They have heat sinks you can buy for the Stepper motor driver chips. I would put a 60mm fan to help cool the controller parts. The stepper motors drivers have a current adjustment that can be made this may allow for a reduced current to help keep them cooler.by Roberts_Clif - General
I would start by posting a video on you-tube and attaching a link here. It will be a lot easier to determine whats wrong if we can see and hear whats going on.by Roberts_Clif - General
Have you considered the stepper motor cable wiring. I had a stepper cable that each pair was wired A+ to B+ and B- to A-, and I changed wire Pairs to A+ to A- and B+ to B-. Cable makers do make mistakes.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
It was worth a try! lots have forgot them.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
RAMPS 1.4 Assembly Guide Insert jumpers to RAMPS 1.4 --------------------------------------------------- 4by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
Quotedenos QuoteRoberts_Clif What if do not use either, does this mean I should choose "#define PIDTEMPBED" //#define PIDTEMPBED //#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING I'm guessing that if neither are defined that it goes with bang-bang as that will work in every scenario without tuning. So maybe it's just a matter of defining PIDTEMPBED. Thank youby Roberts_Clif - Printing
What if do not use either, does this mean I should choose "#define PIDTEMPBED" //#define PIDTEMPBED //#define BED_LIMIT_SWITCHINGby Roberts_Clif - Printing
Quotegsport Thanks for sharing that, sorry if my title seemed silly, I just wanted to make it clear that I have been searching previous posts on the subject. I know it is possible or I wouldn't be trying. George I knew you had, wanted to show you BigRep but I got carried away, an keep on typing. I too want to make my 3D printers larger, Thought would start with an upward jump to 600mm. Whichby Roberts_Clif - General
That is a mosfet and for someone who has electronics training it removes very easily. Someone told me that they could do it, however they used the wrong equipment, got the parts to hot, ripping the circuit board traces away from the board destroying the circuit board. If you lookup the part on the internet and purchase it you can go the your local technical collage with an electronics departmentby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure what you mean, this Erectorbot Fused Filament Fabrication 3D Printer has Build Size: 6096 x 2133.6 x 1828.9 mm or 23 cubic meters with mechanical printing speeds 1000mm/sec, this printer uses a .70 tip. (They called it a tip 'I would have called it a nozzle') DUS Architects and Fiction Factory Fused Filament Fabrication 2.2 x 2.2 x 3.5 m Traktus 3D Fused Filament Fabrication 1000 mm diaby Roberts_Clif - General
Quotemartin1454 QuoteRoberts_Clif I have a single filament single nozzle and my LCD display says "E1 heating...." also so this may be misleading, because others have stated the same. will be watching this as want to learn this myself. Hmm... Intresting..... Might have to look a bit deeper into the hardware then - Try Here Firmware configuration for the E3D Cyclopsby Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
I have a single filament single nozzle and my LCD display says "E1 heating...." also so this may be misleading, because others have stated the same. will be watching this as want to learn this myself.by Roberts_Clif - Firmware - Marlin
I purchased a ADM02 DVM, Did not need an expensive DVM already have a Fluke just need to verify temperatures. Thou now I use it more than the Fluke as it has a lighted screen. And auto-ranging features. Cost me $12 and change, used it on my 3D Printer had almost exactly the same temperature readings.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
Yes the PTFE can become distorted cause your delima, Have had several filament throat Barrel PTFE liners go bad. Been told that if you change from PLA to ABA and back to PLA the different materials leaves a residue this causes the filament to get stuck in the Nozzle. When replacing the throat Barrel make sure the barrel is screwed in far enough so when you screw the nozzle in it rest on the barrby Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
It could be as simple as the ribbon cable wire size is too small for the length of the run. OR Electrical energy (EFI) can cause many problems, with computers in close proximity being coupled with bed Heater, Nozzle Heater and steppers only aggravates the situation. A test would be to place the LCD / SD card as far away from the Printer as possible, and if the LCD / SD works there then I woulby Roberts_Clif - General
Sometimes pictures help, Thou in this case more information is required. Is kind of sounds like between your slicing software and your 3D Printer the borders are different. Example you have a 220x270 bed that is defines as a 270x220 bed. OR Your configuration is off and the printer thinks it is at max on that axis. Yes it would be help-full to have more information. Is this factory firmware orby Roberts_Clif - Printing
See the Other Mosfet the pin has a black boarder completely around it, The connection point is on the side of the board. Allow me to the other side of the boardby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Start Cura 15.04.6 ("any thing else may look different than this") Plug USB cable into Computer and 3D Printer Click on Machine "Select The Printer You Are Using Radio button" Then Click on Machine Settings A new Window will appear Select Serial Port "do not select auto" Select Baudrate "Set your Baudrate" Set up your print bed size if not already done. Load a STL anything will do as we will noby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
As you have not stated what firmware will assume Marlin. If you have Marlin firmware this should work. Do a 'lets say factory reset' Cura "PronterFace" In your printer software send a M502 ' This will send the command to read firmware defaults. Then In your printer software send a M500 ' This will send the command to Save settings to EEProm.by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Hello If you look at your own picture you will see two other MOSFETS above. your solder extends so far that it is shorting out the MOSFET. The pad is a little rectangle using some solder wick remove about two thirds of the solder then try again.by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Thank you! I Have the the T8-2 Trapezoidal single start lead screws this is not the 4-Start, though I have that lead screw on my 2nd Printer. By using the lower 2mm pitch in lieu of the 8mm pitch. A single start lead screw with the tightest pitch possible is generally your best bet for the z-axis The T8-4 start is a more aggressive lead screw and will require more torque to drive. Using the Tby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
It appears that you are connecting at 115200 "in Red" Connecting to: /dev/ttyACM0 Connecting to: /dev/ttyACM0 Changing monitoring state from 'Detecting serial port' to 'Opening serial port' Connected to: Serial(port='/dev/ttyACM0', baudrate=115200, bytesize=8, parity='N', stopbits=1, timeout=10.0, xonxoff=False, rtscts=False, dsrdtr=False), starting monitor Then here you are disconnecby Roberts_Clif - General
Today I finally replaced my Hictop All thread lead screws with some T8-2 Trapezoidal lead screws. "8MM with a 2mm pitch per turn" #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 1600, 94.4962144 } The job took less than a hour to complete including updating the firmware for the new lead screws. I do not tighten the main screws until all is in-place as that little bit of slack is sometimes all youby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
What settings are you using.by Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants
Agreed you need a larger power supply.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
Have your PID Numbers been changedby Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
Hope this helps.by Roberts_Clif - General
Please answer these question for us to assist you. Power Supply voltage and Current, show wiring for heat bed, do you know what size wire you are using to power the Controller and Heat bed. Have you taken any voltage measurements during the heating process. voltage on power supply, voltage on controller and voltage on heat bed. This information will make it easier to assist you.by Roberts_Clif - Reprappers
QuoteKnedberg09 Hello All, New to this game. I recently finished building my unit and ran the test software to dial in the limits and settings. I noticed while the tutorial asked to heat the unit up with the fan going 100% that I would never achieve the target temp of 230c the fan simply cooled it down. Without the fan I was able to achieve a hot enough unit to extrude filiment but that took aby Roberts_Clif - Prusa i3 and variants