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Re Bonjour a tous,
je suis surpris que personne soit interessé. Semblerait qu'il va falloir que je démarre ma propre communauté, donc si il y a des nouveau qui veulent de l'info, voir une imprimante, du support pour fabriquer la leur, savoir ou commander les pieces etc... envoyé moi un PM.
Au plaisir,
Fred.
by
thecrazy
-
Canada, Montreal RUG
> little tip : use water down PVA for your heated
> bed when using PLA Plastic. Then after the print
> has finished let the glass cool and remove take
> down to a sink and cover with soapy water. this
> will melt the PVA and lift the print very very
> easy.
I do the same thing with Hairspray, i think its easier to put on and it definitly dries faster.
Check out my post to see
by
thecrazy
-
Competitions
Bonjour a tous!
Depuis un bout de temps je pense a organiser une journée rencontre pour les trippeux d'imprimante 3D de la région.
Je suis de la rive sud de Montréal (près de ste-julie) et a ce que je vois on pourrais certainement être une bonne 10aines au moin!
J'aimerais organiser des rencontres ou tout le monde peuvent amener leur imprimantes et travailler ensemble pour les améliorer et part
by
thecrazy
-
Canada, Montreal RUG
Voici un autre fournisseur pour les visses et boulons et autre "hardware".
Ils on des bureau au Canada et dans la province même!
Pas les même prix que McMaster Carr mais quand même beaucoup moin chère que tout ce que j'ai trouvé ailleur:
by
thecrazy
-
Canada, Montreal RUG
tmorris9: that was regular glass right? you wont have this kind of problem with borrosilicate glass
by
thecrazy
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General
I havent read the whole thread but here are my 2 cents, I recently ordered chinese filament and it seemed like it was crap, causing all sorts of issues with the print head dragging plastic all over. I then looked at the underside of my prints and realized that they werent sticking to the print bed. Some areas were bumped up which caused all these issues.
Your first layer is critical and HAS to s
by
thecrazy
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General
If your still getting curling with a brim, use a longer brim!
by
thecrazy
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General
I dont want to hijack this "ABS" thread but for PLA use hairspray. I've been using this for a while with excellent results!
Check out my blog for more info: http://gearforge.blogspot.ca/2012/10/wont-you-stick-to-my-cold-bed-please.html
What is funny is that, when dry, it actually makes the surface finish of my print bed looks similar to richgain's anti-reflective glass, but in this case, the te
by
thecrazy
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General
With good instructions Marlin isnt too complicated to setup. As for Printrun, I would suggest Repetier-Host instead.
Maybe even repetier firmware for its interesting communication protocol (its got error correction if im not mistaken and is more optimized, less/no pauses when printing at lower com port speed etc...) and its suposedly as good as merlin but I havent tried it yet so I can only vouc
by
thecrazy
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Developers
Well then I guess we dont really care about sailfish then, I dont see pauses when printing anyways. Most likely the autor of marlin will take a peek at sailfish and if there is anything really good he will take note of it.
BTW Wraithnot if your still having crashes when printing over usb, change your usb cable for a shielded usb cable. I used to have problems printing 10mins without a crash, now
by
thecrazy
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Reprappers
Ok so you are not seeing the kind of quality difference seen between sprinter and marlin (smoother finish for example)
by
thecrazy
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Reprappers
So I was looking into available firmwares and im kinda lost in all that is out there.
I use marlin right now and found out about repetier-firmware which looks intenresting and Sailfish just came out, the guy claims its faster and gives better prints than marlin.
If someone has experiance with 2 or more of these firmwares please share your experiance
Marlin:
Repetier-firmware:
Sailfish:
by
thecrazy
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Reprappers
How about asking the guys at Github if they could help? 3D printing is the future, they may be interested in adding a bunch of features specialy for us. Would have to come from someone reputable in the community though, not a newb like me.
by
thecrazy
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General
Looking good! when will you guys have new PLA colors? Also if you could sell some PVA for support structures that would be awesome.
by
thecrazy
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For Sale
This is quite expensive for a J head clone.
