QuoteNathanaelXYZ ...appears to be filament dust on the roller threads in your posted image... I noticed that too, which raises potential concerns about possible thread clogging in the future. I still like the idea of textured friction contact using bearings better, because this new approach requires some custom machining. As mentioned before by someone else, the initial concept posted seemedby obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
Your new carrier looks nice. Regarding the grit, I understand what you are saying, but is that even really necessary in this specific application? polished steel vs polished steel over a length of 1 meter, having a means to register the bearings at a precise point along a linear shaft I understand. But in this case, shouldn't rotary position be enough provided slippage through the bearings is entby obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
Ok, so need some help brain storming. What are some easy ways to evenly texture the bearings for filament grip that doesn't require specialty materials ie aluminum oxide powder or a laser. Only thing I've tried so far was heatshrink tubing which was a big fail. Thoughts on perhaps using thinned plasti-dip?by obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
For what it's worth, this is the most stimulating 3d printing discussion I've been involved with in a couple of months. Most other places are consumed with "should I slap linear rails on my ender 3". I prefer exploring new-ish concepts and ideas. So thanks for that!by obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
This is my concern as well. My proposal was to keep the 3 bearing configuration, however swap out a single bearing for a stationary threaded rod to use its thread to drive the filament.(I proposed a hex driven grub/set screw) I actually purchased 3 screws and am going to try using 3 stationary threaded sections without any bearings configured in a similar fashion to a thread die, instead of my inby obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
I like it, I was concerned that the screw being on a bearing would just sit in place as the carrier spins around the filament, but if its working like this then I stand corrected. My brain can only visualize so much I guess. What about just using a single stationary grub screw with 2 bearings as an alternative (and more off-the-shelf) approach? I think that could work well. I might go to a hardby obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
Do you have a screenshot of the updated design? I've been mocking up some simple experiments using 10deg pitch with some 683zz bearings and heatshrink to provide friction, I'm still dialing in tolerances on my design/print. Another thing I've been struggling to calculate is the amount of relative force this setup provides. the bearing, to filament diameter comes out to a ratio of roughly 4.28.by obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
You've left out some useful details, however generally to calibrate your extruder you first have to ensure your steps/mm is calibrated properly. So when you command 100mm of filament to be pushed through, 100mm of filament actually gets moved. You do this with a pair of digital calipers (if you don't have this already, get one). Measure out roughly 120mm of filament from where it enters your extrby obelisk79 - Printing
Well, you've certainly piqued my interest. So, I've been mulling this concept over in my head a bit and had an idea, although I'm not sure how feasible this would be.and may result in more twisting of the filament, but what if the bearings rotation axis was slightly canted to apply the corner edge of the bearing to the filament with some light machining/grinding/sanding to provide a sharp 90 degby obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
If you are going to use any kind of mesh bed leveling or spring-steel build plate I'd skip the expense of the tooling plate and just go with borosilicate glass. that tooling plate flatness won't do you much good with multiple layers of magnets and metal which by-design aren't flat. But that is just my opinion. Cast tooling plate certainly won't hurt, I just think it becomes an unnecessary expensby obelisk79 - Tech-Talk
I agree with the sentiment that the community writ-large has shifted towards commercial off-the-shelf options. Not that the concept of self replicating/repairing has completely died, but it is certainly no-longer the prevailing mindset of the 3d printing newcomer. I also generally agree that large percentages just 3d print as a means to an end. I personally spend much more time tinkering/designinby obelisk79 - General
Given the popularity of hobby 3d printing, you'd think this forum would be booming. It would be nice to coordinate with some popular vendors to host official support subforums here to generate more traffic to the site and rebuild the community.by obelisk79 - General
There is a pretty active discord server for klipper, it isn't as useful as a forum in my opinion, but you can usually get help there including the availability of the main dev.by obelisk79 - General
Here is where you can contact Mutley3D Also, plenty of people still like to make/design their own stuff. So reprap is still alive in spirit, but splintered and obscured by all of the cheap Chinese turn-key options that people tend to start off with and the assorted communities on reddit/facebook/discord. It probably doesn't help that some of the old-dogs around here tend to be a bit intolerantby obelisk79 - General
If you wanted to do something like a 1:1 gearing on a remote direct drive type setup, you'd need a gimballed motor with a telescoping spline shaft to drive the extruder hob, that is likely possible, but would come along with its own uniquedesign/engineering challenges.by obelisk79 - Delta Machines
I'm going to use some hypothetical numbers to help explain. Every flexible driveshaft will have different characteristics. Let us presume your have a flexible drive shaft which can twist up to 90 degrees at one end compared to the other. This is known as torsional deflection. 90 degrees of 'sloppy' rotation can be cause for a great deal of inaccuracy in a positioning system. But when you divideby obelisk79 - Delta Machines
The worm gearing is to compensate for twist in your flex shaft not to allow the use of a smaller motor. The smaller motor is necessary to meet the inertial needs of the high gear ratio at the hotend. I use a cheap pancake nema 1.8deg motor with decent specs for the purpose.by obelisk79 - Delta Machines
What I mean by low moment of inertia is a characteristic of the motor, not mass of the gears at the hotend. Low moment of inertia allows the motor to make rapid high velocity direction changes without lost steps. If you gear the flex shaft at the motor to reduce the motor shaft speeds involved, you could use a full sized motor. You don't really need high torque motors for this because the gear rby obelisk79 - Delta Machines
Remote direct drive extruders use high gearing and smaller, less powerful motors. The reason for that in my humble understanding is because of the motor speeds involved you need a lower moment of inertia to prevent step loss in high velocity direction changes. The gearing involved in 'remote direct drive', which is usually a worm gear, is used to mitigate the effects of mechanical variations thby obelisk79 - Delta Machines
I see very little real innovation in fff/fdm printing. Mostly rehashing of old ideas and concepts that on rare occasion hasn't been applied to 3D printing yet. So in that regard, I find patents counter-intuitive towards the existing phase of iterative progress/improvement I feel the hobby is currently in. Something truly innovative and new deserves a patent if the person who came up with the ideaby obelisk79 - General
Thingieverse has had performance issues for years, yet it continues to be the go-to. Yes you have to filter through a bunch of barely functional designs that seen to be more concerned with aesthetics than performance. But I've yet to find a better alternative. I design all of my printer parts. It was a motivation if mine from day one after I got my first used printer. Did it cost me more? Yes. Dby obelisk79 - General
Klipper allows for the use of multiple mcu's so that may be an option for you as well.by obelisk79 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Just go with Hermera, get quality, and save cash? Unless you've already ordered the bmg...by obelisk79 - General
In my opinion? The mosquito is nice, but it's also marketed hype and grossly priced. An E3D with a titanium heatbreak performs. I don't get stringing with PETG and my volcano and I'm using a Bowden setup. Tuning retracts was a pain but makes all the difference. That said, if you've got the money, and are willing to spend it you do you. I'm not a fan of groove mounting either but I hate slick mby obelisk79 - General
White vinegar also works well for cleaning build surfaces. I heat my bed to 50c and gently rub the plates several times to get any residue and oils off the surface. The heat ensures it evaporates quickly to avoid any risk of damage from letting the vinegar stay on the surface too long.by obelisk79 - Printing
If it's in your budget, 6mm cast tooling plate with a keenovo silicone heating pad would be better.by obelisk79 - General