It was on page 15 and 16 of this thread, where I showed my solution. Here I have a Delta with a square bed (because I had it at home) with 4 point fixing. - But I did not realy fix it :-) It was about 2 month ago I did this modification, and I'm very happy with it. First Layer height of 0,1mm is no problem. So again a special thanks for having the idea and developping it!by Dancer - General
If you did not change anything in the Firmware, it sounds like you migth have burnt a stepper driver. Unless your soldering skills are superb, I fear this is the end for your mini RAMBO Board...by Dancer - Reprappers
@Filament: Depends on where in the world you are. personally I like PLA because ABS tends to warp much more. Good & cheap supplier for PLA in Europe is http://www.dasfilament.deby Dancer - General
Well... I think 52 pages to read should be enough to start from :-) http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?178,540379by Dancer - General
Try running your Laptop on Battery - without Powercord, and see if Problem persists. If solved, might be some kind of ground loop. Try to Power your printer and Laptop from the same socket, Maybe (if possible) turn Powerplug of Laptop 180° to exchange Line and Neutral. If problem still persists - I do not have another clue.by Dancer - General
QuoteVido I will stick with Marlin because Im sure that people who develop it will do even better job with 32-bit version, I cant wait for proper Re-Arm board Me to. I have 2 printers, both with Marlin, both with Mega/RAMPS. Tried Repetier - gave up after 2 month of fiddling. I simply can not afford to buy something like Duet. Keep up the good work on Marlin!by Dancer - General
Distance between Nozzle and Printplate to big, thus first layer not adhering to your blue painters tape.by Dancer - Prusa i3 and variants
both thumbs up! I do use RAMPS exklusively too, as all the 32bit boards are much to expensive for me, and/or do not have the possibility to change the stepper driver, if I burn one. Well I see, my next project will be a diamond hotend for my delta XXL, as soon as I'm able to buy a RAMPSXB.. Damn. Just got ready - and you give me another projectby Dancer - Developers
That are the most important Codes - M502 + M500. If anything goes wrong theese are the first I do. - But beware! You have to have your correct settings hard coded, to be able to print afterwards without reconfiguring everything!by Dancer - Reprappers
As far as I understand the Hackaday-Link, it is something simple like this: Rotary Encoder with an arduino nano giving alarm. If you program the nano to set an output pin and connect it to an alarm port of your printer-controller (e.g.: out of filament) it's easy. if you are familiar with the printer-firmware, you could even directly connect the encoder to your printer-controller and include theby Dancer - Developers
You mean something like this? http://www.3ders.org/articles/20170202-38-filament-roller-uses-sensor-prevent-3d-printer-filament-stoppages.html or http://hackaday.com/2015/06/16/prevent-failed-prints-with-a-filament-speed-sensor/ or https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IeAWIFibcocby Dancer - Developers
Did your printer ever print correct dimensions? - If not check your steps/mmby Dancer - Printing
@OG I assume you are printing PLA because of the temperatures. Might it be possible you are printing top layer with extremely fine extrusion width at average speed? ( = low ammount of PLA used) Or do you even have a hotend-fan? - Is it at 100% all the time? Both things might result in heat creeping up the hotend, PLA getting to soft and thus clogging. After some more preasure sometimes it coby Dancer - Delta Machines
QuoteDjDemonD Sounds like you are making progress. 0.02mm deviation is not bad. Keep us posted. std. dev on my Delta Mini with M48: 0.0134 One Microstep is 0.0125mm I think this is the end of getting better with RAMPS and 1/16 microstepping.by Dancer - General
Here are my Pictures - Hope they are useful for somebody.by Dancer - General
QuoteDjDemonD I usually use -0.1 probe offset as technically the probe triggers below the bed. We are used to probes which trigger above the bed and have positive offsets. The std deviation suggests your probing setup is close to optimal so for tighter levelling its probably worth looking at mechanics of the machine. After quite a lot of testing tonight (it's nearly 23:00): std.deviation wholby Dancer - General
it is not 9.3mm - it is 1/8" --> All versionsby Dancer - General