Get the real thing here from the one who actualy invented it and for cheaper.
by
thecrazy
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For Sale
Print two and wear them with pride!
by
thecrazy
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General
Man I looked everywhere for that info! I read it somewhere a while ago when I was planning on building my printer and now couldn't find it.
Thank you very much!
by
thecrazy
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Skeinforge
It wasn't meant as an insult to the author. However complex the software is (I know it is) there are ways to organise, name, sort things etc... in a way that makes more sense. Currently the gui is enough of a "mess" or "unpolished" whatever expression you like, that someone took time to make another gui for it. This is not only my opinion, I have read multiple times how complicated and unfriendly
by
thecrazy
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Skeinforge
Well, things look much better now thanks to you!
Just one thing I cant figure out, whenever I start a print the extruder reverses and ejects the filament. Doesnt makes sense to me, here is the begining of my gcode.
Any idea?
G28
G90
G21
M103
M105
M106
M113 S1.0
M108 S3.099
M104 S218.528
G1 X112.14 Y135.595 Z0.13 F3000.0
G1 F798.0
G1 E0.0
G1 F3000.0
M101
G1 X112.589 Y136.617 Z0.13 F185.9662 E0.
by
thecrazy
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Skeinforge
Looks great! you should contact the author of Skeinforge and offer your help to clean up his gui mess!
by
thecrazy
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Skeinforge
Thank you very much for your input, I did configure some basics in there, followed a guide but it would seem its incomplete. I did have 25mm set as the feed rate, tought that would have taken care of the stepper speed.
I will verify all this tonight.
Thanks again.
by
thecrazy
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Skeinforge
I have been slicing using slic3r for a while and everything works ok there. Wanted to give a shot to Skeinforge but I cant figure out why, when I print gcode generated using it, the axis are moving EXTREMELY slowly.
I have no clue what is going on, tried to read a few tutorials looked at the settings in every tabs and I just cant figure it out.
Can someone help please?
by
thecrazy
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Skeinforge
This is very interesting, im sure a lot of people are interested in testing your products and I'm one of them!
If by chance you still need ppl to beta test and help iron out the kinks I'm in.
by
thecrazy
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General
BAMCNC Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> It's a good idea, wither or not it will work
> *accurately* is another thing. I have a CNC Mill,
> I know there are more forces at work in a mill,
> but you wouldn't belive how much the end of YOUR
> arm WILL sag down, my guess is more than 1-3
> layers when it's at the end of the arm,
I was thinking the
by
thecrazy
-
General
This is the "General" section of the forum so I hope its ok to post this here.
Theres a very nice project going on on Kickstarter that is fully funded for an opensource DIY (and very inexpensive) Spectrometer! For those who dont know what it is, it allows you to analyse and identify materials and what they are composed of.
The reason I am posting here is there is 50 supporters missing for the S
by
thecrazy
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General
Sincerement, si vous en avez les moyens, laissez faire la Prusa mendel et allez y pour une Prism Mendel ou une Mendel Max.
Si tu a besoin de pieces laisse moi savoir, je charge la pas mal la meme chose que sur ebay.
by
thecrazy
-
Canada, Montreal RUG
I was able to print single walled cylinders properly even before adjusting belt tension.
by
thecrazy
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Reprappers
Yes! definitly!
Thank you very much guys.
Proves how good GT2 pulleys and belts are though. My belts are very slack compared to that video and I still only get a 0.04mm variation on my X and Y when calibrating.
Cant wait to thighten and recalibrate!
by
thecrazy
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Reprappers
I found this PDF on GT2 belts and pulleys Click here
It explains how to calculate proper belt tension but... I dont speak maths. It makes my brain overheat.
If someone understands and cares to do the maths Id really appreciate it.
Here are the details for my pulleys:
Belt pitch GT2 (2 mm)
Belt width 6 mm
Number of teeth 36
Length 17.5 mm
Pitch diameter 23 mm
Flange diameter 27.6 mm
by
thecrazy
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Reprappers
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