Search
General discussions. For specific printers / electronics / fabrication methods / softwares, please see other sections.
Page 1 of 1 Pages: 1
Results 1 — 29 of 29
... hier gabs ganz zu Beginn einige Projekte dazu - lies mal hier durch (Stichworte "auger" "hopper" "granule"):
by
VDX
-
General
You might visit the lyman again and read the design files as an auger design (non drill bit) is included. Otherwise you could also buy the usd 630 filabot feed screw.
However and if wrong I'm sure others will correct me, the auger is not about speed but about filament diameter consistency. It's rather easy to get the lyman (or any other filament extruder) to do 1kg/hour or faster just throw in a
by
Frans@France
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
Beim Lyman würde ich das nicht ausschliessen.
Der macht seit Jahren nix anderes und hat jetzt die V5 am Start.
Gesehen habe ich den Plastikextruder als Bild auch noch nicht, nur die Konstruktionszeichnung.
Aber ein Steinbohrer mit Widiaeinsatz vorne sind die "Schnecken" defintiv nicht.
Lyman spicht in seinen Blogs und Beiträgen immer von "Holzbohrern"
Gib mal "auger drill bit" in google ein und
by
CopyRight
-
Allgemeines
Thanks for your help.
Yes, the reason I used a 12mm pipe at one end and a 10mm at the other is that I had a 12mm auger but only a 10mm brass fitting to screw the end stop into.
I didn't mention it in the first post but I have already cut the end of the auger flat due to problems with the pipe clogging.
I understand what you mean about the pressure drop, I can imagine some of the plastic having fr
by
KarlB
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
12mm leading into a 10mm bore is causing a pressure drop, and will take more force to operate, and it places the auger further away from the nozzle. This also increase the amount of resin in compression (it's a spring), and will cause some diameter variation. I would think that you would want to terminate the auger at the face of the nozzle. Grind the end of the auger flat. I would probably w
by
A2
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
QuoteCos
Τι μου λες ρε μαστορα!
Με γεια το μηχανημα κατ'αρχας, και χαιρομαι που δεν ειμαι ο μονος που μιλαω για reprap και ο αλλος να κοιταει με το βλεμμα της αγελαδας.. :-)
λοιπον εγω ειμαι τακτικος πελατης του reprapsource, οπου το αφεντικο ειναι και ολη μερα στο irc
το παλικαρι εχει nickname 'jlgauche' και ειναι γερμαναρας. Περα απο αυτο το μειονεκτημα, ειναι γρηγορος και τα στελνει με DHL
by
alfadex
-
Greek RepRap User Group, ελληνική ομάδα χρηστών
Lyman just uses a hunk of lead pushing on top of his pellet hopper and then an auger drill bit.
I don't know how you would determine the pressure required of his design. Looks like it was probably trial and error.
by
mattmc
-
General
There are various pellet/granule extruders. I think most of them have a rotating internal screw rather than rotating the chamber wall. Many use the same pellets as are used to make filament, but some use recycled filament. You'll find a number of them with a quick google search (one example using an auger drill bit is Filament Extruder)
If you're thinking of driving filament with the thread, you
by
dgm3333
-
Developers
Low cost filament extruder made from 10 mm ID stainless steel tube, silver soldered inside an ordinary plumber 15 mm copper tube (melt zone) Auger is a 10 mm wood drill bit with the end cut off 5-10 mm in the melt zone. 1 mm hole in a brass endstop at the end of the copper pipe. Aluminium block with a 15 mm hole to fit around the copper pipe. Fixed to the outside of the aluminium two 220 volt
by
Xabbax
-
Plastic Extruder Working Group
I've been working on a filament extruder for the last few days, and so far my experiments with melting HDPE (old milk bottles) have been going very well.
Used some old copper pipe for the tube, and a large wood drill bit (steel) for the auger, wrapped some nichrome wire around the tube for heating, and secured with kapton tape.
I connected the nichrome wire to the extruder heater out pins of a ge
by
KarlB
-
General
Simba Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Or are there real
> fundamental reasons the carriage mounted extruder
> can't work with ease?
I think that the auger designs are fundamentally wrong. Here's why:
The drive screw is not a positive displacement pump. It doesn't have a constant relation from input rotation to output volume like progressive cavity pumps
by
ttsalo
-
Developers
Thanks. I want to hear from you and others how granule extruders are so difficult so I can address each issue in my attempt. Lets all (readers, not you persay) be honest and figure out what the issues are. Are we resistant to change because the potential cost savings (and ability to use novel materials like elastomers) is not as important as having something tried and true that is working toda
by
Simba
-
Developers
What level of consistency is needed? I remember reading a link online for a recent home made extruder (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,166442). The filament was like 1.78 mm +- 0.02 mm. I can bet you that the rest of a reprap system doesn't have enough accuracy (i.e., 0.02 mm) at the hot-end level, + hobbed bolt, + heat flow differences, for this to matter. I think it would be a problem i
by
Simba
-
Developers
Just an update for everyone. We've been contacting the world of thermoplastic rod manufacturers to try and get a custom order made. This is where having a company facade & website is great because they take us seriously, whereas before they wouldn't ever reply. Two companies said no (or didn't reply) after reviewing specs, and one said yes (all are in Ohio). So we may be getting the polym
by
Simba
-
General
Le-Seaw Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> aber er hat es geschafft und ich bin schon am
> zusammensuchen der Teile.
