Don't build a CR-10 like printer if you want to go fast (a bed moving in the Y axis is really not a good idea). CoreXY or Delta are more reasonable choices. If you want to use multiple tool heads then a cartesian style printer is the better choice imho.by whosrdaddy - Delta Machines
CoreXY has the advantage that both X and Y motors are stationary, whereas in normal Cartesian printers, the X motor will move along the Y or Z axis. So you will have less weight on the gantry. Also in CoreXY mode, both motors will contribute to a X or Y move (except for 45° moves)by whosrdaddy - CoreXY Machines
Nice Idea, I have a pile of HDD's laying around somewhereby whosrdaddy - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDust But without it your first layer may be incomplete,,, resulting in a failed print. yes, the skirt is used to prime the hotend...by whosrdaddy - Printing
It is called a "skirt" in most slicers, you can disable that in the slicer.by whosrdaddy - Printing
Just buy some kapton tape and apply that to your bed. You can find 10/20 cm tape width for cheap on Amazon. If you are careful enough when removing the parts, the tape will last for several prints. Clean with alcohol or with moist microfiber cloth. That being said, printing ABS on a I3 (clone) is not easy (if you want to print big parts), best is to enclose the printer and set the heated bed asby whosrdaddy - Reprappers
Regarding the PSU, don't skimp on that part, buy an original mean well. You first need to decide which bed you want to buy as this will influence the choice of the PSU.by whosrdaddy - General
Maybe you have greasy fingerprints on the tape? I always clean the tape after a print with hot water or isopropyl alcohol and microfiber cloth.by whosrdaddy - Printing
Ditch the inductive probe and go for a piezo setup, much more precise and less weight on the X-carriage (see this thread) 24V PSU is a must if you want to print ABS.by whosrdaddy - General
well, he did ask for help here?by whosrdaddy - General
QuoteDjDemonD Where do you position your two? See my photo on page 40?by whosrdaddy - General
QuoteDjDemonD I have started doing a bit more probing when cold. I think it does lower noise and perhaps improve accuracy, but it's harder to clean the nozzle and of more benefit if you can switch off your fans, which on more basic controller boards isn't usually an option. Consider a noise cancelling piezo. I just bonded 3 under my corexy bed and suddenly it's working much better. They areby whosrdaddy - General
Quoteokercho Quotewhosrdaddy Yes, is working like a charm. Z offset is -0.14 for my setup. The back of the bracket houses a bit space for the piezo. Cool, that's more or less what I've in my "traditional groovemount" setup, so the accuracy/pressure needed seems to be quite similar . Just curious, are you doing the probing with the nozzle cold or hot? I know is better (and recommended by the Precby whosrdaddy - General
Quoteokercho Quotewhosrdaddy Tekkydave, just put the piezo between the mount and xcarriage, this results in a more sturdy setup (and you gain some z-height in the process) Thingiverse link I will give it a try in the CoreXY I'm rebuilding, but probably with a Bondtech instead of a Titan, although that should make no difference. Are you getting good results with that setup? What Z Offset you'veby whosrdaddy - General
Tekkydave, just put the piezo between the mount and xcarriage, this results in a more sturdy setup (and you gain some z-height in the process) Thingiverse linkby whosrdaddy - General
Quoteo_lampe I found a counter-intuitive setting, which might be worth mentioning. I had a deaf area on my bed ( underbed sensors ) where PP didn't trigger reliable. That caused the effector to bend and, cautious person I am, made me reduce probing speed ( works well with proximity sensors ). But it got worse. You have to raise probe speed ( 1000mm/s IIRC ) until you hear a nice tap. Yes, fasterby whosrdaddy - General
Here is my underbed setup: you can see the 2 "microphone" piezos taped to the frame and the 2 sensing piezos fitted inside the TPU feet. Each pair of piezos are wired together (+ connected to - and vice versa), this means that they have to be oriented in the same way. Here is a small video so you can see how it works: As you can see, it won't trigger if I tap the surrounding frame, only tapby whosrdaddy - General
I am using a 4 piezo (2+2 noise canceling) setup and find it working quite well on my coreXY (gantry moves in Z) Underbed on a moving Z gantry is not an option, a carriage based/hotend based solution would be better in that case. I found that tweaking my underbed setup was not challenging at all once I added the noise canceling piezos. The 20 mm piezo sits in a foot made from TPU and it is veryby whosrdaddy - General
Erm, I might be mistaken, but isn't the red led the power led, and the blue led the trigger led. At least that's how it is on my v2 board?by whosrdaddy - General
QuoteMKSA Could you test if their hobbed gear is really heat treated ? That is hardened and a hacksaw or a chinese file should not bite into it. I have no intention to ruin my perfect working extruder I don't know if it is hardened steel (it is certainly steel) and frankly I don't really care as long as it is doing it's job...by whosrdaddy - General
I bought 3 titan aero's from Trianglelabs (mated will real E3D blocks) and they do perform wonderful. The biggest gripe I have with E3D atm is the pricing, it's too expensive. For the same price of 1 real Titan Aero, I now have 3 clones...by whosrdaddy - General
Weren't you running and underbed piezo setup on your mini delta? I made some feet in TPU for my bed with a cavity for the piezo and it works just fine. I heat up the bed to 110 and then perform Z-homing/calibration and always have perfect 1st layers...by whosrdaddy - General
Why not bond the piezos to the bed? no drilling, less hassleby whosrdaddy - General
Nice one! Will try this with my under-bed setup tonight as I am getting false triggers during probing sometimes. (which is not a big problem as you can probe multiple times in recent Duet firmwares)by whosrdaddy - General
I use kapton tape on aluminium, no need for sticky food on my bed...by whosrdaddy - General
QuoteIsmangil Now I've got Precision Piezo working, I want to understand better the relationship between firmware Z=0, physical nozzle position, Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER, and any slicer G-code offsets. Currently I follow your configuration with #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER 0.2 Once I home Z, if I go to Z=0, it's very tight physically, there is high resistance to a 0.05mm feeler gaby whosrdaddy - General
no need to mount it like that, mount it on the carriage, this has the advantage that you don't need to drill the piezo. I have a titan, but the principle stays the same: Thingiverse link for my new corexy I am designing underbed sensors as it will have a fixed bed.by whosrdaddy - General
2 things: - smaller nozzle (0.3mm) and 0.33mm extrusion width (which will give you 3 lines for a 1mm wall) - use a part cooling fanby whosrdaddy - General
QuoteDjDemonD So range (accuracy) is 13 microns, dev 4 microns. Great results from a bracket type system which by its nature is indirect. If you get chance see what effect probing speed has between 240-1000 mm/min Also worth trying the new M558 P8 mode which removes filtering to give an even more precise result. Well this is already tuned at 1000 mm/min in P8 mode I ordered some V2 boards tby whosrdaddy - General
I used the piezo mount from Simon before this but it was not 100% reliable (did get false triggers once in a while). Since I wanted to regain some Z-height, I designed this mount for my P3Steel printer: Basically, I sandwiched the piezo between the x-carriage and the Titan mount. I have repeatable sensitivity around 10 micron which is plenty since my bed is no way flat Some data from my proby whosrdaddy - General