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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: Quietest reprap? + Ideas on how to make any reprap quieter? - 11 years ago
Hi there, How quiet do you want it? The noisiest part of my printer is the fan on the extruder. The general whizzing noise the bearings make don't bother me and aren't really that loud. When setting up I turned the motor pots up until the motors squealed then back them off until they went silent (Gen6 electronics). They don't make any great noise now, just a slight background hum perhaps. What Iby NumberSix - General
Re: What's up with the different kinds of bar clamps? - 11 years ago
If the y-rods are resting on the horizontal threaded rods then you have a good level starting point for your bed to rest on. It's better than having them raised off at four points and the height dependent on print quality of the clamps. (It's a minor point really though in the scale of what impacts print quality). You need the rods to be nice and level and lots of things factors in. The way thiby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: What's up with the different kinds of bar clamps? - 11 years ago
Hi Brad, The best of the bar clamps out there, in my view, is this one: by Tirffid_hunter. There are improvements over the Prusa one, and the original full u-shaped one. The key fine-tuning is hole positions which allow the two rods being clamped to sit together. This is very good if you want your y-smooth rods to sit on the horizontal threaded rods. The older 'original' design, or even the Prusby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Alternatives to acetone - 11 years ago
Hi Mario, It's a good tip, and does avoid the use of acetone. I think it's the added vinegar that makes the difference. It cuts through any grease and clean the glass very well. Worth trying out. NumberSixby NumberSix - Printing
Re: Peek, Brass Cylinder Madness - 11 years ago
Hi there, Could you post a picture or two of your latest construction? I'm trying to visualise what you have at this stage from your description and a picture would help. What size filament are you designing for 1.75mm or 3mm? Is your filament diameter reasonably consistent? How far does the brass now run into the PEEK insulator? When a hotend is working well you can push plastic through it by hby NumberSix - General
Re: acetone - 11 years ago
"Sally Salon Services", Thomas St. Limerick, has pure acetone, in small and medium sized bottles. It's way better than nail polish remover (for making ABS juice, and cleaning print bed).by NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Re: i3 Video Build Log - 11 years ago
Hi there, Nice going! Keep the videos coming. I really like that headed bed you plan to use. Haven't seen them on sales in Europe yet. Are they in common use on printers in the US? (Here's the reference for those who haven't watched the video: ) I like the casual video diary style, but I couldn't work on the carpet as you do! Just wait until you loose some small screw or washer down there on tby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Need an x-carriage printed - 11 years ago
Hi SNP, I can do you one of those, in ABS. What country are you in? Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Re: Need to buy LM8UU X -axis Parts UK - 12 years ago
Ah... you are looking for the x-idler end and x-motor end. That's what they are generally called. You should probably find an example of what you are looking for on Thingiverse and post that link. There are many different options around. Sorry, my old x-ends are in poor nick so wouldn't offer you those.by NumberSix - General
Re: Need to buy LM8UU X -axis Parts UK - 12 years ago
Hi Simon, I've an x-carriage you can have for nothing (I'm not using it), just for the post cost. I'm forever upgrading my set-up so I've an older one I'm not using. I dogged the trapped nut holes a bit where the fan is mounted, but other than that it's perfect. It's this one: Just drop me a PM if you want it. I can pop it in the post to you. Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - General
Re: Heated bed - need to be turned on for entire print? - 12 years ago
(Printing PLA) I leave the bed on for the full duration. I've a manually controlled heated bed. I have tried turning it down, and even off at various stages of printing so it would take lest time to get to 'cold' when the job finished, but it's not worth it as the job invariably separated from the printbed before the printing finished. i leave it on (60Deg C aprox) for the duration of the print.by NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: RepRap parts in Ireland? - 12 years ago
Hi Keith, If you want to get up and running quickly then buying a full kit from a single source is a good idea. Reprappro.com supply a good product and have a very experienced team to help you if you need it along the way. I've not built that specific reprap, but I'm sure if you contact them they could point you to some of their users for a recommendation. I can print sets of parts but if you'reby NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Re: which grease for Z and extruder? - 12 years ago
I use 3-in-1 oil on metal parts anyway. I don't think PLA gears need anything but I have some PTFE spray I've used occasionally on them, applying it using a Q-tip. I found this neat little oil applicator in Halfords (UK and Ireland). I refill it from the 3-in-1 can.by NumberSix - General
Re: anti backlash nuts - 12 years ago
Hi Dave, I'm running a Prusa Mendel style printer. From an axis perspective it's very similar to the MendelMax. I didn't ever fit the second nut or spring on the z-axis. Backlash has never been a concern for me and my print quality is very satisfactory. I sometimes enable the lift feature, and see not adverse effects. The total weight of the x-axis assembly is quite significant and serves to keepby NumberSix - General
Re: Pushing the filament manually when printing new object? - 12 years ago