> Der Kawasaki Auger ist nicht zu bekommen wie mir
> scheint
Du meinst den hier?
Wann lesen wir was über Deinen Bau?
*
Oh, ich lese gerade: Not Available to Germany
Was ist das denn?
Hat da einer was gegen uns?
by
theodleif
-
Extruder, Hotends & verschiedene Materialien
As mentioned elsewhere...I have an extruder design that is nearly commissioned. It uses a drill press and auger with some custom metalwork and a specially designed microcontroller board with buttons/LCD/thermocouple interfaces/ solid state relays etc
Will post more info when I am happy that it performs "as advertised" and will probably offer various parts for others to make their own machines.
by
COASTELECTRONICS
-
General
To build a truss or panel bigger than the working surface, it is necessary to add new material onto already made pieces that have been moved to extend of the edge of the bed (secured by movable arms/clamps and positioned with registration pins). This means that the extruder has to build right up to the side of something taller than the current piece under construction. Normally, the extruder head
by
rocket_scientist
-
Kartik M. Gada Humanitarian Innovation Prize
An introductory note: as it turns out, I'm currently building a RepRap as an official university project, with funding and all. It will be used primarily to build monolithic shells for minisumo-class robots, as a light, durable and cheap replacement for laser-cut aluminum, but other uses are surely going to emerge. One of the first things I thought of was contacting and engaging some fellow stude
by
Anonymous User
-
Mechanics
nophead Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Perhaps a brass nozzle and melt zone, a short
> section of stainless pipe leadin to block of
> aluminium with a big heatsink attached.
>
> You need to keep the SS section short because
> there is always a problem point where the plastic
> has softened but not melted. It just expands to
> plug the tub
by
Annirak
-
Mechanics
Wade Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Annirak, do you have a source for these 300%
> efficient Peltier devices? With something like
> that, who needs a RepRap? Thermodynamics be
> damned!
>
Well, that's how heat pumps work. Efficiency numbers are virtually *always* over 100%. To get a peltier device to run as high as I've stated, you need to po
by
Annirak
-
Mechanics
Annirak, do you have a source for these 300% efficient Peltier devices? With something like that, who needs a RepRap? Thermodynamics be damned!
On a more serious note, that extruder looks nice. A plug in power drill might even have enough power to mechanically melt the plastic without an external heater, just run it in reverse and let it go! It'd be too big to fit on the RepRap, but like
by
Wade
-
Mechanics
You may have the basis of an extruder for ABS filament from granule. The drill ideally wants to be used in reverse as that has the sharp edges to form a seal. I tried a large bit in some of my oil press experiments. Unless you have a very close fitting metal tube the auger can bend and shear under load, especially at higher temperatures take care. I will re look again at my notes.
I had to
by
Joules
-
Mechanics
Here's what I've got so far:
The parts:
Preparing to ream the T:
I couldn't quite hold on to the T as I drilled it, so here is my makeshift handle:
My progress so far:
This is where my questions above come in. I'm most concerned about the insulator right now.
by
Annirak
-
Mechanics
I'm working on an extruder based on a hopper/auger concept using readily available parts. I used the extruder diagram at as the reference for my design. The variable size and thread spacing of the auger isn't quite possible for me without machining a feed-drive. This goes against my design principle of using all readily available parts.
With the parts I could find at the hardware store, here
by
Annirak
-
Mechanics
well in theory couldn't you just flip the wood auger drill the other way. Grind off the shank and grind off one or two revolutions frrm the other side so you have some place to attach "stuff".
by
ronanwarrior
-
Mechanics
Forrest Higgs Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Why not just use a regular wood auger type drill
> bit?
My guess is that because they are designed to pull material toward the drive motor they would not work properly in reverse. Perhaps a long auger could be ground down to make a shaft on the other end.
by
JohnWasser
-
Mechanics
The challenge was an auger from local store material. I haven't seen any 'ready to buy' version and I also was totally into my washer idea
My reference was the wiki granule extruder. Except for the linked drill bit experiences report I think that the faces of the thread (from outer diameter to outer core) are too small to transport the needed amount of granule or even get the granule in case of
by
uplift
-
Mechanics
Why not just use a regular wood auger type drill bit?
by
Forrest Higgs
-
Mechanics
I was trying to come up with cheap ways to recycle plastic into 3mm filament. Had this vague idea of taking an electric deep fryer and drilling a hole in the bottom. The nice thing about them is that most have an adjustable thermostat and are made of cast aluminum (easy to drill).
Not sure how to force the plastic out consistently, though. I've got a soft-serve ice cream maker that has a mixing
by
degroof
-
Mechanics