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Thanks for the suggestions. Beside the wires melting, there were no sign of any damage on both the board/headed bed. How would I test to see if it is the ADC pins that failed? Do I do a continuity test to ground on those 16 pins?
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
So I have this printer for awhile now (from Kickstarter) and one of the component just quit and I don't know where to start to diagnosis the problem. It's a Rigidbot Big that is running a board based on Arduino Mega2560 & RAMPS 1.4. Not sure what the problem is (short circuit?) but Cura is reading a very high number whether the heated bed wires are plugged in or not at 358° degrees C.
- I ha
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Had some time to test some more and giving this PSU a third attempt to power the whole system and is working somewhat. The max temp it can do before failing is 30C to the heatbed. I attached the 5A to the yellow 24pin cable. I can set 185C to hotend and 30C MAX to heatbed in my test. Not sure if that is the optimal temperature for PLA and if running this for entire print at peak is dangerous. Any
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Just a update that it appear that something fail during the spark as I can not get a constant flow to power both the hotend and heatbed from the same PSU. I tried PCI-E to heatbed and sata/8pin to hotend so it does not look possible. Would just die as soon as I try. The weird thing is that it work once..when I power the heatbed first then the rest but...I can not recreate the same result again..
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
I had it hook up to some 6 pin connector and everything went well but when I try to measure the 5A power slot it cause some sparks and as soon as that happen the whole system shut down (Ramps and PSU). I couldn't power it on afterward and had to reset it by pulling out the green/blk pin. I tried moving and powering the 5A side by connecting the 6 pin cable and it didn't change anything. Still cou
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Ok so it look like the problem was in fact the PSU. I replaced it with a brand name one with max amperage of 28A and the unit is working fine so far beside a small mishap that invole spark when I tried measuring. There is no problem trying to power my heatbed and hotend seperately but the PSU would give and die out if I tried powering both so that earlier spark did a number on something and the o
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi, this is what happen when I used a load such as a small bulb. Connected it to a red/black wire and the system stayed on until I manually power it off (5-10sec). I turn it back on to test it again and the system and bulb power on for a sec then shuts off. Only time it would turn on again for over a sec is when I relocate to a different red/blk wire and the process repeat it self. Pretty bizarre
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Thanks for all the information but I can't get it working for some reason. I connected 2 Yellow / 2 Black to 11A and 1 yellow/black to 5A all 22 AWG and have a wire connected from GREEN to BLACK. When I turn it on it just power the system for a second then it power off. Tried connecting pin 1 to pin 11 but that didn't help. I checked Green connection multiple times and tried connecting to another
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
I was a bit worry that 18A yellow plug would be too much amperage for the 5A positive slot without some resistor in place. I will be connecting my mother board pin14 green to pin16 blk like you mention. As for the heat bed I am going to use some excess nema 17 motor wire (1.4mm thick) to connect to the D8 slot of my ramps and use the same wire to extend to and from the PSU if it is too short. Not
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi, so I have a heat bed coming soon and I want to nail down a couple of things first so I don't fry myself or the electronic. I want to replace the old setup(single 12V 5A PS) with a PC power supply that has 18A to power the whole thing including the new heat bed(Max 11A). Do I just use these 2 yellow pc plug and have them go to 5A+ and 11A+ plug and the black one to negative?
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sypher
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RAMPS Electronics
Hi Mark, any update on when you would be comfortable recommending an alternative hotend for all Sumpod user? Haven't seen any update on your blog and my current heat resistor lead broke off during a print a few weeks ago and this seem like the perfect time to retire the hotend. Looking to order something this week in case they need some lead time and have something arrive here to work on before t
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sypher
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Printing
Just manage to push out a finished calibration block below. Not bad for having to continuously assist the stepper motor for almost 1 and a half hour. Beside a sore thumb, I am pleased with the end result. Found out that it is often a hit and miss with this system and require a lot of supervision so I am looking forward to your recommendation ASAP. Just curious as to which two kit are you looking
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sypher
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Printing
Airtripper Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> You are not getting enough plastic out of the
> nozzle for the feed rate set. This will cause the
> plastic to be pulled, dragged and stretched across
> the bed surface. The extruder system shipped with
> the Sumpod does not perform to expectations and as
> prompted me and others to upgrade.
>
> Y
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sypher
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Printing
1. extrude manually lots - ie. 100-200mm or so - mine too will curl up but then after a couple of 10, 20 even 30mm extrudes will run ok (i have 3mm PLA). at 205. (need to make sure you can do this well to start with i think).