In Slic3r 0.9.1 it's under "Skirt and brim". You'll get one 'ring around the print' if Skirt Loops is set to 1. You can also set the distance that loop is from the object there. In general I move the print head to home which positions it a fraction above the print bed. When it heats it doesn't ooze any plastic then. It's so close to the bed it stops it oozing out. I usually start with a single sby NumberSix - General
Re: 3d Printed Musical Instruments - 12 years ago
> > [3dprintedinstruments.wikidot.com] > Just had a look at your website. That is a superb gathering and presentation of information of 3d printing methods, materials and musical instruments! Best of luck with the project!by NumberSix - General
Re: Endstops, what side to mount them? - 12 years ago
Phizinza Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > NumberSix Wrote: > > What you print depends on what your endstop > looks > > like. Is there a picture of your endstop out > there > > somewhere? > > > Those are the endstops I am using. > > So if I understand correctly because the Y axis > moves the bed the endstop has to goby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Endstops, what side to mount them? - 12 years ago
I was a bit confused about where to place the endstops when first building also. I posted the question and got good replies. You might like to review that post. It's located here: In relation to mounting the endstops, you may have to get creative if the brackets you have don't fit or mount on the threaded rod, until you have your printer running, then you can print mounting brackets that fit yoby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: An all metal hot-end design (Lots of Pics) - 12 years ago
That's shaped up nicely guys. Thanks for sharing your design evolution in such an open fashion. It's come together well now. It's great to see a 'simple' non-PEEK non-PTFE design out there. If you don't mind sharing one last piece of information, how much care a are you taking when drilling out the stainless piece? Is it first drilled and then reamed to the required diam? Are you polishing the iby NumberSix - General
Re: Motor Pulleys - 12 years ago
On your question of filing a flat on the shaft, Adrian has a pict and description on the process here on the Reprap Wiki. It's about half way down the page on the wiki. Note: it's important you protect the bearing on the motor from stray filings, whether you use a dremel or a hand file. Place some bluetack or plasticine around the shaft near the motor while filing the flat. You don't have to havby NumberSix - General
Re: Printing X Carriage in PLA - 12 years ago
The x-carriage will be fine in PLA. Even the extruder is ok in PLA once you have some cooling air flow across the underside. ABS is recommended for the extruder as it takes more heat. I'm using a j-head on a PLA extruder and x-carriage. I run the fan blowing air across the neck of the j-head and the underside of the x-carriage all the time though. That keeps everything cool. I'm planning to tryby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Turning Off Z Axis While Not In Use - 12 years ago
Z motor power on all the time. I've never had a problem with z motors, either heating or skipping. Are you having problems with your z axis/motors?by NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Soldering wires on hot-end? - 12 years ago
Another suggestion for you... if you have some pop-rivets you can use them as joiners. Find some of the desired diameter, snip the head off, tap the pin out and you'll be left with a little aluminium tube that you can use to crimp the wire on to the resistor wire. There are some photos of my use of a pop-rivets as wire joiners in my hot-end post.by NumberSix - General
Re: Prusa i3 Where Are You? 
- 12 years ago
Hi Traumflug, Can you clarify what you view as the design weakness? I'm interested to understand your statement more clearly. I can see how the Printrbot design could be said to have a weak Y, with it's unsupported Y-rod, but the i3 Y-rod has the benefit of the vertical plate to support it, which in turn is held vertically by the z-motor mounts and motors and the horizontal threaded rods bolted tby NumberSix - General
Re: glass heat bed - 12 years ago
Some more FYI - I'm currently using a cheap light mirror (maybe 1mm thick) which I cut to 200x200mm, on an aluminium bed heated by resistors. My bed bolts are countersunk to give a flat top surface. Bulldog clips hold the mirror. I've no concerns about the clips and slippage. The mirror has little mass and there is no drag from the print head on it. I'm only printing PLA at present so the mirrorby NumberSix - General
Re: Springs - 12 years ago
eckertech Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's actually the seal from a metal roofing screw. > > > > name=rubber_washer.jpg Thanks for clarifying guys! Setting a new trend there.by NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Springs - 12 years ago
I don't think there's a need to go making your own springs. There's a great spring available in cheap clothes pegs, fits an M4 bolt nicely, and has good strength. You can get a pack in a €2 shop, for... €2! You can see these springs on my blog here: I use them in my extruder, and combine two of them on each M4 bold under my print bed. If you want to try something you could use rubber washeby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Prusa to Gen 6 - 12 years ago
Hi Dinesh, You're very welcome. This post of mine from way back may be of specific interest to you, if you haven't read all the way back to it. It relates to a minor detail of connecting up the Gen6. If you get to doing a blog or even posting some photos or video of your progress I'd be delighted to see how you are getting on. If you run into any difficulty don't hesitate to post some questionsby NumberSix - General
Re: An all metal hot-end design (Lots of Pics) - 12 years ago
Hi Sanjay, Thanks for posting some video. It's great to see the Mendel90 in action, especially at high speed. It looks rock solid. (I think blue tape and heated glass is usually an either/or. i.e. Blue-tape cold, glass heated. Others may comment on this. I see you've moved away from the 'hovercraft' hotend already! It's a quickly evolving design. Keep at it! NumberSix SanjayM Wrote: ---------by NumberSix - General