Quotethefrog Quoten8bot Quotethefrog Don't know if this got linked already ... My extruder is down to 160g with steel gears and the Sanyo Denki Nema 17 Motor That pancake extruder is amazing. I bet that would fit on my delta effector. Does it have enough force to push filament through a .25mm nozzle? Where did you source the motor/what are the specs? It has 0,383 N with the 13/60 gearing. Thaby dwonh - General
This is exact thread I was looking for. I am also working on design light direct drive extruder for my H-bot printer. I got 14HR05-0504S pancake stepper in my hand already. The trouble I have now is decide gear ratio and find appropriate gears. I'm not sure how much reduction is needed for 0.7 Kgf.cm stepper to drive 1.75 filament through 0.35 nozzle. I'll share the progress of my extruder herby dwonh - General
Unfortunately, it doesn't work either. Can I see photo of your printer? Where do you have endstops and where is your home position?by dwonh - General
Thanks for sharing. I diff yours with mine, I could not see any particular changes. I guess your codes outdated one, Which version do you use? (1.0.2 is the latest release) I'm still frustrating.by dwonh - General
I don't think changing MAX_POS & MIN_POS value will solve the problem. My problem is that print head moves opposite direction while Y homing, and it can not be solved by changing any value in configuration.h. Because movement of print head in Hbot(or CoreXY) is not just by one motor like conventional cartesian system. If I change, for example, INVERT_Y_DIR value, printer will not act as expeby dwonh - General
I did try, but printer acts strangely. It moves a little at the current position and stops. Do you still have that configuration now?by dwonh - General
Actually, I saw it while I'm googling. I don't understand why MAX_POSs and MIN_POSs have same value. I did same configuration except that and SD stuff.by dwonh - General
Hello, I got a issue in implementing Y-MAX endstop on my H-bot printer. (pls see attached picture) Current physical configuration has Y-endstop on top left corner, where should be Y-MAX position. I tried to set up as Y-MAX, but to fail with all efforts. With M119 command, I confirmed Y-MAX endstop triggered correctly. If I set Y_HOME_DIR value to 1 for setting it as Y_MAX, printer moves head toby dwonh - General
Thank you normw For some reason, I found unused endstops are triggered. After I fix it, I can use G29 command without erroneous behavior. And I come to know probing point in Marlin firmware IS NOT meant extruder points, but probe points configured by offsets.by dwonh - General
I have my own DIY printer, of 150 x 150 bed size. Recently I attached induction sensor which is same as Printrbot uses. I've confirmed sensor detect aluminum bed and finished wiring. Problem is when I issues G29 command, printer moves head to some point (neither of probe points I configured) and stops. (ex. start point X75 Y75 -> X0 Y75) And coordinate read from output is different from theby dwonh - General
I had same issue before, which turned out I made mistake in connecting crimp pin to cable terminal. Check out connectors with tester if you have one.by dwonh - General
Thank for reply. As for the debug window, I was silly not to find out toggle button. Anyway, I'm using 1920x1080 resolution, previous version allow adjust each menu panel but new version seems not. Maybe ignore and wait next update? Thanks.by dwonh - RepRap Host
I've updated repetier-host today. (win32/version 1.0.1) I got problem in UI on 'manual control' menu. Please check the attached screenshot. The my issues are: 1. Axis control icons are not fully visible, bottom parts are hidden by below menus. 2. I can not find(or enable) 'debug window', which shows a error & information message Does anybody give me a light on these? It seems that everythinby dwonh - RepRap Host
I moved to 'Ipad protection film' from kapton tape. Most of protection film comprised of two different kind sheet, you can peel off thinner vinyl like sheet which is too sticky for heat bed purpose. The remaining PET(I think) film is better than kapton tape in my experience. ABS sticks well and peel off by itself when bed temperature going town under 40 degree. I don't apply any aceton or ABS juiby dwonh - General
I'm not expert, from recent experience of building my own printer, Your motor is more than enough for most reprap printer. The specification of motor might be different by printer's design (moving bed or moving gantly along z-axis, direct drive extruder or geared, use bowden style or not, etc.) But I believe around 3kgf.cm is pretty much enough. I use 3.6 kgf.cm for 1.75 direct drive extruder,by dwonh - General
JohnSL, Thank you very much I believe that's what I wanted to know! I tried to search for long time in vain, but you save me.by dwonh - General
