That does not quite look like my prints when my extruder was skipping/not feeding. What is the layer height, looks too tall or something. What material type and brand? 195C looks like PLA, and for example 3DSolutech PLA would hate that temp, I have to run 210. (granted sensors are not all the same) Pic of your extruder setup, are you sure you are getting good tension? Is the stepper motor calby orbitalair - Ormerod
The next fix will be to the extruder. The bearing carrier will break or lose tension over time as it has no upper support. Luckily someone on Thingiverse has already addressed the issue, so I will be testing that. Also wondering if anyone cares about the zaxis switch location providing either a fixed zaxis on the rod, vs the one on the hotend. The hotend mounted switch allows for using meshby orbitalair - Developers
apologies, forgot the omc-,by orbitalair - Reprappers
steppersonline.com they have some of the best pricing for nema17, tho I wish their 34mm units came with connectors AND 1m wire. PLUS they have shipping warehouses worldwide. No matter where I look, even bulk on alibaba it is very very hard to get below $10per stepper motor. CF will work, see youtuber Tech2C corexy build for a discussion on using CF tubes as guide rails. If HP uses 8mm rods,by orbitalair - Reprappers
Assembly page is mostly done. Enjoy. It has a lot of bad potato pics. But should work, I tried to clarify the not-so-clear aspects. SmartRap Mini 2 siteby orbitalair - Developers
Don't be afraid. Its actually pretty tough ! The glass(I use glass as a build plate) can slide around, but I have simple idea to fix that. I am trying to think of a simple, cheap effective way to get a heated bed and removable metal or plastic 'plates' using magnets. This should fix the glass moving slightly. Its open style is appealing to me. It actually sits in a corner of a desk very wellby orbitalair - Developers
countersink ? or longer screws. machine screws and blind nuts. metal corner brackets. a piece of 1/2"(12mm) hardwood to use in the corners. Cut interlaced slots. (you prolly already cut them flat I guess) google this, "bracing a corner joint", to see lots of pics. What do you have that you can use?by orbitalair - Reprappers
Scary, not serious? I suppose. There does not seem to be much interest. Vintage? The original designer started about 2013, the last thingiverse spins were in like 2016. My machine, when running well, makes better parts than the Anet A2 I have. And I use my SR2 2-3times as often as the Anet, which is nearly everyday. But remember in the overall landscape here there are dozens and dozens of dby orbitalair - Developers
Be sure to visit the google site. The assembly instructions are almost complete. Setting stepper voltages and tuning are coming up next. I am thinking screw sets, plastic sets and maybe rod sets are the things builders would want. Do you think this is true? If you have an old SRM, check out the Marlin page, for an updated configuration.h file. Thanks!by orbitalair - Developers
ABS is the same, my mailbox clasp already came apart after about 6 months. UV really degrades plastic. 400yrs poster is a useful idiot.by orbitalair - General
I would appreciate a way to recycle my pla and abs. The current price of $500US for a setup is too expensive for me. Also helps to be small as possible and space saving.by orbitalair - General
you did not say what you have. If its an all in one board, you could replace it, or get a RAMPS 1.4 (or 1.5) setup. Might depend on if you can get a replacement exact board or not. If its already a RAMPS dual board stack, you just need to replace the Mega board (with the processor and usb connector on it). Look for a small rectangle with 3 legs, if it looks burned, you probably overloaded it.by orbitalair - Reprappers
My guess is you have blown the 5v power regulator on the arduino mega. Lots of threads on this topic (you might also search for 'ive put my endstop on backwards and blew up my arduino') The usb is powering up the 5v side, but the ramps/powersupply input side cannot. Check the polarity of your endstop plugs. Replace the power regulator part, or the arduino board.by orbitalair - Reprappers
Well, what do you know? Sometimes its the oddest thing that causes a problem isn't it. Glad you got it fixed !!by orbitalair - Printing
joking, gee you guys are too serious....by orbitalair - Developers
After more thought, letting the anchor block float probably would not fix the issue. Since I think the problem is lateral motion due to the harmonics of the threaded rods. Without a guide rod, the plate will still follow the wobble of the z threaded rods. Say, a simple test would be to let 2 z blocks float, but keep one locked down (acting as a guide). What I would expect to see would be aby orbitalair - Reprappers
My google site has CAD, STLs and Assembly instructions. Assembly is about half done now, I need to get more pictures so I can finish it.by orbitalair - Smart_Rap
Loosen the z thread blocks at the built plate frame. I'd bet you are getting plate wobble from there if they are rigidly attached. Let them float in the horizontal plane and lets see what it does.by orbitalair - Reprappers
Too late, I already patented that idea.by orbitalair - Developers
SolveSpace is what you seek. Eric Buijs on youtube even does all his tutorials on a Mac. free and open source. only current drawback: it wont do threads. if you need that, then I fall back to SCAD or FreeCAD as suggested.by orbitalair - 3D Design tools
I priced some acrylic sheets, its not that cheap. Ply is likely cheaper. Heck, Tom Sanladerer used MDF. All the i3 clones use acrylic. Its rigid, but brittle, take car at sharp angles and holes, it can crack easily. 2020 extrusion is about the same price or so isn't it? I saw like $5 per meter online.by orbitalair - General
Good to know. How hot was your interior temp?by orbitalair - General
My two cents. E3Dv6 or clone, all metal? Reduce the retraction to 1.5-2mm NOT 5mm. E3dv6 clone I have is terrible at the repriming, and I have a pretty short bowden setup. At 4mm mine would jam up halfway thru a complex part and then I get a 10% filled part. Get a simple retraction test from thingiverse and run it. 200C seems too cool to me, try 210 then 220 to see. I run PLA at 215, but tby orbitalair - Printing
QuoteLudvig I printed the "Benchy" boat, went okay but the bottom squashes out the "CT3D.xyz" text, tried a tenth of a millimetre higher Z level -> printed in air. Tried a slightly lower extrusion (1.03 -> 0.98) and the print is slightly better (maybe) but the first layer is clearly better. Tried a flat swuade, really better too! I'll continue trying and tweaking! When there is more or leby orbitalair - Printing
I havent built one, but a CoreXY machine like Tech2C on youtube made. He also did several comparisons of print quality of steel, aluminum rod and carbon fiber rod on the X carriage.(reducing weight). I also like that it is quite scalable, and can be enclosed pretty easily. I made a SmartRap mini, but thats definitely NOT set and forget....by orbitalair - Reprappers
Hi all, I picked up the Smartrap mini about a year ago and tried to build one. Well 10 months, and a lot of CAD and build time later, I have revised and updated the parts for this little printer. I really like this design, even with its flaws. It is low cost, simple to make, and takes a minimalist approach. People like it years ago, and there were actually too many forks I think, people gotby orbitalair - Developers
Webpage up in google space. See CADFiles page. I have also put a page up on ThingiVerse, I can make plastic sets for a small fee. PM or email me.by orbitalair - Smart_Rap
Ah these guys. This is what happens when you try to control the whole software ecosystem. Proprietary slicers have been rejected by consumers, as well as appears the proprietary cloud for objects. The machine did get a lot of kudos for the platform and drive system LoboCNC, so kudos to you. These days I am thinking expertise is what people will pay for, maybe. Or simply REALLY expensive stuff.by orbitalair - General