.17mm Layers ("Medium, Solid" settings, with extrusion width reduced to .3mm to allow infill inside the tiny gears) Had zero problems slicing the files with KISSlicer.by Andrew Diehl - Competitions
Answers! Feed-Rate 25mm/s perimeter, 50mm/s fill, 200mm/s travel. Printer: Fablicator Hotend: Custom, .35mm orifice, direct drive, 1.75mm filament. No problem maintaining 330C. I've been doing everything pretty much exactly the same as ABS (no fan, 120C bed, .4mm width, .25mm thick layers) How big is "Decent Size?" I pull the Kapton right off the bed on all but the smallest prints. Havby Andrew Diehl - Polymer Working Group
Got some of the ProtoParadigm PC today and did up a few prints. Pretty significant warping and very poor layer adhesion on all counts. Printed it at a variety of temps (90C-120C bed temps and 260C-330C Extruder temps.) I also tried different bed materials combinations (glass, abs solution, Kapton) It extrudes wonderfully, but I just can't get it to behave at all so far. Any thoughts or similby Andrew Diehl - Polymer Working Group
Printed this up at .17mm, 10% fill, 3 'shells' using KISSlicer on Fablicators. Total print time was about 3hrs, though each part was made on a different printer, and the whole thing took ~45 min Of course I never bothered reading the updates in the thread before I printed this, and did the original at 150% instead of the zipped file.by Andrew Diehl - Competitions
Mold temperature is approximately equivalent to our heated bed temperature, NOT melt temp.by Andrew Diehl - General
An acetone vapor bath works absolute wonders for ABS. PLA, not so much.by Andrew Diehl - General
Ultimachine, Makerbot, and Protoparadigm have had good stuff in the past. I'm almost entirely sure they have the same supplier.by Andrew Diehl - General
Is the smoothing factor set to 1? It needs to be .95 or less, otherwise the PID never behaves like it should.by Andrew Diehl - General
That is high :p Yes, zero backlash is possible with belts.by Andrew Diehl - General
Sounds like you have something clogging the extruder nozzle (tiny chip of metal from the machining process, or broken hobbed bolt tooth perhaps)by Andrew Diehl - General
Try KISSlicer. It completes each island before heading to the next.by Andrew Diehl - General
It's one thing to reproduce their boards, but you HAVE to remove their trademarked and copywrited logos. Period.by Andrew Diehl - For Sale
What little I've seen of the Orbi-tech leads me to believe it is nowhere near as rubbery as the shapeways product.by Andrew Diehl - General
Try printing the "bad" white "ABS" with settings for good white PLA. Wouldn't be the first time somebody messed up the label on a spool...by Andrew Diehl - General
Dual head printing is barely feasible these days. LOTS of problems to be worked out. Like preventing a nozzle from drooling all over the print while the other is printing. A simple next step for the mechanics could be an 'end stop' style switch on the filament feed, so when your spool runs out it pauses the print and waits for more filament to be loaded.by Andrew Diehl - General
How about just printing the mold negative and casting the soles in whatever material you want?by Andrew Diehl - Polymer Working Group
Maybe? Send an e-mail to andrew@fablicator.com and we can discuss specifics.by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I make stuff!
Does it have an actual stepper for the extruder, or is it an encoded DC motor?by Andrew Diehl - General
The extrusion process we use depends on the filament being rigid right until it is flowable. I don't believe this would work unless there was a material which became 'rubbery' only after being heated to a high temperature above it's normal melting point (otherwise how would it become filament in the first place?)by Andrew Diehl - General
Video of the printer?by Andrew Diehl - General
Giant companion cube, eh?by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Slow down the print speed. Without the look-ahead of marlin, the printer needs to decelerate between each segment. By slowing down the print the speed variation is less noticeable.by Andrew Diehl - General
"In addition, the consumer printer couldn’t build a usable part." "Contrary to what consumer-class 3D printers lead you to believe, the extrusion tips must be replaced at regular intervals." Glad to see the review is fair and unbiasedby Andrew Diehl - General
Based on some recent patents I've been snooping, the hot end consists of just the metal part of the nozzle with a gap for the "hobbed bolt equivalent" to poke through and grip the filament. I bet all heating/heat-sinking is done on the machine and not on the cartridge. Also looks like the anti-refill chip is built into the print head. The rest of the space is taken up by the~ 800W power supplyby Andrew Diehl - General
WOW. $300/kg for material.by Andrew Diehl - General
Do they need to be solid? How soon is ASAP? They are fairly large, and at 4hr/each, would put 10 at $400USD. 25% fill and 1.2mm thick walls would be $20/each See for samples of my prints.by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
And just what do you need made?by Andrew Diehl - Job Shop: I need stuff made!
Option 2 is not a real option. (or at least I've never seen it done and don't see how it is plausible)by Andrew Diehl - General
You can also check out Kisslicer, it's not open source but it is free (and FAST)by Andrew Diehl - Developers