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General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Re: newbie - firmware woes - 12 years ago
Hi there, If you are 'ok' with the process of downloading firmware then you could try Marlin on the Gen6 and switch back if you have too much difficulty getting it working. I'm using Marlin on a Gen6 board. It works well. I'm using Pronterface as host, and Slic3r to convert STLs to Gcode. I can mail you my configuration.h tab if you like so you can compare settings. Can you give a little more deby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: I should introduce myself / My machine - 12 years ago
Great intro video! Welcome to the forum. NumberSixby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: A reprapper in Dublin - 12 years ago
Nice one David! You're up and running. I'm not in Dublin but I'll still talk to you! Post some more detail about your set-up and I'll try help you improve the print quality. Print speed, software you are using, temperature you are running at, stuff like that will help. A little video of your machine in action can show a lot some times. Best of luck with it. NumberSix.by NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Re: Mk2 PCB Heated Print Bed - 12 years ago
Tks. Some useful suggestions there.by NumberSix - General Mendel Topics
Re: Mk2 PCB Heated Print Bed - 12 years ago
Hi Andy, Glad you got to the bottom of the problem. I'm thinking of ordering the heated bed myself also and am in the same boat with the Gen6 board that has not heated bed control (the order Gen6). If you have any ideas on how you plan controlling the temperature of the heated bed I'd be interested in hearing from you. Thanks, NumberSix.by NumberSix - General Mendel Topics
Re: Milled transparent extruder - 12 years ago
Hi Petrus, Nice work. I feel your pain in having to drill through stainless! I wouldn't have tackled a shaft as long as you manged to drill through though! I eventually found the best approach to drilling stainless was lots of pressure and low speed, no lubricant. Just get the drill to bite in and keep the pressure on as it peeled away. What I wanted to mention was that my little experimentingby NumberSix - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Greg's Hinged Accessible Extruder strength - 12 years ago
Hi guys! Firstly, thanks to Jeff (post above) for pointing this thread out to me (via a note to my blog). I can't keep up with all the posts and this one is well burried. Anyway, I do feel the need to make clear that while I did manage to break Gregs "Hinged Idler", (Sorry Greg! ) I don't think it was any fault with the design. The Idler in question was one of my first printed items and the priby NumberSix - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Re: Extruder chewing up filament into chips - 12 years ago
Tks for the feedback. Good to know you are back in action.by NumberSix - General
Re: New RepRap on the Block - 12 years ago
Nice work Brook. From recent updats on your site, it looks like you've hit a good balance of design and capability, and got the attention of a vast number of people ready and willing to dive into the RepRap world. You've just caught a big wave there! Best of luck with it! NumberSixby NumberSix - General
Re: Extruder chewing up filament into chips - 12 years ago
Hi there, Some additional info about what print speed you were running at and what type of hot-end you are using would be great also. A pict or two would be even better. What type of extruder are you using? Do you have a blog perhaps? In my experience the hobbed bolt doesn't start chipping the plastic until there is significant resistance below it. That could be caused by quite a number of factoby NumberSix - General
Re: Sources of aluminium composite sheet for print bed - 12 years ago
Hi there, Not sure what 'composite' material you have in mind. Are you looking for aluminium sheet suitable for attaching heat resistors, to build a heated bed? I'm keeping an eye out myself. I've been printing on a scrap piece of perspex at the moment. It not heated, and I'm reaching the limits of object size that will print without lifting off at this stage so I'm considering a Prusa heated priby NumberSix - Ireland RepRap User Group
Re: New Prusa Mendel in Clearwater Florida - 12 years ago
Welcome to the forum! That's great progress in such short space of time. Always good to see photos of other peoples constructions and progress. Nice going. NumberSix.by NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Fan on extruder - 12 years ago
Hi ElMatador, Welcome! It depends what photos you have been looking at. Fans are used to cool the 'cold-end', (the upper part of the extruder) keeping it cool. Be careful not to let air cool the hot end though if you are designing your own. If you see a fan cooling the printed work the it's probably a small piece that's being printed. A concentration of heat from the heater block when printingby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Could use some suggestions ... feed issues 
- 12 years ago
Hi Zomie, That J Head IV hot end you're using... Is this the what you have (see link) The wiki spec says it has a 1/8" internal diameter PTFE sleve, within the PEEK insulator. That's designed to take a 3mm filament. If that's what you have then feeding a 1.75mm filament into it could be the problem. I don't think there is a problem with the hobbed bolt, (even if it's designed for 3mm and it's feby NumberSix - General
Re: Sketchup Files wanted .skp (not .stl) - 13 years ago
Hi Russel I don't think full sets of Prusa parts have been done in SketchUp yet, but there's a ShetchUp plug-in out there called Cleanup (tt_cleanup.rb) which should allow you to clean up .stl files quickly in SketchUp. I'd be happy to see more SketchUp files out there myself. Can't get the hang of Open SCAD at all. NumberSixby NumberSix - 3D Design tools
Re: Vertical X axis Contest !! It's on like donkey kong !! 
