All the answers are printed on the board. A = power in, get your +/- correct. B, C, D = X, Y, Z motors. E = Extruder motor F = Hotend heat and thermistor (more detail on those pins printed on the board to the top of your picture. G, H, I = Opto X, Y & Z, J, K & M not used. Tiny pot adjusters for the steppers are to the right of the heatsinks in your picture.by NumberSix - General
Ok... I'll put my hand up on that fan reversing suggestion! I don't know how you could reverse the modern fan. I didn't test that one!by NumberSix - General
Hi Sanjay, Thanks for all the additional info. I took another look at your pictures and indeed it's a resistor heater, not a cartridge. I mistakenly saw the hole for the resistor as the protruding end of a cartridge. It was an illusion. It's great that you are spelling out your thinking behind your design, and willing to take observations and feedback on board. From my own experimentation in staby NumberSix - General
Hi guys, Interesting design. Some questions: Did you test it with just one fan and then decide it would need two fans or just presume it would need two fans? What diameter hold have you in the stainless insulator? (probably 2mm) Did you find this a challenge to drill straight through that length of stainless? How did you do the drilling? Looks like you are using a probe heater. What wattage is thby NumberSix - General
That's very interesting. You have done quite a bit of experimenting with pva coatings and cold bed printing. Can I just ask you to clarify some detail in your third paragraph above? You say a pure PVA coating is thick and hard to remove prints from, but then you say it's easy to remove prints from the thicker end of 1:2 coating. This seems a contradiction, but I'm sure you can clarify. When yoby NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi Enlightx, I have some. I'm next door, (Ireland) so it shouldn't take too long to get to you! :-) What length are you looking for? I can check the cost of posting to UK, shouldn't be that much. Drop me a PM if you want to firm up on an arrangement. Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - General
Hi Takigama, That's very interesting. I'll have to try that out, the trick appearing to be a more concentrated solution of PVA when printing to a cold bed. My coating on the heated bed was about 1:8, and believe it or not I found that almost too strong a grip, and a challenge to remove once it had cooled. I've recently posted some detail and a short video on my blog: My suggestion when printinby NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi there, Just clarifying... are you printing to an unheated bed? What's the general room temperature? Are you in a warm climate? I've been using a PVA coating for the past few weeks and it works very well, but I use a heated bed. The PLA doesn't well at all when the bed is cold. Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - Reprappers
Hi there, If you are looking for something nearer the original Wade design (as against Greg's Accessible take on it) then Nophead has a version that has a 16mm hole. It's on his Mendel 90 Thingiverse page; It has the 50mm distance between it's mounting holes, same as Gregs, so will mount to many of the x-carriages out there. Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - General
It does look very well in white. The Mendel 90 is climbing high on my 'next printer' list! I like the sound of that PVC sheet. If you are getting it CNC cut then you could get a simple handle cut into the top cross piece. Not sure it's a portable size, but it would make it easier to lug around if you needed to. I'm also delighted to hear NopHead is continuing to evolve the design of the parts.by NumberSix - General
Hi AirGraphix, Thanks for the enquiry. PM sent. Regards, NumberSixby NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Congratulations Greg! You'll have to print a quad-copter next! Andrew, tks for the additional info. The participation was low, but there was a significant number of thingiverse downloads of the STL. It maybe just holiday season, or the perceived difficulty of the challenge. Some prize sponsorship by some of the vendors might bring more people in also. The vendor would get advertising out of iby NumberSix - Competitions
Hi Andrew, That came out nice and clean. How easily did it separate from the supports? What did you use to slice it and what were your main settings? What material was it printed in? On a side note, have you coated your glass top to aid adhesion? It looks like something was brushed on to the glass and dried off. Hows that working out and what did you use? Ivorby NumberSix - Competitions
Hi all, This is a long standing thread, lost in the Irish corner of the forum. If you've read this far then you may be located in Ireland and interested in finding someone locally that can print parts. I've been steadily building my RepRap experience over the past while and am now at a point where I can offer good quality sets of parts, with the added advantage of reduced shipping costs to anyoneby NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
