Hi there, Have you ever decreased the Max Acceleration in the Marlin Firmware? If you are ok with Firmware changes then try reduce the Default Max Acceleration in the Configuration.h tab in Marlin. I've set mine quite low, and it cleared up skipping problems I was having a long time ago. #define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {2500,2500,100,10000} Also, 60mm/s is quite high of you are still workiby NumberSix - General Mendel Topics
Hi Pete, Can you clarify whether you simply want to scale a large object (.stl) down to fit on your print bed, or whether you want to retain the original scale and split the object up into parts that will fit on your print bed? The software "tmorris9" mentions above will allow you to scale down a single .stl so it will fit on your print bed, as he suggest. Tks, NumberSixby NumberSix - General
Hi Pete, Are the items you want to print (that are too big for your print bed) currently in .stl format only? I use Sketchup (free version), it can import .stl, but depending on what you import you may have some clean-up to do before you can start separating parts into printable sized sections. (you'll also need a plug-in for importing/exporting .stl files: https://github.com/SketchUp/sketchup-sby NumberSix - General
All, Whether you're a beginner or experienced RepRapper I think this recent publication by the International Centre for Theoretical Physics (ICTP), Trieste, Italy, will make interesting reading for all. (hope this isn't a re-post on the forum). They have published an open book which complements their 1st International Conference on "Low-cost 3D Printing for Science, Education and Sustainable Devby NumberSix - General
Hi there, RichRap had an excellent recent post on the topic of printing with Nylon 618 filament. In that post he refers to Tufnol as being a good bed matial for Nylon printing. http://richrap.blogspot.ie/2013/04/3d-printing-with-nylon-618-filament-in.html Quote from Rich's blog... "And one final note, if you plan to use Nylon for printing, MakeAlot directed me that the best surface material to pby NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi Marius, You could start by reading through this section of the main RepRap site: http://www.reprap.org/wiki/Build_A_RepRap Detail on the Mendel90 is also worth read (it's not listed in the other group of printers) http://hydraraptor.blogspot.ie/2012_12_01_archive.html From there you could decide whether you might want to scratch build, or perhaps build from a kit. Feel free to post more questby NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Chris (Nophead), --- >...I have to condition the glass somehow and then it works with just acetone with maybe a trace of ABS on the cloth I use. --- I'd agree that the slightest hint of ABS in the acetone when applied to a glass pre-coated surface works well. Often gaps appear in the coating when prints have been removed and a quick wipe smooths the gaps over, rejuvenating the entire surface.by NumberSix - General
I print ABS to glass, with a dilute coating of ABS Juice (ABS/acetone). The coating does tend to deteriorate after a few prints, so I give it a quick wipe with some kitchen tissue with a splash of abs juice on it. I have a hood over the printer and I allow the temperature to rise in the hood before I start. It's about 28Deg C. in the hood. I use plain picture glass, placed directly on the heatby NumberSix - General
Hi Wired1, Thanks for the info. I expect getting the Cover Shield with the extras would 'future protect' it a little in this fast changing RepRap world! :-) Thanks again.by NumberSix - For Sale
Hi there, There's a good visual guide for construction purposes here: http://garyhodgson.com/reprap/prusa-mendel-visual-instructions/. It's not a "good read" as such, but depending how you learn about mechanical devices, it may be of value to see how they are constructed. There's also a great beginners overview of the Prusa Mendel here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3D56IpACME, even if it's aby NumberSix - General
Hi guys, Of any of you that have purchased the Axteeg X3, might you be able to give a real world example of benefit of the "Cover Shield with 2 thermocouple inputs" as against the straight "Cover Shield"? What might you use the thermocouple inputs to control? Secondly, if any of you have purchased the heated bed, do you know if the thermistor comes with the bed kit or if it needs to be purchasedby NumberSix - For Sale
Hi Roy, Any idea when you will have more of the X3 Controller in stock? Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - For Sale
Hi there! Is the Gen6 still for sale?by NumberSix - For Sale
