The SPI pins are on the AUX3 header on the BASE, so that’s all fine. But the issue you have is that with integrated drivers, you’re going to struggle to get the EN, DTEP and DIR signals you need. I strongly suggest you just throw in the towel and get an MKS GEN instead. They’re £/$/€ 20 ish. Also, don’t be tempted by the slightly cheaper FYSETC Chinese TMC2130 drivers; they’re wired for standalby slippyr4 - General
What did you set motherboard to in configuration.hby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
A 128x64 lcd will just be a clone reprapdiscount graphic smart controller, which just needs the corresponding line in marlins configuration.h uncommenting.by slippyr4 - General
“Next I Home the z axis” What firmware? Do you have an end stop? In most firmwares, homing an axis equates to moving it to the endstop (that’s a known position) and then loading the value configured with M851 as the current Z. That completely overrides all you are doing with G92, which would not be saved to EEPROM anyway.by slippyr4 - General
What do you have in slic3r -> printer settings -> custom g-code -> tool change g-code ?by slippyr4 - General
Isn’t it part of your slicers tool change script?by slippyr4 - General
QuoteFlyerAny suggestions (except the obvious "move to Cura") ?? move to Simplify3Dby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
100k is nominal; (obviously) it varies with temperature so 85k is nothing to worry about. What is your bed resistance? (Remember to subtract your probe lead resistance (the value your meter shows when you short the probes together))by slippyr4 - General
Out of interest, what filament is the grey one? it looks nice.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
You're looking for M851 which changes that exact value. But you could just use different first layer height settings in the material profiles of your slicer.by slippyr4 - General
Quotevfwfw I have been looking at that board and wondering if it was any better. Do the same A4988 stepper drivers fit the MKS board? The MKS GEN, yes - it takes "standard" polulu type plug in drivers. The BASE has integrated (not replacable) A4988s. I have used a gen on a 24V printer with a bed running about 220W so about 9A and it's fine; the printer I have with the MKS base has 12V and aboutby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'd personally not bother with ramps at all. The MKS GEN and MKS base are much better boards, with an extra mosfet you can use for another extruder or a fan and the bed mosfet ar capable of enough amps. They cost about the same as a budget ramps clone and budget arduino mega clone together. And are pin/firmware compatible with ramps.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I've generally found the generic white wired eBay /aliexpress ones to work best with thermistor type 11.by slippyr4 - General
That board looks like a clone of an MKS BAse.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotesylviatrilling I am a bit reluctant to change the firmware as it will void the seller's warranty. but your printer is a dirt cheap model, and you started this thread talking about replacing it with a printer costing much, much more - so what do you have to lose flashing better firmware? very little.by slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteKnedberg09 My fan has no ducts. Simple fane mounted to the face of the extruder motor. That therefore sounds like it's your extruder cooling fan and not a part cooling fan, which Roberts_Clif was discussing above. That fan is important and not optional; without it you'll get problems including frequent blocking of the extruder. I'm assuming from your description that you've got a MK8 stylby slippyr4 - Prusa i3 and variants
See Google any part numbers on your stepper to see if you can find the rates current. If you can't find it out you might have to guess. My clone has 0.85A motorsby slippyr4 - General
The board is pin compatible with RAMPS 1.4 and 24v capable. They’re good boards. Geometry is a consideration when changing from makerbot/mightyboard to ramps/marlin. In the makerbot world the origin is the bed centre, but usually on marlin based printers the origin the the bed front left. It actually doesn’t really matter but your slicer and your firmware need to agree where the origin is, orby slippyr4 - General
You could do it by wiring it up with rather the plugin directly. the connector covers all four servo pins but it only actually uses two of them.by slippyr4 - General
Quotejinx think if i was going 24V I use mks mosfet to control the bed, inpart to keep the heat off the main board. False logic; for a given power the current is lower at 24v so the heating in the MOSFET is lower.by slippyr4 - General
I’d like much better support for macros in the scripts, and optional scripts for layer change and so on.by slippyr4 - General
Totally agree about independent X carriages being the best option. Which firmwares are ready to go with tha? Pretty sure reprapdirmware does, are there any orhers?by slippyr4 - General
Is interesting on the mixing topic.by slippyr4 - General
QuoteDjDemonD Another question on this topic, the e3d cyclops 2in1out with 1 nozzle is described as switching not mixing, so is the junction between the two filament paths in the heatbreak or heater block? If it's in the heater block why isn't this considered a mixing hotend? I’ve wondered that myself. The mixer is in the block, and, in their engineering drawings ( ) they call it a “mix block”.by slippyr4 - General
Surely a simple DC motor with integrated gearbox is going to be a much better solution for this problem? Using a stepper for this is over engineering it quite a bit.by slippyr4 - General
looks about right but i can't read the writing!!by slippyr4 - General
Quotetheblindsaint So I'm also replacing the endstops then. It's probably a good idea to stick with mechanical stops and not optical right? ADo these look right? You could do but you don’t need to. I’ll figure out later which wire is the one you don’t need, and you can keep the current ones.by slippyr4 - General
Re: fan, the extruder fan you will connect to the supply so it runs all the time. Without it you will get blocked extruder sand your prints will fail. What I am talking about is a part cooling fan which you would typically use for PLA and PETG and really should have been on your printer in the first place. You’ll need to print a duct or mount for it (many designs on thingiverse) but this reallyby slippyr4 - General
Quotetheblindsaint A small conclusion for now this is my shopping list correct? The thermistor and stepper drivers aren’t right. Why not get this board: which comes with the drivers you need And the thermistors from eBay as above, or,by slippyr4 - General
Headers are the connector bodies. Your printer uses 4 pin ones (of type JST-XH) and the new board needs 3 pin ones. You can leave the green wire disconnected and you will be able to remove the pins from the existing header and pop them into a new one. You can see what I did on the photo I posted earlier (which is of my mks gen board installed in my replicator clone printer) One of the many generby slippyr4 - General