If its only in the Xaxis its the belt. Do you have a toothed or flat return roller? Add a tensioner/dampener at the return roller end. I'd do a test cube print, to see if its just at the corners or along a whole edge. if whole edge its the belt. My anet A2 has this problem, it has smooth return rollers. I can minimize it with tension, but it still visible in the reflections. You could some spby orbitalair - General
Another excellent video series is by Tech2C on youtube, building a CoreXY machine. He researches and compares results of steel, aluminum and carbon fiber as guide rods. Amazing work.by orbitalair - General
If one of your learning goals is supply chain, you will get an eye opener. I also would suggest a prusa type, and Tom Sanladers videos will be a good start, there are several others out there too RCJOSEB shows several machine builds in excrutiating detail. Tuning and troubleshooting will be your main headaches with a scratch build. Smartrap on thingiverse, more an ecosystem than one machine, sby orbitalair - General
Yes I would consider that too hot. 50C is pretty warm, but wont burn you, iirc many motors are rated to 80C, depends on the manufacturer. Do you have a heated bed? set it to 40 or 50C and compare. Subjective of course, but close.by orbitalair - General
Nice! Thanks for sharing. I got spectra line to work, and it works fine, but it frays. I need a line that does not fray. But I have updated the parts to be able to print a GT2 kit as an addon. When running at perfection this printer makes better parts than my Anet A2 does. But yes, it does take a lot of attention, its not a setup and forget system.by orbitalair - Smart_Rap
What other features do you need? heated bed, lcd, what hotend do you want, etc. What precision do you want? What are you trying to demonstrate? Building a RepRap from scratch will not be cheaper than buying a RepRap cloner kit from china, it is VERY hard to be cheaper than a TronXY X1, or Prusa clone. Buying one off parts from ebay is more $ than the chinamakers buying in bulk prices. Or whaby orbitalair - General
Anywhere from 0.5 to 2 amps. Since it was running at 1.5 its likely a higher rated one. Current rating is related to price, cheaper is usually less current capable. You could email them, or look up the number of the motor. I am sure Prusa will tell you if they know(they should). The idea is to tune them to the lowest current that does not cause skipped steps (to run cooler), but they can run saby orbitalair - General
Hi all, I have revised the SmartRap Mini for more modern (and even cheaper) components, E3Dv6 hotend, 34mm steppers, endstops with leds. Most importantly I have a clear set of plastic parts, all but a few redrawn in real CAD (not simply mashed and remashed STLs). And a clear set of hardware. My website: more info, part lists, etc. Thingiverse: I will have plastic parts kits for sale soon.by orbitalair - Smart_Rap
Assuming you trust the settings, jot down the accel and jerk values for x,y,z as well. 1.1.0rc8 did not have an inherent heating bed bug that I know of, mine works fine. You likely have another problem there. If you go to 1.1.8 you will need to edit the config by hand to make all the settings. If you enable eeprom, be sure you understand how to set and clear the settings, errant eeprom valueby orbitalair - General
That looks pretty neat in the assembly manual. But how long does it take to print all the parts on a 200x200x200 machine at 50-60mm/s ? Wasnt there a calibration check print too in (v1 or 2)? So one would be sure that the parts would actually snap together. So far I never been able to get parts I printed to fit together well, not your parts, parts I made or downloaded. I like it tho. Great wby orbitalair - Developers
Hi, 2 Problems; 1) about line 790 should read; #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE NOT #define X_MAX_POS X_BED_SIZE 200 #define Y_MAX_POS Y_BED_SIZE 200 Change the size at lines 783/784 2) Uncomment the bed leveling '#if' test at line 885, and the matching '#endif' at 908 Commenting these out turns on the various params contained therein. If I made a mistake you shoulby orbitalair - General
Ok, thats a interesting clue. Just a heads up, I will not be able to look at this tonite, tomorrow at the earliest.by orbitalair - General
Spectra braided fishing line. But that comes with its own set of problems. Mine is fairly short run, linear, about 12 inches, with 4 winds straight onto the stepper motor shaft. This works great. The problem is the wear, when it starts to fray, it will get stuck and skip a step or 4. I tried a printed spool, but could never get a spool to come out in a way I liked. I may try some other sby orbitalair - General New Machines Topics
Wow, nice machine ! I see what you mean when you say you tried expensive stuff before the PTFE. I am going to order some length and give it a try. But my machine is a cheap reincarnation of the SmartRap mini, and metal bearings work but require a lot of prep, cleaning, oiling, testing. The PTFE would same me time and money.by orbitalair - Developers
I am sorry, in that Configuration.h I don't see where any auto bed leveling is activated. Are you sure you are in the correct project? This config is for Marlin 1.1.7, you have all that source code right? It should compile straight out of the zip package, have you done that? Can you screenshot the compile error? The only thing I can see is this, are you sure its supposed to be MOTHERBOARD_Mby orbitalair - General
You need to edit the Configuration.h file in the Marlin source code. You need data to put in there, since you said it was a DIY Prusa i3, this data should be out there, probably under DIY Prusa i3. You need the Arduino compiler/IDE, then open marlin in there, set your COM port to the usb connector to the board. I would simply build the default Marlin code and try to upload it. Just start theby orbitalair - General
I don't know maybe its the minimalist approach? The look of polished stainless steel rods? Wheeled bearings themselves are easier, but requires extruded aluminum box tube, or similar to ride on. Or big bulky rod riders using 4 bearings each. I see my SmartRap Mini build as art in itself, it would look terrible if it looked like a TronXY X1 (which is the same design using Aluminum X bars).by orbitalair - General
Hi, Thanks for the tip !! I'll see if I can try it myself. I started with printed pla bushings, the trick here is to get the start 'sticktion' as low as possible, furniture polish helps. In my design its not heavily loaded (e3dv6 is light). I now know why people dont like the linear roller bearings, they stick at the worst possible moment.by orbitalair - General
Yes, I have 2 now. Pretty cheap to make, not as cheap as a tronxy x1, but now at about the $150-$200 range in raw parts prices. Prints nice when it prints, lots of hiccups. New marlin configs, new mounts for endstop switches on pcbs we have now, spectra fishing line, new mounts for e3dv6 hotend. I use short 34mm steppers to get the most out of Z height. I made mine sized to print on 8"x10" gby orbitalair - Smart_Rap