a biblic time! I'd like to solve this issue but I don't understand how I can power a 120V bed!! Can someone suggest me the right components? I have a fuse on my electronic board about 15A It's not clear for me how can I proceed, without burning risks..... You can use a cirby ECJ - General
I just made a new test here. I sanded the surface of the film with the help of a fine steel wool. This made the surface stay opaque, eliminating glare effect in the printed piece. And it did not compromise the adhesion capacity.by ECJ - General