Quoteo_lampe Are you mixing up TMC2100 and TMC2130 infos? AFAIK the 2130 is configured by SPI and the 2100 relies on cfg pin config. I'm fairly sure the TMC 2130 is able to be set this way. The datasheet and schematic seem to point towards this being possible. The v1.0 Fysetc driver has the SPI 'bridge' closed with a blob of solder which according to the docs would appear to suggest it's alreadby JoeK1973 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi all, Just a simple question really. I've built my 3D printer with A4988 drivers on a RAMPS 1.4 board but would like to make my X and Y axes a little quieter, so I spotted some v1.0 Fysetc TMC 2130 drivers on a well known auction site and bought them. I've read and re-read Instructables, tutorials and datasheets and am struggling to comprehend what it is I need to do to get these working in Sby JoeK1973 - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
QuoteWrestler99 Sorry for the delay, but here is my configuration.h My Z feedrate is at 2 right now also I can move the Z_axis easy by turning the Z_axis couplers How are you moving the Z axis? Is it with 5mm threaded rod, or T8 leadscrew or M8 threaded rod? On my printer I tried to use T8 leadscrew and got a lot of issues with friction between the nut and the leadscrew, I gave up and used 8mby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteorbitalair Your nozzle is too high. Recalibrate the nozzle Z=0 to be 1 sheet of paper thickness with some drag off the plate. I seriously doubt you get good objects with a 0.4mm nozzle at 0.4mm layer height, the layers are barely sticking to each other. Thanks, I've recalibrated Z. Now got a Z offset of -0.1. Still haven't had the time to try the suggestions posted earlier. My definitioby JoeK1973 - Printing
QuoteDust m8 is 1.25mm per rotation presuming that you have 1/16th microstepping and a 200 step stepper. then you have 2560 steps/mm so 0.2mm is 32 steps and is accurate. So the mechanics are fine. My Z Steps (DEFAULT_STEPS_PER_MM?) is 2483 or very close to that number IIRC, E Steps is 143. I've been a bit fixated on getting a first layer at 0.2mm, I don't suppose there's anything stoppingby JoeK1973 - Printing
QuoteRossos My printer can't make 0.3mm, it's either 0.28mm or 0.32mm. Maybe your issue lies within the lead screws. Make sure they can accommodate your desires. Prusa Calculator: Lead Screws: Optimal Layer Height: Thanks for the links although I should say I cheated a little and have used 8mm threaded rods for the Z axis from an i3 rework kit. This printer is a bit of a mongrel!by JoeK1973 - Printing
Quotejaded Make sure your nozzle gap is correct (bed leveling). Try first layer height at 0.3mm. If you are using slic3r set the first layer extrusion width to 200%. Set infill before perimeters. Perimeters to 3. Try slowing down your first layer speeds. Check your temperatures (bed and hotend). Make sure your extrusion rate multiplier in your slicer (I use slic3r) is correct to your hardwby JoeK1973 - Printing
Hi all, I’ve recently built my first printer, a Prusa i3 clone with Mk2 extruder and E3D clone hotend (0.4mm nozzle) With 0.4mm layer height and first layer extrusion width of 150%, I get a reliable good first layer and good prints, although the finish isn’t brilliant (not a surprise at 0.4mm). However, when I use the same settings at 0.2mm layer height, I get a really bad first layer, bad enoby JoeK1973 - Printing
QuoteDjDemonD We haven't yet come up with a definitive solution for an original i3 mk2/3 machine mainly due to not having one to play with, but a mk1/1.5 rework type I3 can easily use the Piezo20 or the new Orion sensor, just insert it into the groovemount and insert the hotend into the sensor. Sorry, how do you mean groove mount? The i3 rework (by emotiontech?} has a direct drive extruder (I thby JoeK1973 - General
Might have missed the answer whilst browsing the 20 pages of this thread but what is the recommended solution for a prusa i3? Building my own clone at the minute and this solution appeals to me. Just out of interest, would I be correct in thinking I should use a clipper circuit with piezo transducers? To limit the input voltage. Thinking about doing a little arduino sketch to experiment a littlby JoeK1973 - General
Quoteo_lampe I wonder how a direct drive extruder with E3D hotend looks like? The usual direct drive extruder for Prusa style printers is the MK8 all metal hotend, which doesn't require a long heatsink. I apologise if I have used the wrong terminology - for clarity I have attached a diagram from the instruction manual. The filament is held between a bearing and the hobbed drive gear, with a spriby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, First post, looking forward to joining in the community. I've been building my Prusa i3 clone for nearly 2 years. It's a hybrid of S.Graber wood frame and i3 Rework 1.5 printed parts. Electronics have been from suggestions from Tom Sanladerer in his 'Dolly' build. The problem The issue I've ran into is that the E3D v6 clone hotend is longer than the 12mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BX inductive sensorby JoeK1973 - Prusa i3 and variants