Going back to basic is a good place to start so here is the manual extrude (1.75mm PLA)
2. then when i start printing i will get the first layer down ok (and fill) a
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sypher
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Printing
Roger, I find that it stick better on paper than the blue masking tape. I am not sure why my print is jumping xx mm every few layer or so. What ever is causing that is in this gcode I uploaded if it is software related. It would normally extrude great for the first layer then it will struggle to fill in the gap and goes downhill from there.
I had some time to trouble shoot this some more and I
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sypher
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Printing
I haven't gotten far enough to let it do a full print because the first couple of layer is really bad...I uploaded these images to show you guys how bad and hopefully someone can lead me to the right path as I am stumped. Hey rogerw, I briefly look at your thread and we have similar problem but not quite. I do however need to manually have to pull and push it so it doesn't ooze out and create a b
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sypher
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Printing
I have been trying to figure this problem for some time now and really need some help with this. The machine mechanically runs ok but the extruder doesn't sync with the speed and has problem extruding the correct amount. After the first layer, it just leave a small dot of plastic only on top of the layer underneath it and does not connect or fill in 40% like I set in Splicer. I read some where th
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sypher
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Printing
Thanks for the input. Can some one tell me why ReplicatorG would retract my fillament about 3 inches before a print and is there a way to stop my PLA from keep oozing out before and after a print job?
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sypher
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Printing
I am having a hard time trying to get my PLA to extrude evenly down as oppose to go against gravity and curl up as soon as it leave the printer head. If I use some left over plastic on the end it would be enough weight to pull and guide the strand down but without that the PLA would just curl up and form a mess at the exit. I am using some extra yellow 1.75mm PLA that came with my order from Ulti
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sypher
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Printing
I guess it was homing correctly in Printrun before a print but quite the opposite when using ReplicatorG. In ReplicatorG it would skip the homing and goes right to printing but it doesn't seem to print what I loaded. It move maybe 10x as much as it should but I double checked with a digital caliper and even tried scaling the object down. I have also check for belt slippage and grip and it is all
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sypher
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Printing
Hey Tom, I think I got the connection correct as when I use Printrun the initial stage move all the axis toward the limit switch and stop but not sure why it doesn't do anything after the print head is ready. The software limit switch is set in my Configuration.h file for all three axis "const int X_MAX_LENGTH = 120;"
I am using this and as you can see that it is a very tiny pully so it shouldn'
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sypher
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Printing
I have this new printer setup and calibrated for some time now and what is stopping me from actually doing a full print run is that it would do the following in this two program. In ReplicatorG, after creating the gcode from a .stl file and hitting print button, the machine would start printing normally and slowly edge to the X limit switch and would keep on going until I hit the power switch. Sa
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sypher
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Printing
So the problem turns out to be the fan and heatsink combo. When I disable the fan it is now reaching over 200. I have a new problem now and hopefully someone can help me out. When I load a model into ReplicatorG with a gcode of that item and when I hit print it start to print some other file and NOT the model I see. I tried resetting it and reuploading the Sprinter software a couple of time but e
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sypher
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Printing
I have everything assemble and during the extruder test in replicatorG the software cap it at 154C when I set it to 220. Temperatur start to raise but once it hit that degree it just hang there for duration of my test.
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sypher
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Printing
A little warning for those considering buying sumpod from a former customer. Apparently I just got banned from the forum for just posting a technical question to get my pod working after a year putting it on hold. I just ask about motor issue that I am having and did not include any negativity about richard or sumpod and that was enough to get the ban hammer. Many people got ban in similar fashio
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sypher
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For Sale
cool, that seem to do the trick. another problem that I encounter now with the Z stepper motor. It doesn't like going up. When I tell it to go up it just spazzed out and doesn't move an inch. I figure it was too much weight and didn't have enough torque or something but when I lift the platform exposing just the motor it still doesn't want to move up. The weird thing is that if I press down 4x10m
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sypher
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hi, very new to this 3D printing scene and have worked my way throught this wiki. I am calibrating the motor but the X platter motor is making this high pitch sound every sec like a heart beating. It also only move x mm a sec when I tell it to move 10mm but not the whole 10mm at a single go and it have a small kick at each move where it move an extra 1-2mm. Y is working as it should but X is acti
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sypher
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Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
looking good so far and this is something that i expected as a manual when i bought my sumpod. can't wait till 2,3, and 4. really like those close up shot and maybe use a less distracting background but keep it up. it is shaping into a great community and thanks for taking the time to do this.
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sypher
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General
this is definitely a bargain for the amount of thought and effort that has already been put in but until we get it running, it is only a potential product for me. thumb up for the design atm. btw, i am still waiting for that email richard.
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sypher
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General
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