- 13 years ago
Great idea! Nothing like a bit of competition!by NumberSix - General
Re: Oh joy, and take it apart...error in my build or manual? - 13 years ago
Hi Mikey, If you haven't taken your entire build apart already, you should be able to thread out that rod on it's own, to remove the unwanted nut and washers, without dismanteling your entire assembly, then thread it back in, check your alignments, and tighten back up. Hope it goes ok. NumberSix.by NumberSix - General
Re: Drilling into the side of a rod..... The hard way - 13 years ago
Drill a hole in a scrap block of wood that matches the rod. tap the rod in to the hole in the wooden block. The block will hold the rod as you drill the 4mm hole in the rod, through the wooden block! Filing the flat and center punching the location you want the hole is advisable also, in combination with the wooden block to hold the rod, since you don't seem to have a vice. The bigger question iby NumberSix - General
Re: Absolute beginner questions - 13 years ago
Hi Tothe, Welcome to the forum. There's good info on RepRap price points here (by Neil Underwood): (Aug 24th 2011 post). I posted a recent question about PLA vs ABS here: and got excellent responses from the many helpful people here on the forum. Best of luck. NumberSixby NumberSix - General
Re: PLA vs ABS - 13 years ago
Thanks guys, That's excellent feedback and many practical perspectives on the two materials. It puts a good 'real world' view on them both for me, and hopefully will be of value to other readers also. I've done some printing in PLA and now look forward to testing out some ABS, but as the advice seems to advise, not in the house! Thanks again, No.6by NumberSix - General
PLA vs ABS - 13 years ago
Hi all, Some questions about plastics: When printing a new RepRap which printer parts are best printed in ABS and which in PLA? In general, are repraps being printed in ABS or PLA? Is it just the "PLA bushings" that are typically printed in PLA? What characteristics of each material make then suitable for certain components or objects over others? Also, if not too much to ask, could people givby NumberSix - General
Gen6 Input Voltage and effect on heater - 13 years ago
Hi there, Could anyone tell me if I run 18v or 24v instead of 12v into the Gen6 board will my heater heat quicker? If delivering a higher input voltage, might it help sustain a given target temperature better? I'm using a mendel-parts resistor and thermistor in an aluminium block. I might add, I'm not unhappy with my heat-up time, but I'm concerned that as I try to print faster it would need mby NumberSix - Controllers
Re: Dialling in the accuracy - 10mm cube test...
- 13 years ago
Hi all, Update: I removed the extruder drive shaft and re-hobbed it cleaner and deeper (M3x0.5 tap). I tightened the springs on the idler bearing also once re-assembled, and tigntened some other cold-end motor mounting bolts that had come slightly loose. The whole assembly grabbed and fed the filament much better. Deffinetly no slippage now. I adjusted some Skeinforge setttings also before re-by NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: RepRap in the UK - 13 years ago
Welcome to the forum. Best of luck with your build.by NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Dialling in the accuracy - 10mm cube test... - 13 years ago
David – Thanks for your observations. I’m learning to read the signs and peoples explanations of their observations are invaluable. I have ‘reasonable’ pressure on the filament idler bearing, but I’m beginning to question the consistency with which I hobbed the drive spindle. It was my first effort. I think I’ll make a new one. I’ll also take on-board your observation about it still looking too hby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Dialling in the accuracy - 10mm cube test... - 13 years ago
Hi again, Another test print and photos... Note: Anyone scrolling down to this point, the 10mm cube is too big a challenge for now so instead I’m testing using a "circuit board spacer" reprap component, off Thingiverse. It’s roughly 24mm square. I’m only printing the first 8 layers or so, and filling it solid for test purposes. Speed down to 10mm/s all round. Fill 100%. 3mm PLA, .4mm nozzle. Heatby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Dialling in the accuracy - 10mm cube test... - 13 years ago
brnrd Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yes, it's very difficult to see details in the > photo. The sides don't line up well even on the > board spacer. 20 mm/s might still be too fast for > this part. I would try printing slower (10 or > lower) to give the part more time to cool down or > use a fan to blow on it. You can also use the Cool > pluby NumberSix - Reprappers
Re: Dialling in the accuracy - 10mm cube test... - 13 years ago
I dropped the temperature by 10C, to a Target Temperature of 200 (RepSnapper). Once up to temperature (Gen6 heater light flickering) RepSnapper displayed a current temperature of between 191 and 194. Looks like the rediated heat from the hot-end is concentrated because of the 10mm work area. It's not a good choice of test piece at this point I think. I also printed the 'circuit board spacer',by NumberSix - Reprappers