Might anyone have an old Gen6 board (in working order), perhaps left over from an upgrade, that you would sell? I've killed my own board, and it's not worth putting a brand new Gen6 into the current rig, but an old one would bring it back to live. I'm going to move to a different controller and build an new machine, but for now a straight swap-out with a second-hand Gen6 would bring things backby NumberSix - Wanted
Hi there, If you try to manually feed filament after a startup from cold, where the insulator (PEEK) hasn't heated, but the hot-end is up to temperature (230deg or so) does the filament push through relatively easily then? If it doesn't feed manually, when the PEEK is still relatively cool then there are a few things to check. Have you measured the filament diameter with a digital vernier, checkiby NumberSix - Reprappers
Guys, Why the very small time window for the competition? Friday 29th March to Monday 1st Apr? Did you get many entries? Only seeing it now. I'm well behind on my forum reading! :-)by NumberSix - Competitions
Hi Werner, Wow! That's a superb surface finish and dimensional accuracy! Very impressive!by NumberSix - General
It is neat! Quite an incredible pledge rate also! There seems to be a huge appetite for simple and reliable filament extruder. Producing your own filament from granules at a fraction of the price is certainly attractive. This particular one has taken a good project approach by recruiting beta-testers and showing significant volume of apparently consistently extruded plastic, along with some exampby NumberSix - General
Hi Werner, Have you considered starting your own blog? The uploading mechanism here for photos and videos is a bit tedious, and you may have many ideas and episodes that would deserve their own breathing space. www.blogspot.com is a popular blog platform, and I'm sure there may be other suggestions. You can still post here but point to the blog for more detail. Just a suggestion. NumberSixby NumberSix - General
Hi Werner, Well done! That's a neat and tremendously precise machine you've constructed. Your creativity and innovation with the use of super-magnet spheres for joints is outstanding! I think we can expect to see some adoption of that joint type moving forward. Your energy and excitement for 3d printing is palpable in your posts! I love the way in your other post (Mr Yoda) that you couldn't waitby NumberSix - General
Just sharing something I just saw on TV... TV Gadget Show (Channel 5 UK) featured a review of three 3d printers. The 3d System Cube, the Makerbot Replicactor 2, and the Ultimaker 3d printer. They gave a brief non-technical review and picked the one they thought gave the best print quality. They picked the Ultimaker! It's a pitty a RepRap didn't get a mention on the show, but I expect they wereby NumberSix - General
That's a time saving tracing feature in Inkscape. I must give that a go. Nice practical tutorial. I enjoyed it. It was useful.by NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi there, If you put some scrap wood between the vice jaws and the bearings that hold the bolt, you can push the point of the tap into the wood as you begin to cut into the bolt at first. This helps the tap stay in the one spot on the bolt and start its cut. Apply firm pressure on the tab, but not too much because with the point of the tab now constrained you could snap the tab. Once it begins toby NumberSix - Reprappers
A certain amount of drift towards the washers isn't an issue, provided the belt isn't gripping or dragging against the washer in a way that might cause the motor to skip. You'll have to judge that your self. In the other post I liked to above I posted photos of my current arrangement, where I fitted double bearings, and removed the fender washers completely. The motor bracket can sometimes haveby NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi there, Do you have large washers (fender washers) on the outside of you idler bearings? Is your problem that the belt is drifting too much and rubbing against your washers, or is it just running off the bearing because there's no washers? I would advise against the printed Idler unless you have extremely good print quality, as a printed idler will just introduce print quality issues. There isby NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi Zveck, I'd recommend you replace the printed idlers. I switched to double-bearings as idlers a long time back. No need for fender washers with this arrangement either. I've also reversed the belt over the far side idler (also a double-bearing arrangement) so the smooth side of the belt passes over the idler. I'm not sure how much of a difference reversing the belt actually makes, but it doesn'by NumberSix - Reprappers