RATTM is one of the recommended steppers, cant remember what voltage, but current is more important. These are what I am running on my I3.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I see that they are Step Angle(degrees): 0.9 There is no need for 0.9 vs 1.8 degree steppers. It wont help your resolution and will limit you max speed (as you need to send twice as many step pulses). They will work however. 3700g.cm also concerns me "ideal stepper is NEMA17 size, rated 1.5A to 1.8A or less, 1-4 volts, 3 to 8 mH, 62oz.in (0.44Nm, 4.5kg.cm) or more of torque, 1.8 or 0.9 degby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
We don’t need a real physical EEPROM, we can fake it in software see The only catch is the eeprom gets over written when you upload a new firmware, but you can back it up with simply saving the results from a m503 command. The 4pi board has this same sort of system. (same results, haven’t looked at details)by Dust - Controllers
Can you advise as to your supplier? I suspect there are more than one supplier of these bad boards.by Dust - Controllers
I was looking at hacking on a VDrive1-PCB (now superseded with vdrive2) Its just a SPI or UART device that take simple serial commands. To me it looks very doable, but the firmware was beyond me...by Dust - Controllers
Behind the plug is a 3 legged device called a MOSFET, this device is turned on and off by a digital signal to the gate pin. With the gate enabled the device makes a connection from the ground of the Headed bed to the power ground turning it on. For details see Things that can go wrong: Firmware, your HOTBED pin is defined incorrectly. If your firmware has a Melzi setting and you haven’t plby Dust - Controllers
Sorry to say all plates and kits have now been sold.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Sadly the latest victom had already put faverable feedback, as it looked ok. That was before he plugged it in and it took out his FET. He is considering ordering annother one just to leave a scorching review!by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Site only has top images, fault in on the bottom (non heating side). there should be a void of copper around the threw holes, there isn’t one on these. I posted this on behalf of the 3 others that have been caught out. (one got two boards, both the same) The threw holes on the connecting padsby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
They have the plated threw holes directly to the sold copper layer on the other side. Instant short! Can be fixed by drilling out the plate threw holes or cutting a insulation gap around the holes on the back. Have found 4 cases of this so far....by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
They have the plated threw holes directly to the sold copper layer on the other side. Instant short! Can be fixed by drilling out the plate threw holes or cutting a insulation gap around the holes on the back. Have found 4 cases of this so far....by Dust - Controllers
Sent you a PM with lots of details.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes its my own plastics. My own plate also, I had 10 made. Down to 2 left. But only selling them with a partial kit.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Mendel is better as first printer... delta is a tricky to debug with everything moving at once. I went for a Aluminium plate type. My I3 Plastics, I would go for the standard I3 box plastics (even if you go for a plate option, it is configurable for a plate also) The ones in the image are original plate plastics. Main limitation is that there is no belt tensioners, which is useful, but notby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
re I3, I don't know where you get your information from but consider this: The electronics are the same as a I2, the firmware is the same and the i2, the linear motion parts (rods and bearings) are the same as a I2, the belts and pulleys are the same as a I2... only the frame is different. The I3 is much easier to make sure the X,Y and Z are all at 90 degrees from each other and has strength inby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes should have all 3 jumpers for each pololu driver.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
not the i2c one... thats normally only used on Sanguinololu Displays Technically either could be made to work, but i2c is not the 'normal' way on a rampsby Dust - Controllers
Command? No. they send 3 * 5v signals, enable, step and direction. And enabling it without moving it is normal. I suspect you plugged the endstop into + and -... creating an instant short.. But that should be 5v... The symptoms are like you crossed the 12v onto the 5v line, that would kill the mega and the pololus almost instantly.by Dust - Controllers
Silly question, but why "add 12V regulator for 24V operation" for power for to the due I can understand But.. 24volt HBP are becoming more common for larger areas and heats up a lot faster, and pololus run fine with 24 on the stepper side and the steppers move faster and stay cooler. So please don’t force 12v operation, as 24v in places is really useful!by Dust - Controllers
bobc is correct. usb to parallel can only do 8 bit data, you cant control the individual pins like you need to to use as a programmer.by Dust - Controllers
They also have really cheap jheads... once again quality unknown. Who wants to take a gamble and do a review?by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
FYI ramps for $18.99 USD, free shipping. Was being discussed online tonight... haven’t personally tried one.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
RS did free shipping on those thermistors, but you have to buy 5... And you also need PTFE tubing to prevent the leads shoring on the ALU block...by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I've ordered 2 and they arrived :p That's the limit of my experience so far. Observations: They are smaller in real life than I expected. They don't come with thermistor or heating element. The thermistor hole is very small. A standard thermistor is about 3mm diameter. This hole is about 1.5mm (not measured) They recommend a fan on the barrel, not provided The creator recommends these tby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I don’t know what your building, but they fit fine on my I3. They are a standard lengthby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
They are 5mm round with a flat edge, for pulley grub screws etc.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
is where I usually get suitable stepper motors (thats a pack of 5) They are known to work well. Good supplier.. cables are a little short and will need probably need extending and plugs, depending on what electronics you decide to use.by Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Grael talk about cross talk.. your quote from maker bot website is about thermal insulation "ptfe-versus-peek-thermal-insulating-barrier" Your other quote from reprap is about the material itself So the first one isnt related to printed bushes at all. PLA does not stick to steel, or very many thing really.. Put it this way, when people where printing bushes regularly, all those in the knowby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
PLA is better for bushes, much better wear... And as for nylon... I have some hiding waiting for some time to get to play with it! Actually I know a guy in wellington who is already printing in nylon, we split the order... to split the shipping costs... expensive stuff when your in NZby Dust - New Zealand RepRap User Group
The above is correct, you need to select 644p or 1284p in the Arduino IDE Sadly though they also aren't in the standard IDE, You download them from Also use Arduino 1.0.4 newer versions aren’t support (yet)by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)