Yes you need to set max feed rates in firmware, so software can't exceed those values. As for what they should be set to... can only be found by trial and error.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
I second a 32 bit controller, but recomend a smoothieboard..by Dust - Controllers
Repstrapping is it... The only thing you really have to be concerned with is bed size and build height. Will all the individual parts I want for the 2nd revision fit on in the build area. The parts wont be prety, but nothing drilling and filing cant make close enough. These days there isnt much point in restraping, unless you want to... I did way back when, but that was because back then a seby Dust - General
The ide is a bit buggy Some errors freeze the display instead of displaying the error Run the ide from the comand line, when it freezes, send the command line a CTRL C, this will kill the ide, but will also show the error its getting hung up on.by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
If you have a bed that moves up and down, Z is correct. Controlls are relaitive to the position of the head. Eg to move the head up, the bed must move down. re Y axis check what the end stop is saying with a m119 command, both when presses and when it not. should say triggered when depressed Have you tuned your vrefs? (the pots on the pololu modules) to little power and it bounces around aby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
I have confirmed this issue... its the marlin your using. real marlin from set to #define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_MELZI and #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER Compiles without issues for a 1284p... (runs out of space on a 644p)by Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
I would try a more stable arduino ide 1.6.4 for eg... a beta is well... beta NB the way you add Sanguino support is now different in 1.6.4 see install sanguinoby Dust - Sanguino(lolu)
I would re soldere you pololus first... might not be dead.. For eg Middile pololu in your picture, pin 2 from the left of the module top row. The solder blob there looks oramental!by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
It does look like they have forgotten the input to the +5 servo rail, on a normal ramps it near reset button. But never mind Plug you servo in. at the other end of the servo bank plug 5+ into the middle + rail Just measn you can only have 3 servos max. Best to generate your own 5v rail from 12v also, as the 5v rail doesnt really have enough power (causes the servo the twitch)by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
throw out rods... now thay are damaged you cant do anytihng... damage is done. (unless you like the pattern of the rust in all your prints) Get real harded chrome plated rods. they are a lot harder and dont rust.by Dust - Reprappers
removed. not applicable after all.by Dust - Reprappers
The Y End stop is plugged into the min Y endstop plug on the ramps? not the max plug?by Dust - Controllers
ITWhiz have you read ? You have 5 wire Unipolar steppers, and standard pololu Bipolar drivers.... You cant just use the ouside 4 connectors as the centre taps join the two coils together inside the motor ie " A 5 lead motor has both centre taps connected, so re-wiring them to a 4 lead version requires at least opening the motor, if it can be done at all. " I cant see how this ever workeby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
CCT diagram shows two fuses and a voltage regulator. I would start with those f2 is under the board... f1 is on top between the connectorsby Dust - Controllers
#define MAX_FEEDRATE_X 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Y 200 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Z 200 is so slow!! 200/60 = 3.33mm/s with delta you need to change X,Y and Z to a higher value try 20000 (333 mm/sec) #define MAX_FEEDRATE_X 20000 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Y 20000 #define MAX_FEEDRATE_Z 20000 Also eeprom tends to override firmware setting so make sure thats you update eeprom setting.by Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
your google fu is weak my friend... (they have removed the image, the rotters) Fromby Dust - General
Reprint... its still going to be a thermal plastic.. the instant you try to use it as EDM its going to heat up and melt and deform..by Dust - General
also that link is not real jhead, its nothing like a jhead, its a peice of china crap Its actuly more of a e3d hot end clone... not a jhead in any way shape or form. If you want a jhead get a jhead from or if you really want a e3d get a real one from Dont wast your money, hair, sanity and reals of filament on that china clone. You also need to change your extruder block and your hotby Dust - Reprappers
Yes this is know as ftdigate, where they made a lot of people very angry by bricking all clone devices with a windows driver update. see get the tool, reset the USB PID (needs linux) or also linuxby Dust - Reprappers
Yes heated bed is only thing on 11amp cct. But be warned, the 11amp polyfuse is only rated for 16v, you will need to replace thatby Dust - Developers
kman it sounds like you have a loose wire going to your steppers. No endstop will stop the motors moving in a -ve direction, and they can alway be cheked with a m119 command to the printer You could configure the printer with min and max endstops, in wich case yes it wouldnt move at all, but this is not a common configuation, once again m119 will tell you all.by Dust - Controllers
you need to set the z endstop as a z max endstop as its at your max end of movement. then the printer just knows it at max and when you start to print it will move it back to 0. Also means you have to have you Z distance acuratly put into your firmware.. you have to phiscaly move the Z endstop over one plug to use the max z endstop on a rampsby Dust - General
You probbly have to power your servo seperatly.. as it can use to much power and cause a brown outby Dust - General
from what I can understand on the website it runs custom firmware Sadly since I can find no cct diagram or a pin assignment.. It will take some dedicated person some time to trace it out and document it.by Dust - Controllers
I cant see any microstepping jumpers... do you have 3 jumpers under the pololu modules to set 1/16 microstepping?by Dust - Controllers
when you accidently home z, you will be thankfull of a z endstop As driving your hotend threw your print bed is an expensive mistake So I will advise that you have a Z endstop if nothing else.by Dust - General
Weird board... If google is working its this board ? Wich states its a Arm cortex M3 at 100mhz Marlin will not run on this.. (there is a port on going for arm boards, but I dont know how they are going, they probbly also have never heard of this board) Wish they would document things a little better, looks intersting, but with no doumentation, its a lot of work to get this runningby Dust - Controllers
Your right the resistance quadurples... not sure where I got doubles from but the orriginal statement is still correct, the power is the same heated beds are two resitors in series or parallel depending on 12v/24v hookup 12v is in parallel, 24v is in series Cant remember actul values but let say its 2.2 Ω per 'resistor' so 12v with resistors in parallel 1/(1/2.2Ω + 1/2.2Ω ) = 1.1 Ω aby Dust - Reprappers
Beds heating up faster with 24v is a myth! *(if your using one of these 12/24v pcb heaters) with 24v bed the resistance is (edit: doubled ) quadrupled so the wattage remains the same (ie the rate at wich it heats up) If you do find it heats up quicker than on 12v. your 12v supply had insusficient current or your wires were not thick enough. You can of course get 24v beds that are higher wattaby Dust - Reprappers