Will not work. Every feature has different speed, first layer, outer shell, infill, bridges. Cannot set extrusion multiplier for each. Also, it is not linear at all to set one number.by ArtemKuchin - General
How luck for RepRapFirmware users Unfortunatelly i use Marlin which does not have such feature as of now. Slicers do not have feature too. So, is such situation for better quality i am stuck al low speed or at least low speed for external shells and layers. Good to know that it was found before and i am not crazyby ArtemKuchin - General
Hello! Behold my experimental data CONDITIONS: White PLA (local cheap brand) 1,75mm, 0.6mm nozzle, 200C temperature, nozzle is 50mm from the bed. MK8 extruder (direct, not geared, not belted, approx 100 steps/mm) I extrude some length and some feedrate and then weight on a very precise scales (0.01g) Extru feed extusion weight (g) sion rate diameter length (mm) 200 6by ArtemKuchin - General
Did test. Timer0 really overflows millions of times. Lucky probably nobody uses this option.by ArtemKuchin - Firmware - Marlin
One more thing. while ((uint32_t)(TCNT0 - pulse_start) < STEP_PULSE_CYCLES - CYCLES_EATEN_BY_CODE) { /* nada */ } but time counter is never reset, so, it can actually overflow during ISR and this comparison will not hold true for some timeby ArtemKuchin - Firmware - Marlin
Hello! I decided to look at the code to understand how things work in multistepping and found some thing which bother me Don't judge me too hard please and excuse me if i a blind and do not see obvious things. 1) Multistepping switch is independant of CPU speed if (step_rate > 20000) { // If steprate > 20kHz >> step 4 times step_rate >>= 2; step_loopsby ArtemKuchin - Firmware - Marlin
material, slicer, print parametersby ArtemKuchin - Printing
No, it is not z axis. Provide details about this print. Material, all settings.by ArtemKuchin - Printing
Problem solved. Or the cause is found, real solution is to be found yet. I took heater from screws, turned a little, Used some stuff to hold the heater stuck to the bottom of the bed. No banding, perfect 1 shell cylinder, perfect 2 shell cylinder. Very stable bed temperature because when heater was bending its central part was going down from the bed. Not it is stuck to bed.by ArtemKuchin - Printing
Aha, we are getting closer. Check that power is supplied to the extruder driver. +12V usually. Check board schematics/pcb layout/pinouts to find it. As you said you replaces the electronics, but did no specify what exactly Put a known good driver into E driver socket. Check if E works. If not - check power supply for the driver. If present then need to disconnect everything and test every tracesby ArtemKuchin - Printing
Your knowledge is extremely valuable for me now. Turns out nothing in 3d printing can be taken by default. Everything need to checked, understood and rechecked. First, my plate is not 5mm, it is puny 3mm. Secondly it is really NOT flat. In Y axis it is bulging in the middle, in X the left and rights edges are higher then center. Crazy form. The difference i estimate between 0.1-0.2mm. Lucky i aby ArtemKuchin - Printing
Okay, now do vice-versa: connect E driver to X motor and move extruder and see if X motor moves.by ArtemKuchin - Printing
Aha, it was you Your plate is 1/4" roughly 6mm My current aluminum plate is about 5mm. Not much different, isn;t it? Not sure if it is cast or not. Does it matter?by ArtemKuchin - Printing
Then check stepper coils with multimeter. But stepper rarely burn out and you alreay replaced it. Did you changes the drivers? Need to see output from the drivers. For that oscilloscope is needed. The least you can do it to check driver power supply. But you can plug this stepper into some other driver (for example, for X axis) and do G1 X1 and see if it moves. Yes, and test the wires, of couby ArtemKuchin - Printing
What exactly has quit woprking? Stepper? Hot end? If hot end the did you check its resistance with multimeter?by ArtemKuchin - Printing
He writes "he high temperature silicone is used to attach the heater to the new bed plate." I can do the same, remove holes for screws from the heater and use silicone to attach it to the bed plate. I doubt that the heater can bend aluminum plate, but it can push the screws like it does now. If i can find softer kind of silicon than it can even compensate for bending. I thought that silicon doeby ArtemKuchin - Printing
Aha! I suspected i stumbled upon something inherently systematic for such type of printers. I do not use glass because i don't understand how it might help. If it is not firmly coupled on top of aluminum bed then it will wiggle up and down and change inclination when bed deforms. As i see it the best way is to decouple somehow the heater from the bed, so, when the heater bows it does not push anby ArtemKuchin - Printing
Do a hollow cylinder d=20mm, h=30, 0 top layers, 1 bottom layer, 5mm skirt, set spiral mode and print it. Then take it and see it though light. Do it 1) PLA no heated bed 2) PLA heated bed 3) ABS Ideally they should be uniform, not banding. Post or describe results.by ArtemKuchin - Printing
I have prusa i3 clone called Tronxy P802MA from aliexpress. Made of acryl. It has a MK2A hot bed. I coupled X and Z axis the first thing by installed anto Z wobble thing After that verticals became very streight. No wave. I print only PLA. 1) After X and Z were decoupled vertical walls became smooth but every N lays i get a layer sticking out in all direction, but that happened only when i useby ArtemKuchin - Printing