I'm doing calibration and fine tuning for my first DIY printer. The problem is whenever I try to print, printing job stops like it finishes all job successfully, but it isn't. It stops just some steps before finishing final layer. You can see the white circled area in the attached file. And also unfinished FPS status bar in the screenshot. I'm using Marlin and Repetier-host. And test file generby dwonh - General
Printing keep stops just before complete. I'm doing calibration and fine tuning for my first DIY printer. Whenever I try printing some test files, print process stops like it finishes all job, but it isn't. It stops just some steps before finishing final layer. You can see the white circled area in the attached file. And also unfinished FPS status bar in the screenshot. I'm using Marlin and Reby dwonh - Printing
jamesdanielv, Thank you so much, I have my first print successfully, after change code as you said. Your comment was very helpful for noob like me. One last question, I saw "z offset" menu on "printer setting->general" in slic3r I guess it it possible to use this value (like 8.69) instead of setting Z_MAX_POS value for same purpose? I'll try later but I'm afraid that nozzle might crash inby dwonh - General
jamesdanielv, Thanks. I'll try today. I thought it would be nicer if I can adjust those kind of settings in slic3r or repetier host and I believed it possilbe, but not. Anyway, another strange thing in configuration.h occurred to me. I see below settings are default, and does not make sense to me Strangely, there are no problem in using 3 axis at all. How come it is possible with all axis areby dwonh - General
Here is mechanical setting of my configuration.h ********************************************************************************************** // Disable max endstops for compatibility with endstop checking routine #if defined(COREXY) && !defined(DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS) #define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS #endif // For Inverting Stepper Enable Pins (Active Low) use 0, Non Inverting (Active Hiby dwonh - General
DaveS, I know there are some people have there z-endstop at the top. I just don't know how they configured in firmware or slic3r. Most of all, how to configure specific z-height as start point of print. besides adjusting endstop physically to set z=0 just above print bed, which is very difficult. Regards,by dwonh - General
So, there is no method adjust 'zero-point' in software? In that case, it is very strange because adjusting 'zero-point' would be much easier than screwing or relocating z-endstop physically.by dwonh - General
I've just finished building up my first diy 3d printer And last issue(I hope) remained to get my printer running. Z-end stop is located at the top of z-axis. And distance between print bed and tip of hotend at home position is little less than 120mm. I set Z_MAX_POS to 120 in configuration.h in marlin firmware. After leveling print bed, first layer of print should be 8.69mm (not z=0). Here is mby dwonh - General
cozmicray, The ball plunger is bad because too much friction against filament? I tested with new motor which is 1.5 times stronger than previous (3.6Kgf), only failed again. Drive gear is slipping when filament reaches near melting zone of hotend. Actually it shaves off the filament. I guess torque of motor is enough. I think I'd better go for spring hinged extruder, coz I don't know what to dby dwonh - General
cozmicray, Thank you for your kind reply. Extruder feeds filament well enough without hotend (extruder + bowden cable only). And when I push filament with hand directly through hotend(240C) it extrude ABS well, though it is tough. I made extruder based on qu-bd or Makerbot design, and use 'ball plunger' to push filament towards gear. It works quite well, it can pull filament with quite forceby dwonh - General
Thanks Cameron, Yes, I assume torque is the problem. But, 4~5 kgf*cm isn't overkill for 1.75mm filament? I saw qu-bd extruder motor is around 2.8kgf*cm. Design of my extruder is same as qu-bd's It is very hard to source over 3.5kgf*cm NEMA 17 motor here in Korea.by dwonh - General
Hello, I've been building my own 3d printer from the scratch. Now, I managed to build up everything and did filament extrusion test. Unfortunately is did not work well. Extruder alone seems to work well to see pull filament with quite a torque(subjectively of course) while holding filament with hand And as for the hotend, if I push filament with hand it extrudes ABS filament well. I was tryingby dwonh - General
Now I have studied little more, I believe mentioned can motor has limited motor speed (pps), not enough for extruder. I'll go for general NEMA hybrid motors.by dwonh - General
Thanks for quick opinion, jamesdanielv, I'm sure 1.8 degree stepper is more preferable, but small and light extruder is also desirable for me. The below is what I found today (Local vendor in Korea). The specification is: Rated Voltage: 12V Resistance: 65ohm Current per phase: 4 Unipolar Step angle: 7.5 Holding torque: 550 gf.cm (without gearbox, it is said) Detent torque: 150 gfcm Length: 3by dwonh - General