Well. Yes that might be the problem. Carriages are with 4 POM-Rollers directly on 2020 extrusions, no linear rails. Arms are 6mm OD / 4mm ID Aluminium-Tubes with cheap chineese Traxxas-Like ball-joints Effector is printed on my kossel mini - which until now is only calibrated by hand - so maybe some deviation from here. Hotend-Mount - printed too, but extremely tight - nearly could not mount itby Dancer - General
Well you are absolutely right with offset-direction. Think I need to reduce - not to increase! When I had Z-Offset 0.0 it did not perfectly stick. But maybe, I over-compensated. Will try tonight and report back (right now I'm not at home) Good to hear my probing setup is close to optimal - even with aboslutely no bolting together. Mechanics might be the problem - it is a Delta with 1000mm verticby Dancer - General
std. deviation in Marlin with M48 0.0089 Especially, as my heatbed is not bolted anywhere. Just Cups with the Piezo put in it, and Inserts (for the Cups) bolted to the heatbed. I can easily take away the whole heatbed without any screw. I'll try to take some pictures tonight and maybe upload openscad-Files for my parts. What do you use as Probe Offset? X0 Y0 Z0.2 is slightly to low on my machinby Dancer - General
QuoteAlexander Mundy Printed these mounts for underbed on my delta to replace the FSR's. Black parts are CF PETG and white are 40 hardness TPEE. Should I install the piezo's as shown or with the solid metal side against the plunger or does it matter? Don't have time tonight to install them and test, but will report back when I do. Edit: mockup showed I designed the plungers a little too tall sby Dancer - General
Thanks a lot DJ for implementation in Marlin! On my old Delta I'm still on Marlin 1.1.0 RC6 - works great for me. For my new Delta (under construction) this will make it much easier to get everything tuned for the Under-Bed-Piezos! And if I manage to get them working properly, my old Delta will get an upgrade too. Old Delta = Sintron Kossel Mini New Delta = Reused parts of an Anet A2 and soby Dancer - General
Hi DJ, I was shortly thinking of using your pcb, but as the circuit diagram is open source, and I do have the knowledge of printed circuits (and on a first look) do have all the necessary electronic parts at home, I will do the soldering myself. And as I plan going for under-bed-piezos there is no necessarity for SMD - I can - without any problems - use THT. I think it will be late autumn or eby Dancer - General
Had a similar Problem just this weekend. SD-Card was readable on one controller, but not the other. Turned out, another SD-Card broke and left a really tiny plastic piece in the SD-Slot. Removed it, everything working again.by Dancer - General
Was not here in this forum quite a while. Just now looking into building my next printer. Until now I never used any sensor for longer than just testing, because they all failed the sooner or later. For my next build I do consider using under-bed piezo discs (already have a pack of 10 at home ) Will be some time till I get to testing them - have to start frame-construction in the next weeks. Iby Dancer - General
@ chriske: Your Printer does look very interesting! - It avoids many of the Ultimaker-Problems, but keeps the good parts of it! Could you share your files (stl) with us, so we could build such one too? The thingiverse-Links I found in your Posts do not work... :-(by Dancer - General
I have two similar to your first link in action with 1,75mm Filament. --> No Problems. 1,75mm never disappears in the Groove of the bearing, so no Problem there.by Dancer - Reprappers
Well, in Europe there are some Areas with ground and neutral connected to the same busbar, but there are much more Areas where there is no direct connection between ground and neutral. In theese cases, the only connection between those two is some kilometers away at the transformationn Station. Your house has its own grounding to earth and the current you are putting on ground wire really has toby Dancer - General
Quotenewbob Here's an idea: have smoke detector relay connected to GFCI outlet that 3D printer is connected to. When smoke is detected, relay shunts hot to ground (through current limiting resistors) triggering GFCI protection. Simple and independent of 3D circuitry that could be on fire and unable to process relay input in software. Thats not nice to do a power short, just to do Switch off.by Dancer - General
It's always a good Idea to build your 2nd Printer while the first one stil around and working :-) You can reprint parts for your 2nd one as often as needed:-)by Dancer - General