I gave it a go using "Support" set to rough in KISSlicer, just to see how it might come out. I've never printed anything with supports before and it was an interesting experiment, even if the result was a bit patchy. I'm happy to share the experiment even thought it's not really a competitive contender. It does show it can be printed with supports and could be improved on with some tuning of theby NumberSix - Competitions
richrap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > NumberSix Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > - > > Hi Rich, > > Fabulous work! > > Just a quick question... is the Slic3r > > nozzle_diameter of 0.42 the 'actual' hole size > or > > a fudged figure? I'm curious to know how you > > arrived at 0.42. It'by NumberSix - Competitions
Hi there! In my experience of extrudes, you do need active cooling on the insulator (including the J-head) to remove the risk of jamming. I don't think this is emphasised enough to people. It doesn't have to be a strong fan, just a gentle breeze across it will prevent heat creep upwards. The fan may cool the heater block as you suspect, and you do have to take some action to prevent this. You canby NumberSix - Printing
richrap Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > settings in Slic3r 0.8.3 - > > ; layer_height = 0.3 > ; perimeters = 1 > ; solid_layers = 3 > ; fill_density = 0.65 > ; nozzle_diameter = 0.42 > ; filament_diameter = 2.86 > ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 > ; perimeter_speed = 40 > ; infill_speed = 40 > ; travel_speed = 230 > ; scale = 1by NumberSix - Competitions
Epic fail! Here's the result anyway! KISSlicer seemed to be doing better all the way to the top. I left it unattended and when I returned the nozzle had stuck and ripped it clean off it's base! oh well... at least I learned quit a bit about KISSlicer in the process. Enough for now. NumberSixby NumberSix - Competitions
Here's my 'ugly baby' entry! It was sliced in Slic3r 0.8.2 and printed on a Prusa Mendel. 1.75ish PLA. ; layer_height = 0.20 ; perimeters = 2 ; solid_layers = 2 ; fill_density = 0 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.35 ; filament_diameter = 1.73 ; extrusion_multiplier = .85 ; perimeter_speed = 30 ; infill_speed = 30 ; travel_speed = 100 First few layers at 190 dropping to 182. I struggled to cool it as it pby NumberSix - Competitions
Thanks Billy, That's great. You're using a gentle print rate, and there's no sign of any curling or pushing of plastic, which I'm running into. You must have some cooling going on of the layers just printed also. Once I climb out of the base into the tendrils, they remain a bit 'jelly like' and get moved about a bit by the nozzle printing the next layer. I think I need to insulate my hot-end a bby NumberSix - Competitions
It would be greatly appreciated if someone could share a quick video of the lower layers of this object being printed, showing the looping that forms the tendrils. It would give a better indication of how the extruder nozzle should be performing when printing this delicate piece. If you could pan to where your fan/cooling is positioned it would be an added bonus. I have managed to print this objeby NumberSix - Competitions
Leeway Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I agree the challenge on this one is more than > just the print. It really maxes out the software. > I tried Kisslicer for the first time as well. That > will take several calibration cubes to get right > before I jump into something like this with it. > I did get the start of a decent print with it > thby NumberSix - Competitions
Well done Billy! I think you’ve sent the community on a trawl to see what interesting machine produced such a neat looking print. I’ve certainly taken a moment to step back and review your work. You have caused me to question some of the sudo-fundamentals I’ve followed, such as “threaded z-axis is better” (you have belt driven Z) or “Nema17s are best” (you appear to have Nema14s all round). Yourby NumberSix - Competitions
I like it! "The Brim" is a good name for it!by NumberSix - General
Well done Rich!by NumberSix - Competitions
Hi all, I logged my entry on the Thingiverse page earlier. I've posted full detail on my blog page: Here's a pict of my entry; and the technical detail... ; generated by Slic3r 0.7.1 on 2012-05-29 at 22:59:22 ; layer_height = 0.25 ; perimeters = 2 ; solid_layers = 2 ; fill_density = .15 ; nozzle_diameter = 0.35 ; filament_diameter = 1.74 ; extrusion_multiplier = 1 ; perimeter_speed = 15 ; infby NumberSix - Competitions
Hi David, Sort out any wobble in the hot end. Even if you are filling in at 0 and 90deg the filament should lay down perfectly straight. Temperature considerations... If you bring it up to 195Deg C, even if you aren't 100% sure it is at that temperature, when you print a small object at 20mm/s and first layer set to 30% of that speed (as you've said above), the heat from the heater block is justby NumberSix - Reprappers
Nice one David, Best of luck with the demo!by NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Hi Brad, Great work. I like the compact design. It may well serve the needs of many better than a larger print area. I agree that sometimes it might be better to print many objects consecutively and only suffer one failure, than attempt to print a tray of objects on a larger printer and suffer a larger loss. It looks robust and the print quality and performance looks excellent. The 'cables' are hby NumberSix - General